can it be done. i have seen 285s and a 1 " body lift, and some trimming. i have just spent the last 2 hrs searching and got nothin., i did find they actually give more like 2". so.... i really want to go with these spring for the nice ride and towing capabilty. i just wanna know your opinions on it. i keep on the streets most the time so i dont flex out much.
thanks guys and gals
oh yea its a 99 4wd 4runner

 

I had the PP springs with HD billies. it is actually about 1.5-1.75" of lift. i was running 265/75/16 no problem. I have a larger setup with 285's and will need a 1" BL to avoid rubbing w/out trimming

 

I'm running 285/75R16 BF Goodrich Mud Terrains on stock wheels with a 2 1/2" Daystar coil spacer lift. I rub on the upper A arms and on the frame when turning lock-to-lock on flat pavement. I have to take it easy off road so I don't tear anything up. The front and rear tires both rub on the insides of the wheel wells at full stuff.

Aftermarket wheels with slightly less backspacing would solve my upper A arm and frame rubbing issues. I tried some wheel spacers that did the job but made my steering wheel shake like crazy on the freeway so I took them off. The off road rubbing would require quite a bit of cutting and pounding to eliminate. I'm just not ready to do that yet...

Bottom line: Rubbing will definitely be an issue. Especially on stock wheels.

 

i have 16 x 8 wheels with plenty of backspace. did either of you trim at all. i have 265/75/16 no and they dont rub even at full stuff

 

265/75's won't rub at full stuff. 285/75's are MUCH larger and WILL rub. I have 2.25" of suspension lift and a 1" Body Lift and I still rub at times on half-turns with any kind of a bump or dip.

You need at least 3" to run 285's. Even with 3", you still need some aftermarket wheels or Land Cruiser 16x8 wheels and then you still have to pound on the pinch weld.

 

most people with 285s rub sometime and somewhere, no matter how much suspension lift they have. to say that you could not run 285s with PP coils is absurd, it can absolutely be done and very probable.

the rubbing you might get on the a-arm and frame will be a result of the 285s and no IFS lift will cure that rubbing, its the fact that you have 285s on a 7" wheel with too much backspacing.

1.5" is plenty to clear 285s. pound the pinch weld and it should solve most of the rubbing. just cyce the suspension andl have some good scisors ready for plastic trimming

 

I have the pp springs, and the 265/75's easily fit. Personally, if I decided to go to 285's, I would get a 1" body lift first.

I am planning on going with a 1" BL and getting a more aggressive 265/75..

 

Listen, before you go off calling someone absurd, you need to count to ten and take a few deep breaths before you do something stupid like that - again...

1. Fact - PP Springs give 1.5-1.75" of lift.
2. Fact - I have 2.25" of suspension lift. Before I put my body lift on, my 285's rubbed like a bitch on ANY half-turn with ANY kind of front suspension movement.
3. To fix that, I added a 1" BL, and I still need to pound the pinch weld in order to cure all the rubbing. I don't rub on-road, but I do off-road.
4. If you would have read the posts, then you would know that he already has 16x8 aftermerket wheels. With aftermarket wheels, he'll more than likely have less than the 4.5" of backspacing that I have, which will magnify his rubbing issues.
5. If he's going to run some street or AT tires w/ONLY PP springs, he'll need to pound the hell out of the pinch weld and remove some plastic at the firewall as a minimum. If he's going to run some tires w/ larger lugs or if he even thinks about going off the pavement with it, then he's going to need more than 1.5" to prevent rubbing w/ 285's.
6. RT - don't call someone absurd when they're answering your 20+/- PM's about suspension stuff and paint, etc, and doing you favors by selling you stuff at cost. That's called biting the hand that feeds you and eventually, if you do it enough, you'll starve.

 

For the money, Andy's TRD setup is THE way to go. Period. The money the PP setup costs and new shocks is more or less the same as the TRD.The ride is much better and you have more usable flex. I would suggest a 265.76.16 if you don't want a BL or different wheels. That would be my suggestion with either lift.(i have had both with 265/75's and 285s).
If you want to run a 285 a be happy, then take Andy's advice and save yourself a lot of time and headache. the real world testing has already been done for you.

 

absurd was not directed to you Andy, give me a break. it was no personal attack. i answered his question without even reading your response. ill go down the numbers...

1) i would agree to that, never had the coils but seems to be the consesus.
2) agreed, like i said in my post, most people with any amount of susp lift rub with their 285s and stock wheels. some more and less than others.
3) body lifts help, but pounding the hell out of the pinch weld is absolutely necessary. my roomate has 3" OME and 2" body and his 285s still rubbed the pinch weld. again, its a wheel issue, not a lift.
4) i disagree with you on this, respectfully as always. less backspacing seems like it would push the tire away from the pinch weld.
5) maybe, maybe not, thats the whole point of this discussion. we have both stated our opinions. steve ran 285 MT/Rs with aftermarket wheels and only 2". its not the lift that makes the difference, the extra 0.5" he had didnt prevent rubbing. and now he has 315s with only 3" lift while most have 285s with 3" lift...anything is possible, its a matter of how much work you want to do. this is what i was trying to relay in my original message.
6) wow, i am upset you took this personal. ill say again, i was not referring to your post when i said absurd. and i didnt mean absurd in an irrational or ignorant way. i should have used close-minded or pessimistic. i am not biting your hand. i am very respectful of every opinion on this board and everyone in my life (especiall edlers ). please reconsider your emotions now that youve seen my perspective.

 

Sorry I took it that way then. No harm done.


OEM wheels are 16x7 with 4.375" of backspacing. Tech 1's are 16x8 with 4.25" of backspacing - 0.125" less. However, with an added 1" of width + 0.125" of less backspacing, the wheel sticks out an extra 1.125" beyond where the OEM wheel was. This increases the "lever arm" effect on the suspension and also lengthens the pivot arm of the steering assembly. With 16x8's and 4.5" of backspacing, the wheel sticks out 0.25" less. More backspacing (4.5") sucks the wheel in closer to the frame, reducing the effective pivot arm, and thereby causing mroe rub on the frame and less on the pinch weld.

Steve not only pounded the pinch weld, but he was also running different upper a-arms AND he cut the lower part of the fender to get the 35's to fit with only 3" of lift.

 

My 265/75 destination mt's rubbed on the pinch weld at full stuff with about half steer. I have the pp coils and 16x8 4.5" backspaced wheels. I also think that you would need either a BL or major trimming and/or pounding to fit the 285's with the pp coils.

 

thanks for the help guys

 

hmm... what about this only 1 " bl and trimming with no rubbing even at full stuff!!!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/fender-trimming-limited-w-pics-16315/

 

When I had the PP 1" springs they had anything but nice ride quality. They were stiff as...well....they were stiff!

 

Sorry to dig up a past post, but how is the ride with PP +1" springs. I am looking to redo my suspension, my SAW's are was too stiff, I feel everything. I want to keep my ~1.5 to 2" of lift, but want a better street ride.

If I go with the tundra spings and no spacers they yield about 1.5 to 2" right and would the ride be better than the PP's?

Also my rears are a bit stiff, maybe the OME 906's? What lift do they yield?

As far as shocks go, bilsteins are pretty harsh? What are the recommended shocks all around for a non-harsh ride that doesn't feel every bump, but isn't super soft and floaty.