Diesel_Dog

Any rear window experts out there?

Bought a new to me 97 4runner last month and the rear power window doesn't work. I spent the weekend Searching and troubleshooting, but couldn't find a solution.

Troubleshooting so far:

- window lock is off
- rear wiper and 3rd break light works.
- looked for broken wires and couldn't find any
- truck didn't come with the master key so can't test the rear lock up/down
- When I press down on the rear window switch nothing happens
- pressing up gets a click (in the relay?)
- took the back panned off and used a battery to jump the motor: it works!
- the up switch will raise the window after I manually (jump) it down
- took the switch apart, ohm meter told me that the down wasn't working, tweaked the switch and its working now
- the up and down when tested with the ohm meter work
- tested the switch plug. Found 5 pins. + and - for the light, + for the up, + for the down and a shared - for up and down
- the + for up has 11.5v
- the - for down has only 2.3v

I'm thinking that my problem is the 2.3v for the down circuit? I don't know what would cause this? Bad relay perhaps? Anyone want to break out the multimeter and test the #5 pin (one in the middle) at the switch end for voltage?

Any ideas on how the switch and or electrical system works for for the rear window? I don't have a lot of experience with electrical stuff, so I can only assume that it's so type of voodoo going on in the blue electrical box in the back door.

Thanks for help or insight that you can provide!

Diesel_Dog

I found this great resource that helped me in my troubleshooting above
http://pnw4runners.com/tech/2nd_gen_...w/POWER_WI.PDF

It has wiring diagrams and information on what the different pins connect to / do. Unfortunately there isn't any info on voltage of the different wires or how the relays work / which one is for what.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Just what do you need to know?/

Are all the safety switches in the closed position.

If one of those switches is not working you will have no power to the motor in the down position.

Maybe you should try running a jumper from the switch pin #3 to a good ground .Left door post comes to mind!

See if that makes it work that will bypass the lock switch

You should have battery voltage at both pins 5 and 6 in the closed position

If you need more help PM me I might not see the thread.

Diesel_Dog

Tried putting a good ground to it and that didn't help the down operation. I guess what I need to know is if 2.3v for the down wire is normal? If not what would cause this? Bad relay perhaps?

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

No it's not normal, take the switch back apart and clean the contacts it should have the same resistence as the up. Which means the same voltage output also, in case that's not clear.

Diesel_Dog

I've got the switch to work (first tried to clean it and then I had to bend the copper plate inside to make better contact). When i jump the circuits with a short section of wire, i get the same results as when the switch is in. So if 2.3v isn't right for the down wire, what would cause this?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You are doing this trouble shooting with a fully charged battery or the battery charger hooked up.

I have seen some that were picky about that.

If your only reading 2.3 volts something is wrong as both up and down should have battery voltage .

If it was the relay most I have seen fail completely and do not work at all. you can check the readings at the relay

but the fact the wipers work makes me think it is else where not that it might not be a bad connection at the really plug

it could be a loose connection or a corroded connection. if the switch is pitted and worn it will not carry the voltage. Now this could be anyplace from in the hatch to any connection.

sometimes this corrosion just can`t be seen by looking needs to be cleaned with contact or electrical cleaner.

Did you try jumping from pin 5 of the harness connector to a good ground does that make it work?

Really hard to trouble shoot electrical problems online

y2kltdsport

iTrader: (1)

have you opened up the wire cover that runs from truck to rear hatch? open it up look closely for partially broken wires ,you may have a wire ready to fully break ,but still being partially held together by the plastic wire casing, ask me how I know, very common problem , get in there wiggle some wires and find the culprit, then get out the soldering gun

akaphilly

mine didnt work when i got my 4runner.. i replaced the the little relay box in the hatch, it worked for 3 months. then started opening on its own. i unhooked the wires to the motor n just use a drill battery now.

Diesel_Dog

As a follow up, I left it alone for about a year but decided last night I was going to do something about the rear window not working.

I took a long wire and jammed it in the switch (down wire connection) and then put the other end of the wire into the plug in the hatch. It worked! So this tells me that there is a broken wire someplace. Well I took all the panels off, tracing the wire and 2 hours later I found the broken wire. It wasn't in the usual spot between the hatch and body, rather it was where the wire loops from the inside of the hatch to the control box.

If anyone is reading this for future reference, the down wire was light green with a black stripe (97 3.4 auto SR5). Look for broken wires between the body and hatch as well as right behind the panel that the control box (the wires make a 180 degree bend to route into the hatch.

This has been bugging me for over a year, I'm happy that I was finally able to figure it out.