Clifton

I am posting this in a new topic so the origianl post this started in doesn't get off topic. Here's an old link. Please go here before asking. Alot of your question might get answered.
I could get the first one to work but it seems to now I added another link to the same.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ight=3vz+turbo

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/searc...der=descending

Victor, No I never dynoed it. But with 36"s it was easily as fast or faster than a stock 3.4 Taco on.

I will dig up some old emails I sent people that wanted to know more.

Clifton

Waterboy

I saw someone ask the question on the other thread but didn't see an answer. How is changing the sparkplugs? As far as that goes how is the rest of the maintainance issues? Who ever thought that the stock Toyota exhaust manifold would be good for anything. You mentioned the reliability of the system but how much of a DD is it? Thanks.

Victor

If I could amass the components how hard would this conversion be? I have MSD right here in town and a couple of buddies that work there so I think I can get that somewhat cheaply. MSD boxes show up at the swap meets all the time here and all it takes is a drive to their place and they will repair/replace it on the spot. I'm assuming the modification to the exhaust manifold to be one of the hardest to perform but what other problems did you run into?

OneTrickToy

Okay... I want your Z's..... I'll trade you my '88 Z31 NA 2+2 for your 71.... what do you think??? lol..

You on HybridZ? If you aren't..... then you should check those guys out. They do a lot of swaps and definately know their Z stuff.

Churnd

I bet the new head studs from DOA would make this turbo a worry free possibility for anyone else who wants to do it and not worry about problems it might cause on the headgaskets.

Clifton - I'd also like to see a close up on how exactly you did the manifold.

joshik

the turbo is bitchin! i want it for my 3.0

but, whered he get that bumper from? is it custom fabbed? its sweet!

tv4184

Is that turbo setup possible for the 3.4 engine? How would I be able to do it for around that price? That is a great mod for the price that you did it for.

Clifton

The plugs aren't much harder to change. I cut part of the inner fender away for the exhaust so there is more room. As far a hwo much of a DD is it. I do tile so I need it to carry tools, I drive all over the valley. Sometimes 20 miles a day sometimes 50 a day just depends on were the job is.

[B]

DOA heads studs obviously aren't needed, it's already worry free.

[QUOTE]"I'm assuming the modification to the exhaust manifold to be one of the hardest to perform but what other problems did you run into?"[QUOTE]

I didn't run into any problem. It's not the first car I've turboed so I had everything planned out and most stuff pre fabbed and bolted on if possible (intercooler, oil pan, oil lines fuel, electric, ect) and did it over the weekend.

[B]

Thanks but I've got an 88 Z31 turbo and a few other turbo S30's already. I'm on HybridZ everyday, great site.

Anyone wanting to do this should have some knowledge about forced induction and some fabrication skills. There are numerous books on turbos, if anyone is thinking about it I would pick up atleast one. Turbo placement is the hardest part in the crammed engine compartment. After you get it mounted it's easy. Taco's/5VZ's have alot more room for some reason. It would be easier on one of those.

I will post 2 long emails to 2 different people that I had talked to a while ago. I also added a pic of the manifold to my truck folder.

Clifton

I know the pan is an easy thing to do, it is just a
bitch trying to get at it with the IFS.

I have an ARC welder, which I will be retiring for a
MIG pretty soon, and my fabbing capabilities are
somewhat limited, so if I have to do anything complex,
my friend Roger Brown (4Crawler) is nearby and can
help. I know this is a serious undertaking. Probably
my most involved custom fab job so far was to make
brackets and bolt up a York air compressor
piggybacking off the stock AC compressor on my 22RE
4runner. Also when I bought my 85 4runner last year
bone stock, it came with an auto tranny. I swapped
that out for a dual cased 5speed, an entire one man
job. I pretty much rebuilt everything on this truck in
the past 10 months. Engine, tranny, exhaust, axles,
interior, bumpers, suspension, etc. I know this isn't
a turbo project, but I think the experience will help
a lot. Number one thing is that I do not ruin my
pickup's freshly rebuilt V6. As long as I follow your
lead, I am confident it will work.


So I feel that I should easily be able to do this
project given enough preparation time, reading,
guidance (thanks to you), and patience. I sure am
learning a hell of a lot about turbocharging systems,
which I find to be ingenious.

Kurt

--- siragla@attglobal.net wrote:
> I'm running 2 additional injectors. Go here and look
> at there EIC.
> http://sdsefi.com/
> Yes you have to pull the oil pan. This is one of the
> easier things.
> Adding a turbo isn't like bolting on headers. It's
> kind of a pain in the
> ass. The onlt way to run it into the block would be
> to drill and tap it
> (3/8NPT) but you would still need to pull it to get
> the shavings out. I
> have a stainless heat sheil with header wrap on it
> so I don't have heat
> problems. I did cook a plug wire that I didn't have
> wrapped good. I
> bought mandrel bends for the plumbing. Summit and
> Jegs carries it. The
> TB pipe is 2" steel. I cut a peice of 2.5" tube and
> narrowed it to the
> same size as the TB inlet and welded it to the 2"
> bend. It doesn't look
> too nice but It had to be that way due to space.
> The shiny silver pipe
> is aluminum. I have the injectors mounted in this
> one. You can get steel
> injector bungs but I had aluminum ones. Turbo timers
> are not nessacery,
> just don't run it hard before shutting it down. I
> have the injector
> controller in the glove box along with the timing
> controller knob. I
> have a pillar mounted boost gauge but the other
> gauges are stock. I
> don't have a boost controller as I just run the
> stock wastegate set up.
> You will also need to weld a ring around the ends of
> the tubes were the
> hoses connect, like whats on the TB and and
> iarfilter box. It doesn't
> have to be much just something raised. You don't
> have to, but it will
> keep the hoses from from coming off under boost.
> You have a welder and can fabricate flanges and such
> right? Just asking
> as this is a little more involved than welding up a
> set of sliders or
> setting up gears.
> Clifton
>
> Kurt Gensheimer wrote:
>
> > Clifton,
> >
> > Thanks! Those pics help a lot. Damn, when you said
> it
> > is tight in there, you weren't kidding. Have you
> had
> > any issues with your brake lines boiling? They
> look
> > awful close.
> >
> > When you say additional injectors, are you now
> running
> > 12 instead of 6 or just a few extra plumbed into
> the
> > existing lines? I need help understanding exactly
> what
> > you mean by additional injectors.
> >
> > Also, for the oil return line, when you say pan, I
> am
> > assuming you mean oilpan...˟˟˟˟, I gotta pull
> that? Is
> > there not any way that I can plumb the oil return
> line
> > into an existing unused line in the block?
> >
> > The air intake tube that plugs into the throttle
> body,
> > what diameter and composition is it and where did
> you
> > get it? The tube looks custom bent and flange
> looks
> > custom welded. Am I right?
> >
> > Also interested in seeing your interior. Are you
> > running a fuel pressure gauge, boost, h20 temp,
> > vacuum, etc? Do you have a turbo timer and where
> did
> > you put your AIC and boost controller (if these
> are in
> > the cab)?
> >
> > --- siragla@attglobal.net wrote:
> > > I didn't take any pics of the oil retun. You can
> see
> > > it in the oil feed pics, it's the red
> > > hose. I used multi purpose 5/8" hose from NAPA.
> Just
> > > pull the pan and weld on a peice of
> > > 5/8" tube. I bent mine up for a better angle. I
> also
> > > did this ahead of time and caped it
> > > off to save time the weekend I did the swap. You
> can
> > > use 1/2" if theat's what you outlet is
> > > , I used one off a Chrysler though.
> > > That's it. If you need any more pics let me
> know.
> > > Clifton
> >

The aic is an additional injector controler. With this you can retain the
factory drivablilty off boost and stil pass emissions. It only comes on
under boost and adds fuel. I am still using the stock ignition and efi but
added an MSD boost retard to reterd the timing under boost wich is
nessacary if you want to run more than 5 psi and have it survive. I have
since replaced the 2 fuel pumps for one larger Walboro intank pump. You
could get a used Supra pump for around $40 on Ebay though. I turboed a 4
cyl Nissan hardbody I once had and learned that real small turbos on heavy
under powered trucks isn't the best. The turbo will glow form the small
turbine housing and at cruise you will be so spooled up from the smalll
turbine that the slightest extra peddle pressure will send you deep into
full boost this comes at the cost of higher back pressure. I used the GN
turbo 1. Because it has a larger turbine wheel than any other T3, I wanted
the least amount of back pressure. If you want less lag the Nissan 280zx
turbos still have the .63 A/R but with a smaller turbine wheel. They have
a 60 trim compressor, a little larger than the Chrysler stuff and probably
Volvo too. 2. The GN turbo has the downpipe exit pointing down taking up
less space than most desings. Chryslers are similiar but too small.
Nissan's will require a sharp 90* coming out of the turbo. Toyota use
there own design. I don't know the flow and I've pulled quit a few Garret
turbos apart and I'm famliliar with them. 3. GN turbos have S trim T4
compressors. While not huge they do flow more than any T3. You can pick up
used HKS AIC's on ebay for around $200 or get a new SDS EIC(same thing)
for about $300http://www.sdsefi.com/ It isn't that hard to do if you are
compfortable fabricating stuff .Space is very tight in there. Placement of
the turbo was the most critical. I bolted the inlet flange to the turbo
and welded legs to that and bolted it to the head so the flange and turbo
were securely in place before I did anything. You will have to have the
manifold surfaced after welding as it will warp pretty good. You will need
enough room next to the brake master so it won't hit with engine torque,
enough room so you are not touching the plastic valve cover and enough
room to change plug wires and the cap. The compressor inlet must line up
pretty close to the AFM too. If you decide to do it keep me posted an let
me know if you have any more questions. If you use a GN get the 86-87 the
earlier ones have a bolt on deal on the front to mount a carb. I attached
a pic of the manifold.
Clifton
Kurt Gensheimer wrote:

Clifton

These are to show the placemant and how close it all is. This is the only hard part./ Making sure there
is enough room. Dist cap, valve cover. These to will always stay the same. The master cylinder
clearance will change from engine movement. The pipe going into the throttle body is also really tight.
You don't want it to touch the turbine outlet. The wastegate rod will move torward the valve cover as it
opens so 1/4" clearnce may become 1/16" at full boost. I bolted the flange to the turbo and bolted
tabs to the head at 2 different places( you can see them in the manifold pic I sent you before). I
positioned the turbo were I wanted it and welded square tube to the flange and tabs before even
cutting the manifold up. This is the easiest as the turbo flange will now be fully secure. If it moves just a
little you may have cleasance issues. I then cut the hole in the man. and used 2 peices of 2" pipe weld
elbows (avalible at industrial pipe suppliers) and tacked everthing in place, Then I welded what I could
on the truck and checked if anything had moved. There should be 4 pics.


The aic is an additional injector controler. With this you can retain the
factory drivablilty off boost and stil pass emissions. It only comes on
under boost and adds fuel. I am still using the stock ignition and efi but
added an MSD boost retard to reterd the timing under boost wich is
nessacary if you want to run more than 5 psi and have it survive. I have
since replaced the 2 fuel pumps for one larger Walboro intank pump. You
could get a used Supra pump for around $40 on Ebay though. I turboed a 4
cyl Nissan hardbody I once had and learned that real small turbos on heavy
under powered trucks isn't the best. The turbo will glow form the small
turbine housing and at cruise you will be so spooled up from the smalll
turbine that the slightest extra peddle pressure will send you deep into
full boost this comes at the cost of higher back pressure. I used the GN
turbo 1. Because it has a larger turbine wheel than any other T3, I wanted
the least amount of back pressure. If you want less lag the Nissan 280zx
turbos still have the .63 A/R but with a smaller turbine wheel. They have
a 60 trim compressor, a little larger than the Chrysler stuff and probably
Volvo too. 2. The GN turbo has the downpipe exit pointing down taking up
less space than most desings. Chryslers are similiar but too small.
Nissan's will require a sharp 90* coming out of the turbo. Toyota use
there own design. I don't know the flow and I've pulled quit a few Garret
turbos apart and I'm famliliar with them. 3. GN turbos have S trim T4
compressors. While not huge they do flow more than any T3. You can pick up
used HKS AIC's on ebay for around $200 or get a new SDS EIC(same thing)
for about $300http://www.sdsefi.com/ It isn't that hard to do if you are
compfortable fabricating stuff .Space is very tight in there. Placement of
the turbo was the most critical. I bolted the inlet flange to the turbo
and welded legs to that and bolted it to the head so the flange and turbo
were securely in place before I did anything. You will have to have the
manifold surfaced after welding as it will warp pretty good. You will need
enough room next to the brake master so it won't hit with engine torque,
enough room so you are not touching the plastic valve cover and enough
room to change plug wires and the cap. The compressor inlet must line up
pretty close to the AFM too. If you decide to do it keep me posted an let
me know if you have any more questions. If you use a GN get the 86-87 the
earlier ones have a bolt on deal on the front to mount a carb. I attached
a pic of the manifold.
Clifton
Kurt Gensheimer wrote:

darth_yota

do you have anymore pics of this