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rustED's 86' V8-Runner Build-up Thread

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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 09:45 AM
  #681  
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Lol Just read this last page. You guys are funny. Well I wish i had both your skills hahaha

Hey Ed, When you SAS's was it hard to upgrade your rotors? I mean like i hear you can upgrade to some better brakes that would be taken off a different "newer" toyota for more braking power. Something similar to what Mark(chefyota) is doing to his truck, but only for a solid axle. Did you do something like that? I know my solid front axle was off an 8 or 85 toyota pickup, and i know it was a 4 cylinder truck they got it off of. So i'd like some mad braking power on my truck when i upgrade so i'll feel safe driving when driving with 33's or 35's
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 09:52 AM
  #682  
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Originally Posted by Falx
Pictures would be a great visual aid, so I can figure out how I'm going to do mine.
I knew that using a fpr and the electric fuel pump that I would need a return line, but the extent of my knowledge of EFI kind of ends at "the electronics make the fuel pyew-pyew into the engine", so at this point of reading, I wasn't sure if I would have to route my own return or save myself some trouble and get a mechanical pump.

Thanks in advance!
Hi Falx, I took a few pics, hopefully these will help you out.

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^^^ This is the fuel return line that I plugged off. It's the closest one to the charcoal canister. If you decide to run a mechanical fuel pump you'll need to plug this line, otherwise the pump won't draw in fuel.

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^^^ Here's another pic, in this one you can see the fuel line that I re-routed to the driverside to the fuel pump. I hope these help you out, if you need any more pics or info, just let me know. I'm just curious what tranny are you planning to run in yours? Are your getting a bellhousing adapter an staying with a toyota tranny, or going with a ford auto? Look forward to seeing a build thread on yours when the time comes!

Last edited by rustED; Feb 7, 2013 at 09:59 AM.
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 10:20 AM
  #683  
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Yeah, really busy in general.... the rig making that much more so, of course! Lol.

Yeah, the climate control assembly in mine is with its own issues, but im pretty sure thats likely a large portion of the cause/the super stiff heater control valve. Im sure I could just clean mine up a bit, but I have to think that any all metal valve would eventually wear pretty irreversibly, no? The second gen ones are brass or copper insides with plastic housing/But heavy duty, and they open and close with great ease. .....

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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 10:21 AM
  #684  
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^^^I thought I'd throw a random pic up...This is the avalanche I woke up to this morning, lol. This is the second timeI've had to dig out my storage shed in the background, last time it was twice as high, lol.

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^^^ Here's what I came up with for running my wires through the firewall. That big hole used to have a rubber gromet that the EFI wiring harness ran through. I wished I would have kept the gromet, but let it go when I sold all my fuel injection componets on CL. So not wanting mice and other critters coming in I made a metal cover and painted it to match. Then I used an electrical cord grip to run my wires through. I just need to silcone and seel the cover in place.

Last edited by rustED; Feb 7, 2013 at 10:24 AM.
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 10:26 AM
  #685  
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Holy Crapoli! Snowed in , baby! Beautiful .........PITA!
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 10:36 AM
  #686  
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Originally Posted by rustEDyota83
I'm just curious what tranny are you planning to run in yours? Are your getting a bellhousing adapter an staying with a toyota tranny, or going with a ford auto? Look forward to seeing a build thread on yours when the time comes!
Awesome pictures, really helps me, thanks!

As far as the setup goes, I will be using my stock 5-speed, I already have the bellhousing adapter, and three grand worth of parts that I've been sitting on for a year while I try to get everything together.
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 11:05 AM
  #687  
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Hi Mark. I don't know a whole lot on the heater controls and such, I thought I read somewhere that a rear heater was an option on the 4runners, is this correct? That would be a mod that would really interest me, my heater works really well, but not enough to keep the kidoes warm in the back on these cold winter days, lol.



Originally Posted by Redeth005
Lol Just read this last page. You guys are funny. Well I wish i had both your skills hahaha

Hey Ed, When you SAS's was it hard to upgrade your rotors? I mean like i hear you can upgrade to some better brakes that would be taken off a different "newer" toyota for more braking power. Something similar to what Mark(chefyota) is doing to his truck, but only for a solid axle. Did you do something like that? I know my solid front axle was off an 8 or 85 toyota pickup, and i know it was a 4 cylinder truck they got it off of. So i'd like some mad braking power on my truck when i upgrade so i'll feel safe driving when driving with 33's or 35's
Hi Richard. Yeah I did a brake upgrade, I ended up using my original IFS calipers and buying new "slotted" style rotors to replaced the straight axels "solid" style rotors that are prone to overheating and warping under heavy braking situations. Since you have the V6 I'm wondering if you have the better calipers, I want to up grade to the v6 calipers, I think they are larger or have bigger pistons, or something. I also want to upgrade to the 1" bore master cylinder, and eventually rear disc conversion. But my main reseaon for doing the brake rotor swap was to widen my wheel base 3" to match the ifs rearend without running wheel spacers. I know alot of people run wheel spacers, and I'm not knocking them, I know they come in the IFS eliminator kits, It was just a personal preferance for me, and I'm happy with how it turned out. If you decide to go that route you reuse your IFS wheel hubs in place of your SA wheel hubs, (the bearings are the same, by reusing the IFS wheel hubs, because the offset is different than the SA wheel hubs, this is where you gain the 3" total of width 1-1/2" on each side to match the rearend) you reuse your IFS brake calipers and you buy 85' toyota landcruiser brake rotors ($50 for the set at O'reillies)... There is a little drilling involved, but in my opinion it's worth the effort. I can give you more info if your interested.

Originally Posted by Falx
Awesome pictures, really helps me, thanks!

As far as the setup goes, I will be using my stock 5-speed, I already have the bellhousing adapter, and three grand worth of parts that I've been sitting on for a year while I try to get everything together.
Nice! Yeah parts are sure expensive! I think I got a steal buying a parts truck. I bought my 85' pickup with the 302 and all the parts I need for the motor swap (including the front axel) for $1700, lol.

Well if you have any other questions just give me a shout, look forward to seeing some pics of your project!

Last edited by rustED; Feb 7, 2013 at 11:10 AM.
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 11:51 AM
  #688  
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Originally Posted by rustEDyota83
Nice! Yeah parts are sure expensive! I think I got a steal buying a parts truck. I bought my 85' pickup with the 302 and all the parts I need for the motor swap (including the front axel) for $1700, lol.

Well if you have any other questions just give me a shout, look forward to seeing some pics of your project!
I got a good steal on the 302, $125! But it needs love. Lots. Which I found out after I bought the thing.

I've got some pictures of the Big Blue 'Runner here if you care to look at it over the years.
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 05:04 PM
  #689  
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When and IFFF you can keep your foot out of it, what kind of mileage you getting out of your 302? I have always had a soft spot for small block Fords and had a 289 Mustang and from what I remember it was really descent on gas. I really like the 22re but have to say I am disappointed in its mileage at todays gas prices.

A small block wouldnt have to work as hard as the 22re. I am looking at different motor options for on down the road. Wish we lived closer too, I enjoy painting and want to learn fabbing as well.
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 12:25 PM
  #690  
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Originally Posted by Falx
I got a good steal on the 302, $125! But it needs love. Lots. Which I found out after I bought the thing.

I've got some pictures of the Big Blue 'Runner here if you care to look at it over the years.
That's a good deal for the motor, even if it does need some TLC... I checked out your pics, that's a nice looking 4runner, looks like you've done alot of work to it over the years!

Originally Posted by Terrys87
When and IFFF you can keep your foot out of it, what kind of mileage you getting out of your 302? I have always had a soft spot for small block Fords and had a 289 Mustang and from what I remember it was really descent on gas. I really like the 22re but have to say I am disappointed in its mileage at todays gas prices.

A small block wouldnt have to work as hard as the 22re. I am looking at different motor options for on down the road.
Hi Terry. When I moved to our new house back in Sept, on the trip up I got 13.6 MPG in the 4runner, that was mostly freeway miles averaging 70mph. I'm a little dissapointed with that. I'd like to do some research, I think with a little fine tuning, maybe a different carb (I'm still running the 2 barrel that came on the 302 when I got it) maybe I could get the mpg closer to15. I might eventually go with fuel injection, thought about maybe propane, but like I said I'll have to do some research and save up some $$$, lol. As far as power goes I have plenty now, and it feels like the stock 4.10 gears with the 33" is a perfect combo. I could probably up the tire size to 35's but I think I'd change the gears to 4.88's if I was to go any bigger. But for now I'm happy with it, it's fun to drive, and I appreciate it alot more when I do drive it now that I have my 83' for a DD. ON my 83' I have been getting around 16mpg... does that seem about right? I was hoping for closer to 20, but I am running 31's... maybe that's why, lol.
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 12:58 PM
  #691  
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taking notes
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 04:00 PM
  #692  
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Originally Posted by rustEDyota83
That's a good deal for the motor, even if it does need some TLC... I checked out your pics, that's a nice looking 4runner, looks like you've done alot of work to it over the years!
Not too much really, most of the work was just trying to keep it going.

Originally Posted by rustEDyota83
Hi Terry. When I moved to our new house back in Sept, on the trip up I got 13.6 MPG in the 4runner, that was mostly freeway miles averaging 70mph. I'm a little dissapointed with that. I'd like to do some research, I think with a little fine tuning, maybe a different carb (I'm still running the 2 barrel that came on the 302 when I got it) maybe I could get the mpg closer to15. I might eventually go with fuel injection, thought about maybe propane, but like I said I'll have to do some research and save up some $$$, lol. As far as power goes I have plenty now, and it feels like the stock 4.10 gears with the 33" is a perfect combo. I could probably up the tire size to 35's but I think I'd change the gears to 4.88's if I was to go any bigger. But for now I'm happy with it, it's fun to drive, and I appreciate it alot more when I do drive it now that I have my 83' for a DD. ON my 83' I have been getting around 16mpg... does that seem about right? I was hoping for closer to 20, but I am running 31's... maybe that's why, lol.
When it was running, I averaged about 16 around town with my 22RE, which was never all the good I thought. Though, it probably doesn't help that I also live at 6,000 feet above sea level.
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 12:50 AM
  #693  
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Since you are running a 2 barrel on your motor, its primarys are actually larger then a 4 barrels primaries. In some cases you can actually get better mileage with a 4 barrel carb. It has been years since I ran a carburator, but if I recall right my 289 was actually great on gas. Dont remember the gear ratio.

Your 83 on 31s should do better then that. My brothers 88 has basically the same drive train as yours with 31s and is carbed and he says he is getting 23 mpg all the time. On a 22re about the best I have ever gotten is 21mpg and I have had 6 trucks that were 4WD 22re 5 speed transmissions. When I hear some say they are getting 28 mpg on a 4 WD fuel injecton I have to wonder as 2 of my previous trucks had completely rebuilt motors from unitedengine.com

I think it is wyoming that said in a thread fairly recently that when you get above a certain sea level height that if you take your timing to 7 or 8 degrees that it helps when in higher altitudes with performance and mileage on a 22r. I wonder if that could be hurting your 302 as well. ( I will see if I can find that thread again).

I know on my 289, a friend of mine removed alot of the vacuum lines and rerouted them to different areas to where they needed to be and that was the smoothest running motor I have ever seen. I could set a glass of water on the air breather and the ripples were small and it would stay on without vibrating off once it got warmed and just sitting there idling. Is your motor at idle kind of bouncing or vibrating just sitting there? Vacuum has alot to do with the performance. I could tell when it needed new plugs just by watching how it would sit and idle.

I know on my 289 and I have an Olds 350 that when you get above 60- 65, mileage goes down hill quick. There is a magic number where they do great and once you get out of its sweet spot, it will kill your mileage.

I know your gearing has alot to do with it, but my Olds 350 will pull 22 mpg and I am sure it is alot heavier then our Runners.

Last edited by Terrys87; Feb 11, 2013 at 01:15 AM.
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 01:32 AM
  #694  
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I have found several threads on several different sites saying to set your timing on 8degrees for high altitudes. I just cant find what is considered high altitude. Here is a thread that might be useful just to know which screws are for controlling the settings on your 22r carbs >>> http://www.fixya.com/cars/t1006445-2..._high_altitude The numbers are hard to see but they start from the right hand side of the picture and work their way to the left and then go up.

It may have been snobdds where I read his suggestions and still not having much luck with the thread that said what is needed to do for high altitudes.

Last edited by Terrys87; Feb 11, 2013 at 01:34 AM.
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 05:03 AM
  #695  
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Originally Posted by rustEDyota83
Hi Richard. Yeah I did a brake upgrade, I ended up using my original IFS calipers and buying new "slotted" style rotors to replaced the straight axels "solid" style rotors that are prone to overheating and warping under heavy braking situations. Since you have the V6 I'm wondering if you have the better calipers, I want to up grade to the v6 calipers, I think they are larger or have bigger pistons, or something. I also want to upgrade to the 1" bore master cylinder, and eventually rear disc conversion. But my main reseaon for doing the brake rotor swap was to widen my wheel base 3" to match the ifs rearend without running wheel spacers. I know alot of people run wheel spacers, and I'm not knocking them, I know they come in the IFS eliminator kits, It was just a personal preferance for me, and I'm happy with how it turned out. If you decide to go that route you reuse your IFS wheel hubs in place of your SA wheel hubs, (the bearings are the same, by reusing the IFS wheel hubs, because the offset is different than the SA wheel hubs, this is where you gain the 3" total of width 1-1/2" on each side to match the rearend) you reuse your IFS brake calipers and you buy 85' toyota landcruiser brake rotors ($50 for the set at O'reillies)... There is a little drilling involved, but in my opinion it's worth the effort. I can give you more info if your interested.
Yea dude. Thatd be really nice of you if you could. I do rememeber somebody telling me about a v6 rotor swap for a SFA early on my thread. I think it mightve been you. Id like to do this on mine as well because those wheel spacers I have are HUGE; Like 2&1/2-3" each! Lol
Plus I would like to upgrade the stock brakes anyway. Itd be nice to have that axle ready for install with the better brakes already on whenever the time comes ya know.
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 10:46 AM
  #696  
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Thanks for the info Terry, I've heard the same thing about the 4 barrel primaries being smaller than a 2 barrel and possibly getting better mileage with the 4 barrel (if you can keep your foot out of it, lol) and am probably going to go that route. I like the simplicity of the carb compared to all the extra wiring and work involved in doing a fuel injection swap, plus the cost would be cheaper to just do a 4 barrel and manifold.

Thanks for the mgp estimate that you and your brother are getting, I thought my 83' should be getting closer to 20mpg. Thanks for the links on high altitude timing, I will have to check and find out what the elevation is where we live and see if advancing the timing will be helpful to the mpg on my rigs!

Last edited by rustED; Feb 12, 2013 at 10:50 AM.
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 11:15 AM
  #697  
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Originally Posted by Redeth005
Yea dude. Thatd be really nice of you if you could. I do rememeber somebody telling me about a v6 rotor swap for a SFA early on my thread. I think it mightve been you. Id like to do this on mine as well because those wheel spacers I have are HUGE; Like 2&1/2-3" each! Lol
Plus I would like to upgrade the stock brakes anyway. Itd be nice to have that axle ready for install with the better brakes already on whenever the time comes ya know.
Hi Richard. Man I wish I would have taking the time to do a step by step write up on the brake caliper/rotor/wheel hub swap back at the time when I did it. I think there are some writeups out there tho, I"ll see if I can find some links. I know some people have done the swap and used newer Tacoma calipers (and maybe rotors, can't remember) but they had to run bigger wheels (like 17" ) because the 15" rims wouldn't clear the calipers. I remember you saying that your wheelin buddies had some 33's that you were going to get, so if they are for 15" wheel you'd probably want to stick with your stock V6 calipers. Anyway the only real expense is the cost of new landcruiser rotors ($50) and you need to buy (4) 1/2" x 2" bolts, nuts and lockwashers. then it's just a matter of drilling out your knuckles (the 2 holes in the mounting flange that the calipers bolt to) out to accomidate the bigger bolts, drilling out the mounting holes in the calipers to match, and a little bit of grinding (you actually end up mounting your calipers on the opposite side of the mounting flange because of the differnce in the offset of the IFS wheel hubs.) You also eliminate the brake dust sheild completely (I just drilled out the riviets and removed it) It's pretty straight forward, I had never even dis-assembled a front axel before my build, so if I can do it anyone can, lol! If I can't find any good writeups/ threads, I'll pull a wheel off my runner and post some pics of my setup.

Last edited by rustED; Feb 12, 2013 at 11:33 AM.
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 08:36 AM
  #698  
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what's new ed? did all that snow melt yet?
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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 05:04 PM
  #699  
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Yup what's up Ed !!!!!!!!
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 12:53 AM
  #700  
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Originally Posted by liveoffroad
what's new ed? did all that snow melt yet?
Hey live, snows slowly melting, got 3" yesterday!...haven't done much to the 4runner lately, started working on my offroad camping trailer project again, hopefully I'll finish it before summer!

Originally Posted by Chuckar
Yup what's up Ed !!!!!!!!
SUP CHUCK!
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