Thanks for the info! i just sat down to research rebuilt motor suppliers

Sounds like a nice motor setup! I decided to do a rebuilt 22re. I don't have time to get into the V8 swap right now.

 

If anyone could recommend a decent stock rebuilt engine provider that doesn't charge more than 1350 for an assembled longblock, I'd appreciate it. You can send me a pm with the info as well.

EDIT: think im gonna bite the time bullet and take it to a local machine shop.

 

Decided to start taking things apart to get the engine out.

The factory service manual has me pulling the transmission, but I'm starting to think that I might leave the trans in the truck and pull just the motor. Not sure yet.



I guess it's supposed to be easy to remove the starter and fuel filter from the wheelwell. Looks like fun



The ecu wiring came out easy once I removed the glovebox and ecu.



I have to keep pushing it backwards and forwards to have enough room to work on it. I had a friend come by and look at it, and he's gonna paint it once the motor is back in the truck.



This is the most dissapointing Toyota service manual I've seen. Not enough detail. It's only slightly better than a Nissan service manual








and I'm really on the fence about spending $2k just to put the stock motor back in....

 

I think I may be going with the 3RZ engine swap. It might cost just a bit more than putting a rebuilt 22re back into the truck, but I believe it's worth it.

More power
Newer wiring harness
Newer design
More efficient
OBD2 trouble codes are nice to have
No drivetrain mods needed
Lighter engine
Engine package is cleaner and less clutter
Engine mount adapters are available

 

Pretty rad how you can sit the ac compressor on the frame. The engine came out without much drama. The top two trans bolts required wobbler sockets, but not bad! I'm going to tear it down so that I can drop it at the machine shop in the next couple days.

Best case scenario I'm looking at around 1800 to get the 22re rebuilt with the right parts. More like 2200 if I use an RV head with new Toyota lifters.




I was concerned that the starter and fuel filter would be a pain until I unbolted the access panel in the fender well. Sweet!



I also had to go to the junkyard and find the stock engine lift brackets. I pulled them off a super rusty flatbed 80 something truck.



I almost forgot to remove the harness that goes to the AFM













The clutch is a brand new Luk disc with Aisin pressure plate. I'll definitely reuse it.

 

I got er' done this weekend..got it tore down to the shortblock.

Got some cool pictures of the carnage and goofy-ness I found.

First up...now why would anybody do this, I have no idea.



Good stuff...chunks of aluminum???hmmm



Cylinder 1 headgasket damage



Cylinder 4 headgasket damage same as cylinder 1

And...there it is.





Bearing #1 taking a beating





I have to wonder if the oil pump drive sprocket wasn't pressed onto the crank far enough. You can see were it looks as though the sprocket was riding just inside the oil pump gear. Notice the wear marks



I think it was riding like this. As if the sprocket splines were not fully engaged all the way into the oil pump splines.



Drop this pic here for later

 

A friend mentioned drilling the spot welds to remove the battery tray. I'm glad I did and it wasn't very hard. Once the spot welds are drilled I used a short chisel to seperate the tray from the body.

Now that it's loose I can treat the rust and bolt it back in while I search for a clean tray that I can remove from a junkyard truck.

 

The machine shop is just now starting to work on my shortblock.

I did find out something really awesome though today. My Toyota SPX crank tool that I bought like 5 years ago for my 2JZ/1JZ projects fits the 22RE like a glove! There's a picture of it in the service manual as well and that's what tipped me off to try it out.

This is the correct Toyota tool for dealing with the crank bolt and flywheel bolts. The tool is two parts. It's the hub and then the hardened pin and shaft. It works really good when your fighting a 245ft lb 2JZ crank bolt.

Check it out









I checked and toyota spx is no longer. Now it's Bosch OTC tools.

I believe this is the correct hub and bolts.

https://toyota.service-solutions.com...px?id=809&g=12

Handle and pin

https://toyota.service-solutions.com/detail.aspx?id=741

 

I found possibly the cheapest Toyota parts department around. The prices at Boch Toyota South, at least for now beat the price most Toyota dealers would give an employee.

The last time I went all out with a stockish motor build it cost about the same around $3500 give or take

Here are the parts I've ordered to complete the engine build.
EngBldr: $716
Pro-Topline head with Oversized Stainless Steel valves and 268c rv cam 550
4 piece front end kit(not using the DNJ oil pump. I will use the Aisin/Toyota oil pump from rockauto) 166

Rock Auto Parts: $87 w/5% coupon
Aisin oil pump(same as Toyota)
Denso oil filter x 2
Victor Reinz Headbolts

Amazon Parts: $198 shipped
BR-30 joe gibbs engine break in oil(amazon)
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # A426UT grd cable
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # A376UT pos cable
DORMAN Part # 84790 headlight sockets
DENSO Sparkplug wireset OEM Part # 6714137
Dorman Harmonic Balancer

Ebay Parts: $156
22re OEM decal for valvecover
Fuel Injectors(flamethrower 4 hole)
Improved Steering Stops

Bochtoyotasouth.com: $935 shipped
Toyota complete overhaul gasket set #04111-35360 $174
Coolant
FIPG $10
Toyota Oil pump spline drive gear #13434-35010 $19.37
Oil pressure sender #83520-34010 $51
thermostat #90916-03078 $11.93
ac compressor bolt #90099-04950 $.36 x 4
crank bolt #90105-14004 $9.88
keyway x2 #90280-05005 $1.06
fw bolts x6 #90913-01011 $3.61 x6
dipstick #15301-35020 $16.22
intake long hex bolt #90110-08005 $1.94
oil strainer #15104-35010 $69
rocker arm x8 #13801-35010 $30
rocker spring x8 90501-14064 $1.00
rocker adjuster x8 90913-05019 $4.23
rocker nut x8 #90179-08049 $.92
spark plug x4 #90919-01064 $1.73
rocker shaft #13911-35010 $68
rocker shaft #13912-35010 $68
rocker shaft bushings #90560-16008 x2 $5.10
throwout bearing 31230-35070 $43.15
pilot bearing 90363-12002 $5.98
Front cover bolt set $20
Cap 19101-35010 $13.58
Rotor 19102-73021 $8.42
Dist bolt 90119-08307 $1.89
Clutch fork boot/bellows 31126-20060 $11
Clutch fork/arm 31204-20071 $23.54
Pressure Plate bolts x6 $4.08
Engine mount #12302-35120 $80
Engine mount #12301-35210 $106
Toyota Red antifreeze #00272-1LLAC-01 $20

******
******
******

Update 7/8/2014
I decided to get a new distributor gear and a few other pieces.
cam thrust plate 13571-35010 $1.76
cam bolt 90910-02042 $4.20
chain tensioner bolts x 2 91611-60835 $1.42
distributor gear 13515-37900 $45.59


The machine shop has disassembled the block and are checking it to determine what all it needs.

Clutch kit was new Luk disc with Aisin pressure plate so I'm using it.

I'm still debating whether or not I will replace the slave cylinder and clutch hose. I do need the transmission bellows piece though.

I also found some strange wear on the backside of the crank pulley that turns out is from the crank seal!! Common problem apparently...so I ordered a Dorman harmonic balancer

 

I got my head from Engnbldr today and I noticed it didn't have the stainless valves. They sent me the Pro TopLine casting with stock valves and 268 cam, so I'm returning the head to them. They're going to send me the full street rv version. Major props to them for getting me sorted out.

The local machine shop that I use is backed up with high end Supra/GTR/Porsche engines, so my block may take longer than they initially made it sound like it would take due to higher paying customers....

Timewise, it's most likely going to work out ok since I have a lot of parts that need cleaning and or painting anyways and that takes time.

 

I was really curious about the engine mounts and why they're such a mystical unicorn type part.

I ordered the mounts, for $180 and they came with the brackets. The rubber piece by itself isn't listed in the parts guides, but the part number is molded right into the rubber, and it's the SAME for both mounts. I'm going to see if I can get two of them sent my way tomorrow, to save quite a bit of cash on these.

If they can get just the mounts, I'll post the part number for the lucky few who actually read my build thread. That way you can buy relatively affordable OEM rubber mounts from Japan....not Taiwan like the Ebay fakes.

 

Not to start a discussion on this, but here's the low down on the engine mount rubbber isolators.

The part number 12361-35050 that is the rubber isolator piece only for BOTH sides is not available to any dealer in the states. I'm not sure about Japan though....I should know the answer to that soon.

I want to say that Toyota probably stopped producing them due to the amount of Chinese fakes which people are buying.

The ones on Ebay are Chinese fakes. The part number on them is wrong. The number that you see on those is supposed to be the entire assembly[rubber isolator,upper/lower metal brackets].

End rant.

Guess I'll roll the $180 Toyota mounts....which will last for another 20+ years.

jp-parts in Japan can order directly from Toyota who will make a new set of mounts for about $120 shipped and it'll takr them 30 days to make the mounts.

 

I got lots to do...



Toyota engine mounts. The rubber isolator isn't sold through Toyota anymore unfortunately because they were only $40 a piece.




Super impressed with how the DNJ oil pump is packaged. I'm probably going to use the Aisin oil pump though, mainly because it's Made in Japan and is the same as the Toyota Part



I went with a new pickup tube due to the amount of metal in the oil pickup tube.



Everything in the head will be new except the rocker towers. I figure the new hardware will make the Street RV Head run really nice.



New rocker shafts and rocker arms.



New clutch fork, boot and front trans seal. New throw out bearing too since I'm in there



Victor Reinz head bolts and Flamethrower injectors.



Should have the Street RV head back soon and then I'll be waiting on the machine shop.

 

The owner of the machine shop explained in great detail why the chrome plated rings take forever or won't seal. Said the chrome was originally for diesel engine and it used to take a coarse cylinder finish and nobody cared if a diesel smoked for the first 10k miles while they seated. Nowadays the chrome rings have a different break in coating and the cylinder walls take a smoother finish. A lot of shops don't know this and will use the coarse finish on the cyl walls and it files that new break in coating off and the rings never seat and you get low oil pressure like many have reported here.

We decided to take the no nonsense route and use DNJ/rock pistons with Hastings Moly rings. He said the finish in the cylinder walls they will do will have the rings break in and seal within 10 minutes and they will last a really long time.

oh yeah...they are finally starting on the block! Shouldn't be too long now.<---NEVER STARTED TOTAL SHOP FAIL

 

I bought a used engine.

This was out of an 87' so I'll be swapping my intake over and accessories this weekend. It had a recent oil pump, timing set done and the head was also rebuilt.

Hopefully, it'll be good enough to get me down the road until I find a legit shortblock or legit shop to get my shortblock rebuild completed


I'm going out to the salvage yard today to hopefully get some engine hooks. The front hook freaking BENT when I was getting it out of the back of the truck which is really weird. Guess the hook/steel is just too old and fatigued(i pulled it off a really early and rusty toyota pickup)

 

So what happened with that shop man, I see you said they never started it. That really sucks. Hopefully you can get her up and running again.

 

He's putting it on the back burner because it's not a high paying job.

I just found that the #2 exhaust valve on this used motor i bought is covered with oil....just gonna run it though.

 

Cut open the oil filter on this used motor and it's got a lot of debris. A lot more than you'd ever normally want to see. I shoulda bought a cheap rebuilt engine instead...wtf was I thinking.

Had a machinist look at the filter today....yeah it's total crap even though the dirtbag I bought it from is trying to tell me it's normal. He's so full of crap it's not even funny.

 

Went by the machine shop and the block is in the assembly room sittn pretty right now. Shouldn't be long. He's waiting on the correct freeze plugs and he had to work the rods since the big ends were out of round.

I pretty much got everything else done.

New Aisin fan clutch



I replaced the old super cracked power steering pressure line. NON abs



Redline MT-90 in the trans, flushed the diffs and transfer case fluids.

Other than that I need to drop the driveshaft off to have the center bearing changed out, and I need to assemble the rocker valve train.

 

Change of plans!

My friend called me up earlier and told me that he has walked up on this burnt Tacoma at the yard with a complete engine. I went over immediately and bought it. Since the truck cab was burned the guy couldn't warranty it, but he gave me a SMOKING deal on the engine and all the accessories.

Guess I'll be sending the oil pan off to NW Team Toyota next week. My friend also does Toyota/Lexus wiring harness conversions in his spare time so he's gonna show me how that's done.

This is a 2004 2RZ so it has the coil on plug ignition. The engine looks to be in cherry shape, the oil was nice and golden brown with a clean dipstick. The engine is cleaner than it looks in this picture.

I'll still do the timing set/water pump and clean everything up real good.