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Hoping I'm in the final stretch. The barbs on the fuel bracket fitting have a brazed on flare nut (does not spin on the tube).
I knew I'd kink the old one getting it out and that's exactly what happened. No amount of PB blaster would free it up enough to break free.
But then the replacement part came from yotayard with that fitting also still attached (they cut the fuel line upstream). I tried to be super careful but also kinked the line.
My friend that runs District Fab was able to braze on a new line with a spinning flare nut. Hoping for better luck on the install today.
Yet one more setback... after everything over the last 6 weeks, I find out that there is a leak at the intake where it meets the head -- the only thing I did not replace when I had it all apart. Hoping that it will be running strong by this weekend.
Looks badass out there man! What's the lift setup in the front again? BJ spacers right? Old man emu torsion bars?
Just realized that I never responded to you. Yes, 2 in ball joint spacers in the front, OME 2 in springs in the back with custom stock height shackles.
I did the later model plenum and throttle body upgrade a few weeks ago and it's been running aweome. Here's a recap...
Reason for the upgrade... I was experiencing a few symptoms that all led back to the idle air control valve malfunctioning. These included:
- Loss of high idle at cold start, despite new OEM cold start time switch and rebuilt injector (and both confirmed fully functional)
- Intermittent idle climb and fall - was beginning to happen more and more frequently
- Exhaust popping on deceleration
Parts acquired for upgrade:
- Later model plenum - used
- Later model throttle body - used
- Later model coolant bypass nipple on intake (previously installed to repair broken early style 90 degree elbow - see earlier build pages)
- Later model intake boot (throttle body to intake tube) - used
- OEM gaskets - plenum to lower intake, plenum to throttle body, cold start injector, EGR
- Bypass hoses - PN 16267-35030 and PN 16264-35030
- Cold start valve gasket (to bottom of throttle body)
- Valve cover to throttle body vent hose
Note: I've seen in some forum posts people say that you need the late model throttle cable. I picked one up and had it ready to go but found that my existing cable works just fine.
Prior to install, I had the plenum cold tanked (cost $28). I dropped it off full of sludge and it came back perfectly clean inside. Well worth the cost and convenience.
I also removed the cold start valve from the throttle body and thoroughly cleaned both.
The intake and valve cover then received a paint and polish job.
Here is the before pic of the motor:
The old plenum removed:
The new plenum and throttle body ready for install:
I also decided to add LC Engineering's idle adjust screw that allows for 'no tool' idle adjustment by hand:
In-process. Plenum and valve cover removed:
One thing you need to know... the actuator for the TPS is different between the new and old style and must be swapped in older to use the early style TPS on the later style throttle body:
Early style actuator (tabs are vertical):
Later style actuator (tabs are horizontal):
Swapping them is as easy as loosening the retaining nut and gently prying them off with a small screw driver. Here's the old style actuator on the newer throttle body:
After completion of install:
The results:
I now have a high idle at cold start. The intermittent idle climb and fall is completely gone as are the exhaust pops on deceleration. It also feels like acceleration is smoother right off the line.
I'm very happy with how it turned out. The motor looks and runs better than it ever has.
Apr 27, 2015 | 05:36 PM
