Swimmerboy2112's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#581
Hey, it's free, ya know? lol. The wing window, GREAT snag! The visor?......Not a big fan of those. The light covers? Hmmmm, guess it's a matter of taste. You can always pull them off if you don't like em.
#587
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Northeast Pennsylvania
hi guys.....been away quite a while.
Brian....what's the electrical situation like? still chasing it?
i saw Chef said ?????bad ground......Joe's 4runner had a rubbed-raw ground wire from the battery to the block so i replaced it for $9 from auto-zone....like i posted in his thread....i wasn't sure it was "the" problem, but it definitely was "a" problem.
on the lights......those tabs look like they may not clear the top.....you might be better off looking for a gutter mount light bar, or just getting a light bar and permanently mounting it to the cap with a quick disconnect for the wiring for when you are removing the cap.
Brian....what's the electrical situation like? still chasing it?
i saw Chef said ?????bad ground......Joe's 4runner had a rubbed-raw ground wire from the battery to the block so i replaced it for $9 from auto-zone....like i posted in his thread....i wasn't sure it was "the" problem, but it definitely was "a" problem.
on the lights......those tabs look like they may not clear the top.....you might be better off looking for a gutter mount light bar, or just getting a light bar and permanently mounting it to the cap with a quick disconnect for the wiring for when you are removing the cap.
#590
The Visor? Fhewwww, ...I'll leave this alone, hahaha.
Ok, anyway, .... I admire your ambition, regarding the lights, Brian, ...but like I said, you're not going to get the 'performance' out of them as compared to mounting them to the bumper or roof front(light bar, either way, ...fairly cheap!) Just a thought for a $50-$80 Fix until you have $200 for a nice Rhino or Brush Guard, Roof Rack project or 800$ AT LEAST for an ARB.(Personally like the WabFab or Addicted or TG style Front Bumper, best!
...Around 350-399$)
Remember, you will still have these lights after you finally decide and decide to spend on the bumper, rack, sliders, suspension mod, verifying of the integrity of your drive line, some new tires, motor(if you're still doing that), etc., etc., etc., hehe. "Do it right the first time" is, I believe, the best motto. These guys, here on Yotatech, have saved me more than once from making a decision that I would have later wished I'd not made(for the reasons of money, time and, well, not waiting till I could do it how I really wanted to). With my Zuk mod, ...that was different, because it can be undone and, well, I really had to do something for as cheap as possible so that I can get out there this summer! lol.
Wish ya the best here, Brian, and keep us up on whatever YOU find today or they find tomorrow, k?
Ok, anyway, .... I admire your ambition, regarding the lights, Brian, ...but like I said, you're not going to get the 'performance' out of them as compared to mounting them to the bumper or roof front(light bar, either way, ...fairly cheap!) Just a thought for a $50-$80 Fix until you have $200 for a nice Rhino or Brush Guard, Roof Rack project or 800$ AT LEAST for an ARB.(Personally like the WabFab or Addicted or TG style Front Bumper, best!
...Around 350-399$) Remember, you will still have these lights after you finally decide and decide to spend on the bumper, rack, sliders, suspension mod, verifying of the integrity of your drive line, some new tires, motor(if you're still doing that), etc., etc., etc., hehe. "Do it right the first time" is, I believe, the best motto. These guys, here on Yotatech, have saved me more than once from making a decision that I would have later wished I'd not made(for the reasons of money, time and, well, not waiting till I could do it how I really wanted to). With my Zuk mod, ...that was different, because it can be undone and, well, I really had to do something for as cheap as possible so that I can get out there this summer! lol.
Wish ya the best here, Brian, and keep us up on whatever YOU find today or they find tomorrow, k?
#591
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From: Walnutport, PA
hi guys.....been away quite a while.
Brian....what's the electrical situation like? still chasing it?
i saw Chef said ?????bad ground......Joe's 4runner had a rubbed-raw ground wire from the battery to the block so i replaced it for $9 from auto-zone....like i posted in his thread....i wasn't sure it was "the" problem, but it definitely was "a" problem.
on the lights......those tabs look like they may not clear the top.....you might be better off looking for a gutter mount light bar, or just getting a light bar and permanently mounting it to the cap with a quick disconnect for the wiring for when you are removing the cap.
Brian....what's the electrical situation like? still chasing it?
i saw Chef said ?????bad ground......Joe's 4runner had a rubbed-raw ground wire from the battery to the block so i replaced it for $9 from auto-zone....like i posted in his thread....i wasn't sure it was "the" problem, but it definitely was "a" problem.
on the lights......those tabs look like they may not clear the top.....you might be better off looking for a gutter mount light bar, or just getting a light bar and permanently mounting it to the cap with a quick disconnect for the wiring for when you are removing the cap.
I'm not sure, i guess we'll have to see.f
The Visor? Fhewwww, ...I'll leave this alone, hahaha.
Ok, anyway, .... I admire your ambition, regarding the lights, Brian, ...but like I said, you're not going to get the 'performance' out of them as compared to mounting them to the bumper or roof front(light bar, either way, ...fairly cheap!) Just a thought for a $50-$80 Fix until you have $200 for a nice Rhino or Brush Guard, Roof Rack project or 800$ AT LEAST for an ARB.(Personally like the WabFab or Addicted or TG style Front Bumper, best!
...Around 350-399$)
Remember, you will still have these lights after you finally decide and decide to spend on the bumper, rack, sliders, suspension mod, verifying of the integrity of your drive line, some new tires, motor(if you're still doing that), etc., etc., etc., hehe. "Do it right the first time" is, I believe, the best motto. These guys, here on Yotatech, have saved me more than once from making a decision that I would have later wished I'd not made(for the reasons of money, time and, well, not waiting till I could do it how I really wanted to). With my Zuk mod, ...that was different, because it can be undone and, well, I really had to do something for as cheap as possible so that I can get out there this summer! lol.
Wish ya the best here, Brian, and keep us up on whatever YOU find today or they find tomorrow, k?
Ok, anyway, .... I admire your ambition, regarding the lights, Brian, ...but like I said, you're not going to get the 'performance' out of them as compared to mounting them to the bumper or roof front(light bar, either way, ...fairly cheap!) Just a thought for a $50-$80 Fix until you have $200 for a nice Rhino or Brush Guard, Roof Rack project or 800$ AT LEAST for an ARB.(Personally like the WabFab or Addicted or TG style Front Bumper, best!
...Around 350-399$) Remember, you will still have these lights after you finally decide and decide to spend on the bumper, rack, sliders, suspension mod, verifying of the integrity of your drive line, some new tires, motor(if you're still doing that), etc., etc., etc., hehe. "Do it right the first time" is, I believe, the best motto. These guys, here on Yotatech, have saved me more than once from making a decision that I would have later wished I'd not made(for the reasons of money, time and, well, not waiting till I could do it how I really wanted to). With my Zuk mod, ...that was different, because it can be undone and, well, I really had to do something for as cheap as possible so that I can get out there this summer! lol.
Wish ya the best here, Brian, and keep us up on whatever YOU find today or they find tomorrow, k?
#593
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From: Walnutport, PA
First i need to get the electrical fixed (tomorrow its going in) then i just need to put on the door (10 min job) and do a little sanding (an hour or 2) then prime the door, hood and front fenders (2 hours or so) and its painting time! Well i gotta tape stuff off too. lol
#594
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From: Walnutport, PA
On this parts truck i found, what else should i pull off it before the guy scraps it? I was thinking rear seats, gauge cluster, and the hubs if i can get them. Anything else you guys would suggest?
#597
Take every sensor, relay, get the spare alternator, harness(if possible of course), Master, clutch master, clutch slave, windows, door handles, maybe mirrors, trunk, bumper/s(if good), wheels(for a spare set of muds?), radiator if it's any good, FPR, Fuel Damper, Rail, Intakes.......? MAN, I'd be stripping that thing to the bone and loading my truck till the leaves went flat! lol...........
Not sure if you're paying for any of this, ...I imagine if he's about to scrap it, the answer to that is a fat NO, hahaha. You can't store the truck, but you should be able to find room for all the crap you can pull off it, no?
Not sure if you're paying for any of this, ...I imagine if he's about to scrap it, the answer to that is a fat NO, hahaha. You can't store the truck, but you should be able to find room for all the crap you can pull off it, no?
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Jul 20, 2010 at 05:13 PM.
#598
Thread Starter
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Walnutport, PA
Take every sensor, relay, get the spare alternator, harness(if possible of course), Master, clutch master, clutch slave, windows, door handles, maybe mirrors, trunk, bumper/s(if good), wheels(for a spare set of muds?), radiator if it's any good, FPR, Fuel Damper, Rail, Intakes.......? MAN, I'd be stripping that thing to the bone and loading my truck till the leaves went flat! lol...........
Not sure if you're paying for any of this, ...I imagine if he's about to scrap it, the answer to that is a fat NO, hahaha. You can't store the truck, but you should be able to find room for all the crap you can pull off it, no?
Not sure if you're paying for any of this, ...I imagine if he's about to scrap it, the answer to that is a fat NO, hahaha. You can't store the truck, but you should be able to find room for all the crap you can pull off it, no?
#599
OF COURSE, Brian, .... Look, I know how that is. There have been times, especially recently when I'm on overload, lol, when, for some reason, the logical deduction just slides right by when I'm leaning down to pick up my brain, hahaha. Dang, ...I really do feel like that< quite a bit in the last few months, lol.
Anyway, YES, of course, ...what could it hurt to have an extra ECU???? Or ANYTHING you can get off it in time. Honestly? I would take the entire rotor, hub and all. Maybe the ball joints, EVERYTHING I COULD! BTW, screw the gauge cluster, ...TAKE THE WHOLE DASH! And also, the reason I mention the harness, Brian, ...well, what better way to learn how it's put together and then rewire it on top of it, than with a donor. Bring the book, EVERY tool you have, and then run to Auto Zone for the rest that you have to rent! lol. Take the steering wheel, signal and washer arms, window motors....WHY NOT? you'll have a spare 'WHATEVER YOU CAN GRAB' when you need it, and can do a FREE SWAP to verify certain things. The Harness? REALLY like that idea if you can manage it. Besides, you're taking out the intake at that point, anyhow,....so why not, eh? Starter maybe, too? Dude, by the time that thing was ready to be picked up tomorrow, ...it'd look like a crew in Los Angeles had it for a full day, IF I HAD JUST 5 HOURS WITH IT! lol. HELL, I'd take the motor as well! .......As I've said 5 times, .......
WHY THE HECK NOT!?!?!?!?!?!?!? What about the axles, diff's, driveshafts? Just be sure you bring MANY milk crates, jack stands, a jack, a gear puller, EVERY socket and screwdriver you have, every wrench, vice grips, channel locks, razors, and DO NOT just CUT the harness if you try to tackle it. REMOVE IT THROUGH THE PANEL with it removed from the ECU, ok????????
Anyway, YES, of course, ...what could it hurt to have an extra ECU???? Or ANYTHING you can get off it in time. Honestly? I would take the entire rotor, hub and all. Maybe the ball joints, EVERYTHING I COULD! BTW, screw the gauge cluster, ...TAKE THE WHOLE DASH! And also, the reason I mention the harness, Brian, ...well, what better way to learn how it's put together and then rewire it on top of it, than with a donor. Bring the book, EVERY tool you have, and then run to Auto Zone for the rest that you have to rent! lol. Take the steering wheel, signal and washer arms, window motors....WHY NOT? you'll have a spare 'WHATEVER YOU CAN GRAB' when you need it, and can do a FREE SWAP to verify certain things. The Harness? REALLY like that idea if you can manage it. Besides, you're taking out the intake at that point, anyhow,....so why not, eh? Starter maybe, too? Dude, by the time that thing was ready to be picked up tomorrow, ...it'd look like a crew in Los Angeles had it for a full day, IF I HAD JUST 5 HOURS WITH IT! lol. HELL, I'd take the motor as well! .......As I've said 5 times, .......
WHY THE HECK NOT!?!?!?!?!?!?!? What about the axles, diff's, driveshafts? Just be sure you bring MANY milk crates, jack stands, a jack, a gear puller, EVERY socket and screwdriver you have, every wrench, vice grips, channel locks, razors, and DO NOT just CUT the harness if you try to tackle it. REMOVE IT THROUGH THE PANEL with it removed from the ECU, ok????????








