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wberry85 1991 Pickup build

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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 08:47 AM
  #81  
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I realized I never posted a pic of when I bought the truck. Here it is with just some 33's and a 3" body lift/cranked t bars.





We have come a long way lol
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Old Aug 9, 2015 | 08:34 PM
  #82  
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It's looking really good. Makes me almost want to bed line mine lol
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Old Aug 15, 2015 | 11:49 AM
  #83  
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New light bar for $35 on amazon. Works awesome and very bright. Sure beats $250 like some people are asking. Sturdy aluminum housing and good hardware. Seems like a winner. We will see if it affects cooling...




35's get here Monday.
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Old Aug 17, 2015 | 01:56 PM
  #84  
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Thats more like it! Probably gonna suck til I get 5.29's though lol


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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 05:40 PM
  #85  
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You have been mighty busy my friend. Your truck has taken on a whole new life. Looks like a sick crawler. Mad props to you. Truck envy for sure.
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Old Aug 23, 2015 | 07:51 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by Back to the Future
You have been mighty busy my friend. Your truck has taken on a whole new life. Looks like a sick crawler. Mad props to you. Truck envy for sure.
Thanks man! I appreciate that.


Well since Davez is taking over a month to build me a front driveshaft , and 2wd wheeling isnt very productive, I have been working on fine tuning these leafs. Took some poser shots in the yard to make sure the 35's arent rubbing and I was pretty unhappy with the amount of rear flex I have.
















I am pretty happy with the front flex, since it is flexing the full length of shock travel that I have, but the rear flex isnt so great. I am nowhere close to the bumpstops at full stuff. Its drooping ok but the spring seem too stiff for enough uptravel, maybe bc there is so little weight in the back end. Could be bc my shackle angle is almost vertical in the back? So I can start by moving my front spring perch back a little to get closer to 45* shackle angle in the rear, or take some leafs out, or both. What do the experts have to say?

Last edited by wberry85; Oct 23, 2019 at 04:24 PM.
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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 02:07 PM
  #87  
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Broke my fuel sending unit today

The steel line was rusted so bad it was paper thin. Was taking my bed off and barely tapped it and it just fell apart. I guess its better to discover that now than on the trail. Went ahead and ordered a whole new sending unit. Hope the bolts come out easy.


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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 03:46 PM
  #88  
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When I pulled my truck out of the barn I had to replace the whole system. Tank, fuel pump, hanger, sending unit and fuel filter. Lines were still good but in the end it cost me me about $750. After that it cranked right up.
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Old Aug 29, 2015 | 06:55 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by Back to the Future
When I pulled my truck out of the barn I had to replace the whole system. Tank, fuel pump, hanger, sending unit and fuel filter. Lines were still good but in the end it cost me me about $750. After that it cranked right up.


I bought everything new except for the tank as I was planning on reusing. But like you wberry I'm concerned about the screws coming out of the sending unit and hanger bracket. I've been shopping around for a new fuel tank. You buy OEM tank Back to the Future?
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 05:04 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by Back to the Future
When I pulled my truck out of the barn I had to replace the whole system. Tank, fuel pump, hanger, sending unit and fuel filter. Lines were still good but in the end it cost me me about $750. After that it cranked right up.
What was so expensive? I just ordered the sending unit for $140 on ebay. I am guessing you used OEM from a Toyota dealer? That always adds up...
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 05:58 AM
  #91  
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No. OEM tank was over 500 bucks. Bought a Dorman T07D for about 175.

Last edited by Back to the Future; Aug 30, 2015 at 06:01 AM.
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 06:01 AM
  #92  
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Bought Hanger, sending unit, and pump from dealer.

Last edited by Back to the Future; Aug 30, 2015 at 06:22 AM.
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 06:24 AM
  #93  
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From: WI
Originally Posted by wberry85
What was so expensive? I just ordered the sending unit for $140 on ebay. I am guessing you used OEM from a Toyota dealer? That always adds up...

Hey wberry... Check out Boch Toyota South;


http://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.c...-v6-gas-engine


They seem to be the cheapest I've been able to find online for parts. I picked up my hanger bracket for 115 and sending unit for 56...


Hanger 23206-35101
Sending unit 83320-80177


Your parts may be different with your extended cab but it should be similar. The tank on the other hand is out of my league Somewhere around 420. I did however find a site that sells part number 77001-3D932 which is for a reg cab 4wd under a Toyota supra tank for 260;
http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/...wd=&origin=pla


I would maybe entertain that for an OEM painted tank because with my salty roads up here a bare spectra tank would rust pretty fast. Then again for $120 less I could sand and paint the spectra tank . Just kicking around some ideas
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 06:30 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by Back to the Future
No. OEM tank was over 500 bucks. Bought a Dorman T07D for about 175.


How you like the Dorman? I like em because they're painted galvanized. Haven't read a lot about em though. I contacted them last week to ask where they're made and the guy that wrote back said they're manufactured in Taiwan
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 07:08 AM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by duckhead
How you like the Dorman? I like em because they're painted galvanized. Haven't read a lot about em though. I contacted them last week to ask where they're made and the guy that wrote back said they're manufactured in Taiwan
It's been great so far. Mine wasn't painted but I degreased it and painted it with undercoating. Haven't had any problems yet.
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 07:10 AM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by wberry85
What was so expensive? I just ordered the sending unit for $140 on ebay. I am guessing you used OEM from a Toyota dealer? That always adds up...
I went with OEM because I wanted it to last. Those three parts alone were about 575.

Last edited by Back to the Future; Aug 30, 2015 at 08:28 AM.
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 01:53 PM
  #97  
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Moved my rear spring hangers 2" forward today. Went from a negative shackle angle in the rear to a much better degree. Hopefully this will improve the ride quality and flex a little bit. I moved the rear spring hanger forward thinking it would affect my pinion angle less than moving my front spring hanger. Hoping this will also give me some room to drill new holes in the frame above the spring hanger to mount a rear bumper and not have the shackle bottom out on the bumper at full bump.

This was old shackle angle:

Basically vertical



New shackle angle:



For anyone installing the Trail Gear rear lift with 3" springs, beware! They tell you to mount the front spring hanger several inches forward of the factory spring hanger, but just like the IFS Eliminator instructions, they are the same for all of the springs. If you are using the 3" kit, you will move the front spring hanger less distance than instructed. I followed the directions and ended up with the negative shackle angle.

Last edited by wberry85; Aug 30, 2015 at 02:22 PM.
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 03:43 PM
  #98  
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Here is the bumper mounted... Too close to the shackle? What do y'all think?


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Old Aug 31, 2015 | 07:12 PM
  #99  
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From: SLO, Ca
Originally Posted by wberry85
Here is the bumper mounted... Too close to the shackle? What do y'all think?


I'd be curious to see if that shackle hits the bumper at all during full compression.
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Old Sep 7, 2015 | 08:28 AM
  #100  
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That truck looks really good. I dig the side rails and doors, freakin' awesome. Parts equal lighter wallet Have fun be safe, don't over do the liquid refreshments. Need a front brush guard?
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