RyanV

iTrader: (1)

Hey all,

Starting my build thread. Bought this 1993 Ext-Cab 4x4 from a lady down the street. I had been eye balling this rig for the last two years. So excited about this! I sold my 2006 Tundra recently, and I've been missing a truck!

It's got 150k on it, and it's a 5 speed.

It had a burning electrical smell that I thought was the clutch, but I figured out yesterday the alternator is totally burned up. I ordered a Bosch from amazon with 1 day shipping for like $117 with no core!

I also adjusted the valves the same day I got it home. I know the head could use a full rebuild so I might end up yanking the head, we'll see.

I've got a small laundry list of items that I will be addressing pretty quick.

Check timing
Spark plugs
Steering stops
Steering idler arm
Oil change
Rust under battery needs attention
Brake fluid flush
Clutch master fluid flush
Rancho shock set is 130 after rebate right now

Here are some pics

DSC05068

DSC05069

DSC05075

DSC05070

DSC05078

This is going to be fun to fix...i guess the battery leaked at some point and did this. I should be able to stop or slow down the rust from spreading.

DSC05077

chukarhunt

iTrader: (1)

Very Clean! Sucks about the battery doing that damage, at least it is localized. If it was truly acid I would take water and baking soda and drench that section in it to neutralize any acid left over, then either take a wire wheel and clean it up and "paint" over it or just "paint" over it, depends on how much elbow grease you want to put into it. I love the color of the rig too. This is my favorite generation, I look forward to your build!

Gizler00

iTrader: (1)

Man what a nice clean looking truck. I have been looking for a clean 3rd gen 22re ex cab for soo long. I will have one someday.

Like chukarhunt said, neutralize the battery acid and fix the surface rust. Overall it looks super clean and rust free.

What a great foundation to start with.

I am looking forward to what your plans are.

RyanV

iTrader: (1)

Thanks! Good idea about neutralizing the acid. I didn't think about that. I was gonna wire wheel it, sand it and spray it with some permatex rust converting spray that I ordered.

Plan right now is to see if I can make it a reliable daily again. It's got some engine noise that I'm hoping will get a bit better with fresh oil.

I may make a video of the noise so I can show you guys. I also have a engine stethoscope I need to bust out.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

That is a great looking truck and extended cabs are hard to find. My wife had one and sold it and now regrets it so bad. Looking forward to your build.

RyanV

iTrader: (1)

Thanks a lot! I'm having a HELL OF A TIME getting this Bosch alternator installed. The engine side bracket is so tight that the new alternator won't slip in. I've actually sanded down the alternator some by hand, to see if it'll go into the bracket.

There's a bushing in the alternator that is flush on the OE unit so I may have to bust out a power tool and level out that bushing.

I neutralized all of the battery acid. It wasn't that much. The rust is under the battery tray pretty good. Everything is fairly solid though and I should be able to slow it way down, but I can't get to the rust under the battery tray since it's part of the body.

Roark

If you're skilled enough or have the resources, just cut that battery plate out and weld in a new one!

Roark

Btw, welcome to the 3rd gen Xtra cab club! They're great trucks!

RyanV

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!

Here's what I did today.

Installed the alternator.

I changed the oil, the old oil was way past due.

I changed the spark plugs and poured some seafoam directly into the cylinders to see if it could help clean up the rings. I didn't even put much seafoam in and it smoked for like 20 minutes, then cleared up.

The truck is running good now except that it has a nasty engine noise like a rodknock or piston slap under load, but it's not always there so maybe it's a valve? When i take off and the rpm's hit 2500 or so the noise is there then it goes away.

Maybe it needs a 2JZ engine swap.

Roark

^never heard a better excuse for a 2jz "my truck maybe has a rod knock or some valve chatter.."
Haha

d21cruisa

So jealous..... that thing is NICE!

RyanV

iTrader: (1)

Ha! I think a 1UZ would be more like it. Their are 2z 2UZ vehicles in the driveway right now. Love that VVTI!

I said f it and drove it to work today. It did pretty good. The head needs a good rebuild.

rattlewagon

They are great! Haha.

Congrats on the new truck, looks VERY clean!

RyanV

iTrader: (1)

I scored a set of 1993 Toyota truck service manuals, including the electrical manual in case we decide to swap in a UZ!

RyanV

iTrader: (1)

I cut the old oil filter open and there's glitter in the oil. Enough that you can see it pull towards a magnet. The filter element also is shimmering with delight.

Compression test was 170 psi across the board.

I now know it needs the 4 pc front end kit too.

Question now is rebuild...buy a remanned engine from Oregon....or swap in the Lexus V8.

My first choice would be reman since it's the fastest option. I'm sure that if I get my motor to the machine shop it'll sit there longer than i want it to.

The V8 looks cool, but I see it costing $3k just for the swap plus a lot of custom stuff and little things that will add up.

chukarhunt

iTrader: (1)

oooo, UZ swap. I almost pulled the trigger, but decided to keep the 3.0 and use my money on other things. These 22REs are impressive little engines, but a rebuild will cost just as much as a swap in some cases, depends on what you can source. The member on here who was telling me to swap in the V8 did his UZ swap for under $1000. If you can find a wrecked or cheap car to pull it from, there are CAD drawings you can get for cheap for the adapter plate to the transmission, and then relocate the radiator, it is a very viable swap... but I would put in the R150F trans at least, so there starts to rocket your costs.


engnbldr has a lot of great stuff for the 22RE. Put in a little time and you can have it rebuilt yourself and have a great running engine. Depends on what you want to put your funds towards to build first, but a reliable engine definitely tops the list.

RyanV

iTrader: (1)

I don't see the V8 swap being even under 2 grand.

Complete strong running 1UZ from my friends Sc400 = 450
Swap kit = 800
Mr2 clutch kit = 130
Alum radiator and Electric fans = 250
Custom Exhaust = 300
Remote mount oil filter and random other items = 500

My friend will be showing me how to do the wiring conversion. He does 1JZ/2JZ swap harnesses.


If I did a rebuilt 22RE, I could get it in the car like next week for 1600 bucks

chukarhunt

iTrader: (1)

Ya given you have the 4 cylinder to start out with makes it more expensive. If you had the 3.0 you can reuse some of the parts, no need for a swap kit or new clutch. Either way, the v8 would be way more fun.

Nervo19

The reference to Oregon struck me. There have been many dissatisfied customers of Oregon Engine Rebuilders. I have no first hand knowledge. Do a Google check and proceed with caution. I had in mind if/when my 22RE bites the dust I will use
http://www.22reperformance.com/22RE_...t_Engines.html


Just something I've picked up from being on here too long. At 150k right now I hope it's a while before I need them. You have a great truck. Xtra cabs sure seem to be hard to find.

94mackyota

Great score on an almost totally rust free truck. I wish I could find a truck in at least half as good as shape as that but in the PA "rust belt" you are lucky if the frame isn't cracked in half.


As far as the engine goes, I would stick with the 22re. They are relatively easy and cheap to work on. They don't produce a ton of power but are really reliable. I just rebuilt mine and put a Pro Torquer cam from LCE, headers from LCE, a cold air intake, better injectors and a bored out throttle body. I put a heavy duty Marlin Crawler clutch and pressure plate behind it and it turns my 33's no problem.