While installing my rear 21.5" led bar. I had to remove the trim on the driver side. And while running the wires I found rust on the rear driver side fender under the rear sear right in the corner. It looks old, as I have only owned the truck for 1 year. My plan is to cut it out , clean it up and weld a new piece. Now some people are saying to glue a new piece ? My fenders are coated with 3m rubberized undercoat. Before coating I did not notice any rust on the outside. The passanger side seems good. Although I haven't checked under the carpet. You can see that the rust is staining the undercoat in brownish. I don't know if it can rust that bad within a year.








I was thinking of buying new panel cutting it out and welding it back in.

http://parts.westborotoyota.com/part...iagram=8414505

But I mechanic friend said he has metal we can use and it's not necessary to buy that.

How should we approach this problem?

And here's my led bar.

 

Unless it's actually rusted through you can hit it with a wire wheel to remove most rust, then some naval jelly, then primer and paint and it should be fine. If you want/need to replace metal I usually cut a piece of 20 gauge slightly larger than the size I'll need and tack weld a point (to cleanly ground metal around the area you cut out), working my way around the piece and tack welding as I form it, beating with a hammer to approximate curves if necessary. Fill any overlaps/seams in the metal with seam sealer and then paint.

You can also use masonry mesh tack welded as a backing for fiberglass and bondo.

Oil undercoat this truck with bar and chain oil from an HVLP gun or one of these - http://www.kellsportproducts.com/undercoatingguns.html - every year and it will give you many years of rust free goodness.

 

Just don't get the "Fluid Film" rustproofing on any rubber.......it will soften and warp it.

 

Great tips guys. Thanks a lot. I actually have a gallon of fluid film sitting in my garage. I was thinking of putting por15 after I fix it on the trunk and wherever else I can. Then fluid film on top.

Iwhat is naval jelly ?

 

Diluted, thickened phosphoric acid. POR (Paint Over Rust) will supposedly flake off if you paint clean metal from what people on here have experienced. I have a buddy who used it on his de-flaked but still rusty frame and it didn't last well on that either. Wouldn't use it.

 

If you live in any area that uses winter chemicals the liquid brine is brutal it can rust after a few weeks.

Keep an eye on the fuel and brake lines.

I have to agree if it is not to the point you can push through with a screw driver clean and repaint .

Also the rubber undercoating sometimes allows moisture to get trapped behind it causing rust .

 

make sure you are inspecting that wire for your light bar since it is routed through a pinch point

 

I read if you use por15 prep products. Even on clean metal it should bond. I live in NJ, I believe they only lay sand and salt if it snows.

The wire for the light has plenty of play in that area. The gab between trunk lid and the body is enough for that wire. But I'll keep an eye on it for sure.

Shouldnt fluid film be a nice barrier for salt and water ?

I agree also on the rubber undercoat. I regret doing it lesson learned the hard way. Any tips on removing it from the fender wells

 

I have found gasket remover and a putty knife but it is messy .

I have also used a air hammer with a very wide chisel blade .