Swimmerboy2112's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread
Jul 17, 2010 | 04:44 PM
#565
PICS, PICS, PICS! Yes! lol.
Hey Brian, .....
Your sag isn't that bad, but yeah, ...if you had 31's on there like I do, with the sag I did, ....yeah, I guess it might be a lil closer to the wheel well with the top of the tire.(I know that's now how to measure it, ...but you get my point, right?
hahaha.)
Hey Brian, .....
Your sag isn't that bad, but yeah, ...if you had 31's on there like I do, with the sag I did, ....yeah, I guess it might be a lil closer to the wheel well with the top of the tire.(I know that's now how to measure it, ...but you get my point, right?
hahaha.)
Jul 17, 2010 | 04:53 PM
#566
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PICS, PICS, PICS! Yes! lol.
Hey Brian, .....
Your sag isn't that bad, but yeah, ...if you had 31's on there like I do, with the sag I did, ....yeah, I guess it might be a lil closer to the wheel well with the top of the tire.(I know that's now how to measure it, ...but you get my point, right? hahaha.)
Hey Brian, .....
Your sag isn't that bad, but yeah, ...if you had 31's on there like I do, with the sag I did, ....yeah, I guess it might be a lil closer to the wheel well with the top of the tire.(I know that's now how to measure it, ...but you get my point, right?
hahaha.)
Jul 19, 2010 | 03:09 AM
#570
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From: SE PA.
when you start it or when you try to start it ? does it start? If you turn your headlamps on and they work and you attempt to start engine(have someone look at lights) and lights dim( almost go out) then the ignition switch is good and starter is drawing.
You are very confusing about symptoms therefore very hard to diagnose or help. one time no start next time has quad in back???????
You are very confusing about symptoms therefore very hard to diagnose or help. one time no start next time has quad in back???????
Jul 19, 2010 | 05:25 AM
#571
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when you start it or when you try to start it ? does it start? If you turn your headlamps on and they work and you attempt to start engine(have someone look at lights) and lights dim( almost go out) then the ignition switch is good and starter is drawing.
You are very confusing about symptoms therefore very hard to diagnose or help. one time no start next time has quad in back???????
You are very confusing about symptoms therefore very hard to diagnose or help. one time no start next time has quad in back???????
Jul 19, 2010 | 11:09 AM
#573
Brian, .....hmmmmmm, lol.
I know how it is, Brian, ...not having tons of time, working MANY 16 hour days a week, ....often having, MAYBE, 1 hour on a certain day to tackle things.... and, ....maybe you figure, "I'll try my best to find it before I take it to someone"(I mention this because I thought you were bringing to a specialist/mechanic???) . THAT'S GREAT if you're determined to 'get this yourself'! However, as far as finding help on these threads, from people that can't literally be there with you, you have to be, literally, ANAL about explaining what's going on, maybe getting pics of things you've tested, results of said tests, etc.
GREAT DEAL ON THE FREE QUAD! Just make sure a multi-meter is in your IMMEDIATE-'NEXT PURCHASE'-FUTURE, ok? hahaha. I mean, you're GOING to need one, again, and in all reality? ....Having a analog AND digital is the way to go. Many tests are just simply too hard to read with a digital. However, many tests on an analog are not accurate enough, by the eye, to conclude, "Ok, I have .012 or less resistance on this ground"..... Know what I'm saying?
You got lots of people willing to help you, and I know you're possibly a bit flustered, ...but ya gotta throw people a bit more of a juicy bone, here, with plenty of detail of EVERYTHING it's doing, when it's doing it, and sure, it sucks being alone when trying to test certain things, ....but dude, can't you pull it up to the garage or put a car in front of it for reflection and simply see if they're(the headlights) dying without a second set of eyes?
Personally, I don't like the lights on the roll bar idea. For one, there's not enough clearance on the hood to be able to angle them down a NASTY hill or something when 4x'ing, ....know what I'm saying? That's why people, even with the 4Runners, put them on the roof(right up near the windshield) or on a bull/brush/extended bumper guard. Remember, ....now you're adding more wiring to an already electronically challenged 24 year old Rig? lol... Just sayin.
I know how it is, Brian, ...not having tons of time, working MANY 16 hour days a week, ....often having, MAYBE, 1 hour on a certain day to tackle things.... and, ....maybe you figure, "I'll try my best to find it before I take it to someone"(I mention this because I thought you were bringing to a specialist/mechanic???) . THAT'S GREAT if you're determined to 'get this yourself'! However, as far as finding help on these threads, from people that can't literally be there with you, you have to be, literally, ANAL about explaining what's going on, maybe getting pics of things you've tested, results of said tests, etc.
GREAT DEAL ON THE FREE QUAD! Just make sure a multi-meter is in your IMMEDIATE-'NEXT PURCHASE'-FUTURE, ok? hahaha. I mean, you're GOING to need one, again, and in all reality? ....Having a analog AND digital is the way to go. Many tests are just simply too hard to read with a digital. However, many tests on an analog are not accurate enough, by the eye, to conclude, "Ok, I have .012 or less resistance on this ground"..... Know what I'm saying?
You got lots of people willing to help you, and I know you're possibly a bit flustered, ...but ya gotta throw people a bit more of a juicy bone, here, with plenty of detail of EVERYTHING it's doing, when it's doing it, and sure, it sucks being alone when trying to test certain things, ....but dude, can't you pull it up to the garage or put a car in front of it for reflection and simply see if they're(the headlights) dying without a second set of eyes?
Personally, I don't like the lights on the roll bar idea. For one, there's not enough clearance on the hood to be able to angle them down a NASTY hill or something when 4x'ing, ....know what I'm saying? That's why people, even with the 4Runners, put them on the roof(right up near the windshield) or on a bull/brush/extended bumper guard. Remember, ....now you're adding more wiring to an already electronically challenged 24 year old Rig? lol... Just sayin.
Jul 19, 2010 | 11:20 AM
#574
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Brian, .....hmmmmmm, lol.
I know how it is, Brian, ...not having tons of time, working MANY 16 hour days a week, ....often having, MAYBE, 1 hour on a certain day to tackle things.... and, ....maybe you figure, "I'll try my best to find it before I take it to someone"(I mention this because I thought you were bringing to a specialist/mechanic???) . THAT'S GREAT if you're determined to 'get this yourself'! However, as far as finding help on these threads, from people that can't literally be there with you, you have to be, literally, ANAL about explaining what's going on, maybe getting pics of things you've tested, results of said tests, etc.
GREAT DEAL ON THE FREE QUAD! Just make sure a multi-meter is in your IMMEDIATE-'NEXT PURCHASE'-FUTURE, ok? hahaha. I mean, you're GOING to need one, again, and in all reality? ....Having a analog AND digital is the way to go. Many tests are just simply too hard to read with a digital. However, many tests on an analog are not accurate enough, by the eye, to conclude, "Ok, I have .012 or less resistance on this ground"..... Know what I'm saying?
You got lots of people willing to help you, and I know you're possibly a bit flustered, ...but ya gotta throw people a bit more of a juicy bone, here, with plenty of detail of EVERYTHING it's doing, when it's doing it, and sure, it sucks being alone when trying to test certain things, ....but dude, can't you pull it up to the garage or put a car in front of it for reflection and simply see if they're(the headlights) dying without a second set of eyes?
Personally, I don't like the lights on the roll bar idea. For one, there's not enough clearance on the hood to be able to angle them down a NASTY hill or something when 4x'ing, ....know what I'm saying? That's why people, even with the 4Runners, put them on the roof(right up near the windshield) or on a bull/brush/extended bumper guard. Remember, ....now you're adding more wiring to an already electronically challenged 24 year old Rig? lol... Just sayin.
I know how it is, Brian, ...not having tons of time, working MANY 16 hour days a week, ....often having, MAYBE, 1 hour on a certain day to tackle things.... and, ....maybe you figure, "I'll try my best to find it before I take it to someone"(I mention this because I thought you were bringing to a specialist/mechanic???) . THAT'S GREAT if you're determined to 'get this yourself'! However, as far as finding help on these threads, from people that can't literally be there with you, you have to be, literally, ANAL about explaining what's going on, maybe getting pics of things you've tested, results of said tests, etc.
GREAT DEAL ON THE FREE QUAD! Just make sure a multi-meter is in your IMMEDIATE-'NEXT PURCHASE'-FUTURE, ok? hahaha. I mean, you're GOING to need one, again, and in all reality? ....Having a analog AND digital is the way to go. Many tests are just simply too hard to read with a digital. However, many tests on an analog are not accurate enough, by the eye, to conclude, "Ok, I have .012 or less resistance on this ground"..... Know what I'm saying?
You got lots of people willing to help you, and I know you're possibly a bit flustered, ...but ya gotta throw people a bit more of a juicy bone, here, with plenty of detail of EVERYTHING it's doing, when it's doing it, and sure, it sucks being alone when trying to test certain things, ....but dude, can't you pull it up to the garage or put a car in front of it for reflection and simply see if they're(the headlights) dying without a second set of eyes?
Personally, I don't like the lights on the roll bar idea. For one, there's not enough clearance on the hood to be able to angle them down a NASTY hill or something when 4x'ing, ....know what I'm saying? That's why people, even with the 4Runners, put them on the roof(right up near the windshield) or on a bull/brush/extended bumper guard. Remember, ....now you're adding more wiring to an already electronically challenged 24 year old Rig? lol... Just sayin.
Yeah i'm still planning on taking it in Wednesday, I just figured i'd do a few more things first. Yeah, i know i need to get a multimeter, next paycheck thats what i'll get. And about the lights, i figured out a way to have them clear the roof and still be able to swing down when the top is on. And I haven't wired them up yet, i'm not going to wire them up until I get this electrical problem fixed.
Jul 19, 2010 | 11:54 AM
#575
Why not mount them to the bumper, Brian? I had them front and back on my white 4Runner, and the ones in back were WICKED '#-Hole' lights, lol. Actually, I never flashed anyone, ...that's just DANGEROUS and, well, stupid. However, I USED THEM ALL THE TIME backing up, etc. Also keep in mind, if you put them there, and you're sleeping in the back ....DON'T GET UP TOO FAST! HAHAHAHA. "Dinggggg,....OUCH!" Jk.
One thing you CAN do, Brian, with whatever tools you have, is track back every ground, especially the ones by the fuse panel(in engine bay, bolted to fenderwell) and on the back to the head, and to the block, is CLEAN THEM UP LIKE NEW, use Dielectric grease on all of them (or at least some anti-corrosion stuff). Also pull up the fuse box in engine bay by the battery and make sure that wire is in there snug. Also make sure the screws holding in the 80AMP fuse for the alternator are 'toight' and 'clean'.
I'll give you an example of a FREE FIX. Yesterday, I got SICK of not having a temp gauge 99.5% of the time, and my Oil Pressure one wasn't working as well. So, I swapped out the Water and Oil Gauges from the donor I had, cleaned up all the contacts I could reach in my dash, including the Speedo cable, di-greased it all up, buttoned it up, and YEA, ...temp gauge. BOO, NO OIL PRESSURE! lol. So, I pulled the rubber cap off the Oil Sender, after disconnecting the wire, inspected it, and while it looked fine, I noticed that the 'clip'(the side that slides on the end of the oil sender connector) had become widened, just from 23 years of bobbling around! lol. CAREFULLY crimped down the lips of the slide-on connector, slid it on, popped back the rubber boot, connected it, and VOILA, ..I have Oil Pressure again! These are all things you can CAREFULLY verify and clean up, and if you have Di-Grease, USE IT, it will STOP corrosion in every one of those connectors and increase signal/polarity.
If you do this, cleaning all the grounds up like new, etc.(plus, maybe you'll find a loose wire, etc.), making sure your power line to the fuse box from the battery is all good, the 80AMP fuse is in there tight, cleaned up.......it might just be easier for this mechanic to find whatever is wrong, ...and heck, at least he could rule out 6-10 things, eh?
Best wishes, Brian,
Mark
One thing you CAN do, Brian, with whatever tools you have, is track back every ground, especially the ones by the fuse panel(in engine bay, bolted to fenderwell) and on the back to the head, and to the block, is CLEAN THEM UP LIKE NEW, use Dielectric grease on all of them (or at least some anti-corrosion stuff). Also pull up the fuse box in engine bay by the battery and make sure that wire is in there snug. Also make sure the screws holding in the 80AMP fuse for the alternator are 'toight' and 'clean'.
I'll give you an example of a FREE FIX. Yesterday, I got SICK of not having a temp gauge 99.5% of the time, and my Oil Pressure one wasn't working as well. So, I swapped out the Water and Oil Gauges from the donor I had, cleaned up all the contacts I could reach in my dash, including the Speedo cable, di-greased it all up, buttoned it up, and YEA, ...temp gauge. BOO, NO OIL PRESSURE! lol. So, I pulled the rubber cap off the Oil Sender, after disconnecting the wire, inspected it, and while it looked fine, I noticed that the 'clip'(the side that slides on the end of the oil sender connector) had become widened, just from 23 years of bobbling around! lol. CAREFULLY crimped down the lips of the slide-on connector, slid it on, popped back the rubber boot, connected it, and VOILA, ..I have Oil Pressure again! These are all things you can CAREFULLY verify and clean up, and if you have Di-Grease, USE IT, it will STOP corrosion in every one of those connectors and increase signal/polarity.
If you do this, cleaning all the grounds up like new, etc.(plus, maybe you'll find a loose wire, etc.), making sure your power line to the fuse box from the battery is all good, the 80AMP fuse is in there tight, cleaned up.......it might just be easier for this mechanic to find whatever is wrong, ...and heck, at least he could rule out 6-10 things, eh?
Best wishes, Brian,
Mark
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Jul 19, 2010 at 11:55 AM.
Jul 19, 2010 | 12:03 PM
#576
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From: Walnutport, PA
Why not mount them to the bumper, Brian? I had them front and back on my white 4Runner, and the ones in back were WICKED '#-Hole' lights, lol. Actually, I never flashed anyone, ...that's just DANGEROUS and, well, stupid. However, I USED THEM ALL THE TIME backing up, etc. Also keep in mind, if you put them there, and you're sleeping in the back ....DON'T GET UP TOO FAST! HAHAHAHA. "Dinggggg,....OUCH!" Jk.
One thing you CAN do, Brian, with whatever tools you have, is track back every ground, especially the ones by the fuse panel(in engine bay, bolted to fenderwell) and on the back to the head, and to the block, is CLEAN THEM UP LIKE NEW, use Dielectric grease on all of them (or at least some anti-corrosion stuff). Also pull up the fuse box in engine bay by the battery and make sure that wire is in there snug. Also make sure the screws holding in the 80AMP fuse for the alternator are 'toight' and 'clean'.
I'll give you an example of a FREE FIX. Yesterday, I got SICK of not having a temp gauge 99.5% of the time, and my Oil Pressure one wasn't working as well. So, I swapped out the Water and Oil Gauges from the donor I had, cleaned up all the contacts I could reach in my dash, including the Speedo cable, di-greased it all up, buttoned it up, and YEA, ...temp gauge. BOO, NO OIL PRESSURE! lol. So, I pulled the rubber cap off the Oil Sender, after disconnecting the wire, inspected it, and while it looked fine, I noticed that the 'clip'(the side that slides on the end of the oil sender connector) had become widened, just from 23 years of bobbling around! lol. CAREFULLY crimped down the lips of the slide-on connector, slid it on, popped back the rubber boot, connected it, and VOILA, ..I have Oil Pressure again! These are all things you can CAREFULLY verify and clean up, and if you have Di-Grease, USE IT, it will STOP corrosion in every one of those connectors and increase signal/polarity.
If you do this, cleaning all the grounds up like new, etc.(plus, maybe you'll find a loose wire, etc.), making sure your power line to the fuse box from the battery is all good, the 80AMP fuse is in there tight, cleaned up.......it might just be easier for this mechanic to find whatever is wrong, ...and heck, at least he could rule out 6-10 things, eh?
Best wishes, Brian,
Mark
One thing you CAN do, Brian, with whatever tools you have, is track back every ground, especially the ones by the fuse panel(in engine bay, bolted to fenderwell) and on the back to the head, and to the block, is CLEAN THEM UP LIKE NEW, use Dielectric grease on all of them (or at least some anti-corrosion stuff). Also pull up the fuse box in engine bay by the battery and make sure that wire is in there snug. Also make sure the screws holding in the 80AMP fuse for the alternator are 'toight' and 'clean'.
I'll give you an example of a FREE FIX. Yesterday, I got SICK of not having a temp gauge 99.5% of the time, and my Oil Pressure one wasn't working as well. So, I swapped out the Water and Oil Gauges from the donor I had, cleaned up all the contacts I could reach in my dash, including the Speedo cable, di-greased it all up, buttoned it up, and YEA, ...temp gauge. BOO, NO OIL PRESSURE! lol. So, I pulled the rubber cap off the Oil Sender, after disconnecting the wire, inspected it, and while it looked fine, I noticed that the 'clip'(the side that slides on the end of the oil sender connector) had become widened, just from 23 years of bobbling around! lol. CAREFULLY crimped down the lips of the slide-on connector, slid it on, popped back the rubber boot, connected it, and VOILA, ..I have Oil Pressure again! These are all things you can CAREFULLY verify and clean up, and if you have Di-Grease, USE IT, it will STOP corrosion in every one of those connectors and increase signal/polarity.
If you do this, cleaning all the grounds up like new, etc.(plus, maybe you'll find a loose wire, etc.), making sure your power line to the fuse box from the battery is all good, the 80AMP fuse is in there tight, cleaned up.......it might just be easier for this mechanic to find whatever is wrong, ...and heck, at least he could rule out 6-10 things, eh?
Best wishes, Brian,
Mark
Mark,
You make an excellent point, it could be something as simple as a bad connection/ground. I'll give the wiring a look now, since i have a few free hours today.
-Brian
Jul 19, 2010 | 12:05 PM
#577
Personally, while it could be anything, including some dangling wire in the dash, ...I'm going to guess the battery, for some reason, is not getting a good ground, or somewhere in the harness, between the Power line off the battery and the Alternator "power plug/connector", you have an issue. And remember, ...I would bet that, somewhere in the circuitry, possibly in your harness, or possibly just a crimped or separated cluster of wires in one of your power wire network, ....you could have something that JUST FINALLY gave up the ghost, due to you driving it a bit harder, etc., and 'POOF', 24 years later, it finally came loose/grounded out/became too corroded, .....Eh?
One thing I don't remember you mentioning, Brian? Didn't you go 4Wheeling in Rousch and wind up with a big problem? Even though you didn't get far, isn't it possible that you YOINKED some wire beyond it's limits, or soaked the alternator, GOOD, and caused it to blow a section of wire in between the alternator/battery, or short something, somewhere?
Sorry, don't mean to speculate at your expense, lol. I WANNA SEE YOU SOLVE THIS, and or at least get back on the road asap!
One thing I don't remember you mentioning, Brian? Didn't you go 4Wheeling in Rousch and wind up with a big problem? Even though you didn't get far, isn't it possible that you YOINKED some wire beyond it's limits, or soaked the alternator, GOOD, and caused it to blow a section of wire in between the alternator/battery, or short something, somewhere?
Sorry, don't mean to speculate at your expense, lol. I WANNA SEE YOU SOLVE THIS, and or at least get back on the road asap!
Jul 19, 2010 | 12:05 PM
#578
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Yesterday went to get a door and the guy i bought it from decided to throw in a few more things as well. 
Tail light covers
Triangle window (drivers side)
Visor thing (not sure if i like it or hate it)
Passenger door (not pictured).
Tail light covers
Triangle window (drivers side)
Visor thing (not sure if i like it or hate it)
Passenger door (not pictured).
Jul 19, 2010 | 12:07 PM
#579
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Personally, while it could be anything, including some dangling wire in the dash, ...I'm going to guess the battery, for some reason, is not getting a good ground, or somewhere in the harness, between the Power line off the battery and the Alternator "power plug/connector", you have an issue. And remember, ...I would bet that, somewhere in the circuitry, possibly in your harness, or possibly just a crimped or separated cluster of wires in one of your power wire network, ....you could have something that JUST FINALLY gave up the ghost, due to you driving it a bit harder, etc., and 'POOF', 24 years later, it finally came loose/grounded out/became too corroded, .....Eh?
One thing I don't remember you mentioning, Brian? Didn't you go 4Wheeling in Rousch and wind up with a big problem? Even though you didn't get far, isn't it possible that you YOINKED some wire beyond it's limits, or soaked the alternator, GOOD, and caused it to blow a section of wire in between the alternator/battery, or short something, somewhere?
Sorry, don't mean to speculate at your expense, lol. I WANNA SEE YOU SOLVE THIS, and or at least get back on the road asap!
One thing I don't remember you mentioning, Brian? Didn't you go 4Wheeling in Rousch and wind up with a big problem? Even though you didn't get far, isn't it possible that you YOINKED some wire beyond it's limits, or soaked the alternator, GOOD, and caused it to blow a section of wire in between the alternator/battery, or short something, somewhere?
Sorry, don't mean to speculate at your expense, lol. I WANNA SEE YOU SOLVE THIS, and or at least get back on the road asap!
Jul 19, 2010 | 12:21 PM
#580
GOOD! Look, ....don't just 'give it a look', Brian, ...actually remove every ground and otherwise mentioned, and give it a good cleaning, inspection. WHY NOT, EH? I mean, I'm in Cali, Brian, ...and EVEN I HAVE corrosion and ground electrolysis that I need to clean up every few years! Sure, they may APPEAR clean when you unbolt them, ....but the corrosion(especially in PA< NO?) WILL FIND A WAY to eat whatever is not securely covered/joined(no air-moisture areas). And, eventually, it WILL EAT right through the 'integrity', AT LEAST, of many of the wires, .....where? USUALLY RIGHT WHERE THEY CONNECT TO A GROUND OR POSITIVE CONNECTION! I mean, it's not as likely to rust out under 2MM high temp, corrosion resistant insulation, eh? lol.
