Hit me up when you're ready. I'll give you some tips.

 

Thanks i will for sure.

 

I love what you've done. I'll be watching your build from now on. Thank you!!

 

Getting ready for another weekend of heavy wrenching. Projects include tune up, EGR delete, Jaguar 120 amp alternator install and full upgrade to all stainless heater/coolant lines. More pics to follow shortly.

 

^ That bling will not only look good, but also be a good upgrade. Who doesn't like stainless steel! Also, before you replaced the CVs I assume you had some serious clanking when driving?

 

Thanks! I'm going for reliability and longevity. Can't beat stainless for that.

My CV shafts were toast. Had lots of play and vibration when in 4wd. Now it's all smooth.

 

I need to do the CVs on my truck too. Wasn't sure what CVs to go with, but the Napa ones seem to be a good option.

 

yes very nice progress

 

This weekend's progress:

Done:
-Replace AFM with rebuilt unit
-EGR delete
-Replace distributor O ring
-Replace power steering return lines
-Replace driver side heater pipe with stainless upgrade
-Replace pass side timing cover to IAC coolant pipe with stainless upgrade

In progress:
-Jaguar 120 amp alternator upgrade - need to bore out factory pulley to 17mm
-Replace lower radiator coolant pipe with stainless upgrade - will go in after alternator
-Replace power steering pressure hose
-Figure out how to remove passenger side heater pipe from lower intake - it's stuck on wickedly - wasting serious time on it and it won't budge. Suggestions greatly appreciated !

To-Do:
-Set timing
-Replace Throttle Position Sensor

Some progress pics:

EGR delete (a little hard to see the block off plates):



All torn apart:



Timing cover heater pipe:






Driver side heater pipe:







Why replacing these pipes is important... I was starting to get drippage...


Toyota vs. Jaguar alternator (yes, I had some oil leakage from my distributor, oil pump and power steering -- all will be resolved by the time I fire it back up).

 

Nice! Just curious, how popular is the Jaguar alternator upgrade? Seems like a good idea, but never heard of it before.

 

I've seen about 4 or 5 guys on here that have done it now. It's plug and play -uses the same 3 prong plug. There are only two issues - the shaft on the Jag alternator is 17mm vs. the Toyota's 15mm and the threaded mounting ear on the Jag is slightly taller than the Toyotas.

I had the stock pulley bored out by my friend at his shop and we ground down the mounting ear to the height of the Toyota. Some have left the mounting ear and slightly bent the mounting bracket instead.

The source vehicle is a 1994 Jaguar XJ6. The output is 120 amps vs. stock at 60 amps.

 

Cool, I like the output that the alternator puts out! I've heard of "stock" alternators that are modded to a similar output but are pretty expensive. I assume this is a more reasonable mod. Whats next, a wiring upgrade?

 

I already upgraded to the big 3 wiring a while ago -- you would need to do this for this alternator set up. Before I fire it up I will be adding a 130 amp ANL fuse with a marine fuse holder I got from a boat supply store. I should have pics of that shortly.

 

Progress from this week and also a few setbacks...

First, the progress... the Jag alternator is in! As is the rad stainless coolant pipe, the power steering pump has been reinstalled and I replaced the steering pressure hose which was ridiculously dry rotted - got it just in time.

Installed alternator:



But before I was done, I learned that the B post on the new alternator is much larger than the Toyota's ring terminal. I upped the terminal size to 5/16":



Here's how bad the power steering pressure how was cracking:



Everything was going swimmingly so I decided to pull the upper intake to get more access to that stuck pass side heater pipe and to also see if I might have a blocked coolant passage on the elbow next to the thermostat (some have reported idle issues due to this being clogged). I put a wrench on that elbow and it started turning and came out but I learned that it was pressed in, not threaded. I now have to upgrade to the threaded straight nipple from the later models. I guess it could be worse.







So then I figured... with the intake off and the truck down for now at least a few more days, why not pull the fuel injectors and send them to Witch Hunter. Again, setback... 3 of the 4 injector plugs crumbled upon removal. I sure do like soldering

 

Nice!

 

Lots of progress in the past few weeks. Most evenings and weekends were spent wrenching or walking/skateboarding/bumming cars to scavenge parts or hardware.

Had to source a 1/8 - 28 British Pipe Thread Tap to repair/upgrade to the new style throttle body bypass hose:

Tapping:


New fitting installed, used thread sealant:



So then I decided since I had the intake plenum off, why not send the fuel injectors out to Witch Hunter for rebuilding -- had another setback. 3 of the 4 fuel injector connector plugs crumbled upon removal. Thankfully Napa stock replacement pigtails that are also an upgraded design.

Here a close up of one of the injectors reinstalled with the Napa plug:



So part of the reason for also sending the fuel injectors out is that I am chasing a random stumble under load that does not throw any codes. My spark plugs are showing residue indicative of a lean mixture. I thought I'd save myself some time and outsource the diagnostics this time to the dealer that had suggested the AFM as a possible cause -- I replaced with a reman unit and the issue persisted.

So I am in parts throwing mode at this point -- I know, I know. But I'm going for long-term reliability with this rig and there are relatively few sensors and switches on the motor so I decided to go ahead and replace almost all of them that I had not replaced in the past 2-3 years since I picked it up. I'm going all OE -- when I'm done, there will be very little left that's more than 3 years old, increasing my peace of mind for a while... and it's a lot easier to replace a bunch at once when you have everything ripped out.

Thus, the fuel filter got replaced:



The throttle body removed, cleaned, lubed and fitted with a new throttle position sensor:



My connector on my TPS had be cracked for a while so I soldered in a replacement wire pigtail I picked up from YotaYard in Denver.

Not pictured - replaced the temp gauge sender. Also replaced, cap, rotor, wires.

I also had to upgrade my big three wiring to a 130 amp ANL fuse to support the new Jag alternator:






I picked up the factory battery hold down recently and finally got that in tonight. I went back to traditional batteries. I was very disappointed with how short lived my last Optima red top lasted (less than 3 years).




Got things pretty close to buttoned up tonight. I actually was starting to forget what it looked like all assembled:



I'm holding off firing it up until this weekend. I will be replacing the fuel pump (Denso) and the fuel pressure regulator (Kyosan) on Saturday -- both are presumed to be original and 30 years old.

Fingers crossed for no leaks and demons exercised on Saturday!

 

You fire this bad boy up yet?!

 

Looks good.

Read looks of bad things about optima batteries in last several years after the company changed hands really seems quality went down.

 

It fires up but I had another setback... When I went replace the fuel pump I found the arm on the mounting bracket (how it also grounds) snapped off and dangling by the ground wire.

It's a clean break and it could have been like that since I picked it up. The part is obsolete and I couldn't find a used one anywhere. So I fabbed a new ground wire so I could start it up.

The positives from this week is it's now 100% assembled. It has the new fuel pressure regulator in, the ps system has been bled and the cooling system burped.

Fuel pressure is still off and it's running like ˟˟˟˟˟ at the moment.

It barely idles with the timing at 5 BTDC and seems to run much better at 10-15. Too soon to tell if that's because of fuel pressure.

The new bracket should be here wed/thurs from yotayard. The saga continues into week 5!

New fp regulator:



Some pics of the fuel bracket and temporary repair:


























Close up of the break

 

Dang that's a bummer, so basically you would need a new fuel tank just for the bracket.. Those are the worst kind of breaks