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Why don't you run single joints on both ends of the front driveshaft? I'm pretty sure they will handle the angle. You don't have the proper set up for a cv on the front anyways.
Why don't you run single joints on both ends of the front driveshaft? I'm pretty sure they will handle the angle. You don't have the proper set up for a cv on the front anyways.
Davez says it will work... What do you think? He couldnt give me maximum angle.
Sorry I have very little understanding about this whole driveshaft thing. As I understood it, I could get more angle with the CV rather than a single joint. As for being set up for a CV, what do you mean? Doesnt it just bolt to the flange either way?
For a CV joint to operate properly, the pinion flange needs to be pointed at the tcase flange. I bet your flanges are closer to being parallel to one another, so that's when single u-joints on both ends are better. Also you can get way more angle out of a single u-joint than a CV joint.
Ah yeah I see what you are saying now. I guess everyone I have talked to has said 28* is too much for their shafts to droop. Maybe I will just order one and see if it breaks...
Rear bumper came in...i hate waiting for paint to dry
I think they sort of put the shackle mounts in a dumb location. If you tie anything to them they will contact the outer tube if you pull on them. I might weld on some of my own.
Last edited by wberry85; Jul 13, 2015 at 05:16 PM.
Still dealing with this stupid body lift...when I lowered the truck back down i found they had installed transfer case shifter extensions. They basically welded 3" of round stock onto the shifter so I got to cut that back in half and return it to stock length tonight. I would have been fine leaving it 3" higher but they extended it so that the bend in the shifter would contact the transmission shifter and I couldnt put it in 4L. Wonderful.
This was the shifter with extension
Cut down the shifter to remove excess length
Me being an idiot and welding it back together forgetting to reinstall the dust seals, spring, and boot
I had to cut it off again and reweld it after putting it back together correctly. Sort of glad I had to do it over bc I turned the heat up and got way better penetration on the weld this time. Not that its going to see stress but it makes me happier. Saved me $120 on a new shifter.
Got my TG bumper bolted in too. I like it.
Last edited by wberry85; Jul 18, 2015 at 07:55 PM.
quick SAS. Looks good. Damn I wish I had a shop and lived close to my Pops... this would be done to my T4R. Errr.
Thanks man. I just did it in my garage and I have seen plenty of builds done in a driveway and even some in an apartment complex parking lot lol. If you got a welder, a grinder, and a drill you can pretty much handle it. Easier than I thought it would be. Go for it! I love my truck 10 times better without the IFS.
Tube doors really suck with no music. Being that my truck is an extended cab I have those little cubby holes in the back. I decided they were a good place to put in some speakers.
Mounted them in 1/2" ply and covered them with some vinyl from an old bench press pad. I'll wait to install them when my CB comes in so I dont have to take my dash apart twice...
Got everything back together. It was a fun mod and free. I never done any body panel welding before. If you are planning on bobbing your bed, I can't stress enough how important straight cuts are. They make the job much easier. I started using a sawzall, but after I jacked up one side of my bed, I switched to the angle grinder.
Last edited by wberry85; Jul 27, 2015 at 03:01 PM.
Well the paint on the truck is a little rough. The roof has zero clear coat left and the hood is next to go. It also had a drop in bedliner that rubbed in several spots and rubbed through the paint causing surface rust. I need a durable solution. I dont want to go with a Maaco job and I dont want to rattle can. I am just too hard on the truck for any of that to last. And so I have decided on Monstaliner for the entire exterior. I will be using the Pyroclasic color since my truck is already gray and this will help the engine bay match.
It will end up something like this:
I know a lot of people are against the bedliner exteriors but for what I need I think it fits the bill quite well. This truck will never end up on a show room floor and I plan on keeping it forever so it seems logical and the most durable solution. Also looking forward to getting rid of all that chrome!
I am hoping to get the whole thing from prep to paint done in a weekend. I will post pics as I go.
Also, I recently came into some free money so I am debating to go 5.29's/35's. Its either 60 gal air compressor, plasma cutter, or gears (+ labor) since each will cost me about a grand. Leaning towards gears since I can pick the other two up on Craigslist later for cheaper.
Got everything put back together and bumper mounted.
Doe anyone know what the thread type is for the bolt holes on the front of the crossmember? My TG bumper has holes for it to bolt up to the front of the crossmember but I never had bolts there before.
Jul 10, 2015 | 03:52 AM
