I have been reading and trying things for a while and I am stumped would like to get a straight answer. SO my rear window and wiper are non functional, the defrost DOES work and the sprayer also does work. When I use the key or the switch on the center console I hear a click in the rear hatch but nothing when I press up so the window wont roll down at all and I dont think the window is stuck down because then the defrost and sprayer shouldnt work. has anyone had this exact problem and if so what did you do to fix it.

 

I have to kick this to the top, my up date anyways. SO i have narrowed it down to either a relay, broken wire or the window control module in the rear hatch. I have un plugged the hatch sensor as its gone anyways and the dome light wont come on when the hatch is open but it does when i jump the switch. Anyways not the issue the ecu looks fine inside the circuit board and in the pinch point of the hatch some wires insulation is broken but no actual wires. I have seen a few of these threads and nobody ever posts the solution, does anyone have a full wire schematic from the front to back of truck i really need help on this one. I dont want to buy a new module from the auto wrecker just to have it not work. has ANYONE solved this and have a solution.

 

One must start some place. You need to find out just what is wrong Break out the Multimeter.

Have you checked that the fuses that supply power are intact and the sockets are tight.

30amp power fuse Blue wire 20amp wiper fuse Gray wire

As all power for all these things goes through the power window relay This has to be a solid state relay so it does not have the normal coil like a ice cube relay.

Is the motor good Have you tested that??

Is the hatch window regulator rusted fast from sitting unused??

If you have a bad rear window limit switch it will never work.

The defogger is a different circuit

Trying to troubleshoot this without the EWD is like fishing without a hook.

Tell us what you find out!!

 

Your problem is probably the wires running from the body to the door. Bet there is a break.

 

Could it possibly be mechanical? The rear window on my 98 had a block - there was a piece of metal in the rear hatch that was catching on the window and keeping it from rolling down. I think it is a bad design. I can't remember exactly what I did, but I shimmed something and it made enough clearance to get the window down. Granted, it did roll down about 2 inches before it got stuck so I know it was a physical clearance issue, but maybe something similar is happening with your window?

If you take off that back trim panel you'll be able to at least observe the window a little more closely. I'd check the wiring but if it all looks okay I would also check the physical window path.

 

panel is off, so far what I know is this.
-window motor is good and functional, rolls up and down with battery connection and also the window sensing switch does work as when i push it , it turns off the defrost. at the bend point of the hatch some wires insulation is broken but I cant find any wire that is actually broken just the insulation and I repaired those with tape. fuses seem good and also i have found out that the switch in the latch doesnt work but i think it only controls the rear dome light as when I jump it the dome light comes on so it seems to think the door is closed anyways. When I hit the switch to lower the window all I get is a click. When I do solve this I will share it seems like a common problem and the ones like mine never seem to have their solution posted.

 

Pull off wire harness cover between hatch and body, then try to stretch individual wires-any stretching indicates broken wire. Try the YELLOW wire first. Cut, strip, solder, tape.... that's what cured my issue. good luck and HAPPY ST. PATRICK'S DAY !

 

thanks, well further tests have shown that all the wires work at the harness end. however when the computer is plugged in almost all of the wires show constant power accept the grounds. so I ordered a new ecu off ebay (did not pay 850$ from the stealership) so hopefully that will solve my issue if not then its a really big problem.

 

well low and behold... the relay was not the problem, so no ideas or leads at the moment

 

Get some help to test this?

If your safety switches are not working it will not work.



have you checked that the switches work with a meter?

Window lock not on or switch defective??

When installing your new window relay did you clean the plug connections real well.

Just because the window limit switch shutoff the defrost does not mean you might not have a problem in the connection to the window circuit

Check that all the grounds are clean and tight??

Remember things can be corroded you are unable to see with your eyes.

Good Luck

 

I think you need to trace the signals as described in the Manual Operation part of the Sytem Outline in the wiring diagram below. This is off a 2002, but it is identical to my paper '99 EWD, so I figure it will work for you.

 

Do you still have the condition of 12V+ at all the terminals or did the relay resolve that?

 

havent checked that yet, am pretty exhausted about it HATE wiring problems. Also I have a rear window relay for sale haha

 

Had the same issues on my 01 And just repaired it. It was a broken wire in the boot that goes from the body to the hatch. Had to pull the cargo light out, remove the panel, pull head liner down and unplug the harness going to the hatch, then remove the harness from the body, pull back the boot and inspect the wires, should be a broken yellow wire. Hope this helps you I was stumped when it happened to me.

 

Yup, this is what mine looked like when I pulled the boot back between the door and the body . This is a 2001.

 

So did you repair it in place? This is next on my to do list.