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New to me 87 4runner...

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Old 05-09-2016, 04:11 AM
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Long hair is for larger patches short for smaller
Old 05-09-2016, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by chbarnha
I went with 31x10.50 again. I eventually want to go bigger but that will be a little bit. When I decide to do that ill have to just get new tires again. Ive been reading about it tonight at work and it looks like either short or long hair fiberglass is what I need to go with, and then a light layer of body filler to smooth out the fiberglass after that at least from what I can gather.

What exactly do you do for work anyway? Seems like we are pretty much on the same schedule.

I was wondering if "Chop Strand" fiberglass cloth would work, or something similar. Since all my rust issues are focused primarily on the passenger side rear quarter panel/wheel well area, my idea was to remove the interior panel and clean up all the loose rust from the inside of the quarter panel removing any of the really thin material. Then after treating it with POR15 or Chassis Saver (which is Monstaliner version) use the chop strand fiberglass cloth and resin and lay it down from the inside first. There probably wouldn't be much left to do from the outside, finish it of with a little bit of bodying filler.



https://www.gulfstreamcomposites.com....5oz_50in_yard


I work at a plywood mill, specifically the "green end" where we peel logs into veneer, (basically a giant wood lathe). The other side of the mill is the "dry end" where they run the veneer through the dryers, lay up line and press and it comes out the finished product. They run 24/7 and I work swing shift 3 pm to 11pm. Mondays and Tuesday are my weekend...how about you, what do you do for work?




.

Last edited by rustED; 05-09-2016 at 06:40 AM.
Old 05-09-2016, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 92ehatch
Long hair is for larger patches short for smaller
That's kinda what I was thinking. The long hair one is more structurally strong I am assuming due to the longer hair. I think I may just go with the long hair variety if that is the case.


I need to get started on it before it gets any worse that for sure. I work in the emergency room as a medic on 7p to 7a shift. My schedule is usually sunday Monday Tuesday. right now I am working 5 12s a week though, overtimes available and I have a bunch of hobbies so I need all the money I can get. Ill do that until we get to the national and world time of the year for softball and then its hunting season.
Old 05-10-2016, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rustED
I was wondering if "Chop Strand" fiberglass cloth would work, or something similar. Since all my rust issues are focused primarily on the passenger side rear quarter panel/wheel well area, my idea was to remove the interior panel and clean up all the loose rust from the inside of the quarter panel removing any of the really thin material. Then after treating it with POR15 or Chassis Saver (which is Monstaliner version) use the chop strand fiberglass cloth and resin and lay it down from the inside first. There probably wouldn't be much left to do from the outside, finish it of with a little bit of bodying filler.



https://www.gulfstreamcomposites.com....5oz_50in_yard


I work at a plywood mill, specifically the "green end" where we peel logs into veneer, (basically a giant wood lathe). The other side of the mill is the "dry end" where they run the veneer through the dryers, lay up line and press and it comes out the finished product. They run 24/7 and I work swing shift 3 pm to 11pm. Mondays and Tuesday are my weekend...how about you, what do you do for work?




.



I actually rebuilt the area behind the plastic wheel quarter cover with that stuff. I had it from boating repairs where it was called fiberglass mat. I think I showed it in my attempt at a build thread. I did it in the winter of 2012 and the repair is still fine. I went in behind the panels to fix it. I made up epoxy with additives that made it like peanut butter and impregnated the mat with it. Taped the old plastic wheel quarter cover covered in wax paper til it dried. Lots of duct tape to hold the mold in place. I think this is what is called cold molding. I also touched up around the rotted wheel wells. The fiberglass was done in two layers and is as thick as the metal. I' very happy with the repair. LMK if you need help buying the materials. I used Rage body filler at less than 1/8" for a final sandable top coat. Fiberglass is No Bueno to sand.
Old 05-10-2016, 03:34 PM
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Thanks for the info nervo19, looks like I will be purchasing some of the fiberglass cloth as well.
Old 05-11-2016, 10:39 AM
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Good info Nervo, I checked out your build thread, very informative, thanks!
Old 05-11-2016, 06:52 PM
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Well I got tired of having the old radio and crappy speakers that sounded awful. I don't have it all the way complete as I'm contemplating puttin a sub or some roll at speakers in it but it is actually enjoyable to listen to now.


Jvc radio with the usb and auxiliary ports. Not the most expensive radio made, but it has all of the features I wanted.




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Old 06-18-2016, 01:24 PM
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Well this happened today..... Hopefully get 2 or 3 hundred thousand more out of it
Old 06-18-2016, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by chbarnha
I now have to find a gasket to go between my topper and the cab. During a torrential downpour today it began leaking. I called the dealership in town and they say they don't carry it anymore. Has anybody used regular "weatherstripping" in between the two? It doesn't look like I will be able to find a factory replacement so im going to have to figure something out.
This might be a little late but softopper.com has replacement weather stripping for sale. I hope this helps!

Edit: I just looked on the website and they don't carry it by itself anymore but I'm sure you can call and special order it.

Last edited by bschrader; 06-18-2016 at 02:12 PM.
Old 08-04-2016, 05:58 PM
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Well the 4runner has been giving me some issues lately to the point that it was placed on craigslist. Everybody wanted to offer between 1k or 1800. I just couldn't part with it for that. I am trying something to fix one of the problems I have been having with it. Im hoping that this will fix it. The transmission in 1st and 3rd gear you almost have to hold it in gear. Its not pushing it out of gear, its almost like its just sliding out. I just ordered the shifter bushing and seat from Marlin Crawler and I hope maybe that is my problem. Has anyone else ever had this issue.
Old 08-05-2016, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by chbarnha
Well the 4runner has been giving me some issues lately to the point that it was placed on craigslist. Everybody wanted to offer between 1k or 1800. I just couldn't part with it for that. I am trying something to fix one of the problems I have been having with it. Im hoping that this will fix it. The transmission in 1st and 3rd gear you almost have to hold it in gear. Its not pushing it out of gear, its almost like its just sliding out. I just ordered the shifter bushing and seat from Marlin Crawler and I hope maybe that is my problem. Has anyone else ever had this issue.

Sounds like a broken synchro inside the box. I have one that does the same thing. I plan on sending the whole unit to Marlin Crawler for overhaul since I do not have the tools to do it myself. Easy fix, just expensive. The seat will help but in the end its broken parts. Too bad you are so far away, my '88 is dying of rust, as the body is ready to fall off the frame. My engine blew at 338k with a rod out the side. Maybe now is a good time for an overhaul?
Old 08-05-2016, 09:20 AM
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Not sure if you've completely given up on it but I just realized you live decently close by. If you do need some help one weekend I'm down in Norfolk and could lend a hand. I can't afford to work on my own truck right now so helping you out would help me to scratch my itch to work on these trucks.
Old 08-07-2016, 03:17 PM
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I can barely afford to work on it myself, going to school and trying to fix a vintage vehicle is rough. I haven't completely given up on it, just getting frustrated. How much does it generally cost to get marlin crawler to overhaul it? I had broken synchro in my 84 and it wouldn't even let me hold it in gear. This will let me hold it in gear its just like the bushing is worn out. Its like its loose and there is nothing to hold it in. Im hoping this will fix it but it sounds like maybe that wont be it.
ARLINDSAY, sounds good. Do you ride yours anywhere around here or is yours a daily driver? Guy from Norfolk actually asked me about buying mine today, but he said he was gonna hold off.
Old 08-07-2016, 03:30 PM
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I moved to the area about a year ago and don't know of any places real close to here. Within a few hours drive is George Washington National Forest and Roush Creek. Haven't been to either one. There were a lot of little local spots in West Virginia where I went to school and one nice little local spot in Northern Virginia where I'm from. I've never done a trans rebuild on one of these trucks but I've done one on a Honda Civic once. I think sending it off might be a bit cost prohibitive, but the rebuild kits with synchros and bearings are probably a couple hundred dollars.
Old 08-07-2016, 03:36 PM
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I just went through your build thread, looks like body work is your thing. Truck looks pretty much new. I may try to take some pictures of what I did yesterday. It was my first time doing anytype of body work. I May have to do a transmission rebuild, im going to try the marlin seat and bushing first and see what that does. There used to be a guy in Newport news that did tranny rebuilds at petes towing and recovery, might have to call down there and see if he is still around.
Old 08-07-2016, 03:37 PM
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To get my body work looking anywhere near as good as yours I may have to buy a welder and just wing it. Only way to learn is to do it.
Old 08-07-2016, 03:54 PM
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This is the passenger side front fender before I started.

For the first time attempting body work I was pretty pleased with how this one came out.

This is over the right rear fender well.....

Still needs some final sanding and finish work. Still not completely unsatisfied with the progress.

This was also on the passenger side...

This is as far as I got before it started raining.



Still have these two holes behind the rear wheel wells to fix.

If anyone has any pointers or criticism they are more than welcomed.
Old 08-07-2016, 03:54 PM
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Bodywork is just my newest thing because I wanted my truck to look a bit better. I'd be willing to help with anything else too. I'm much more comfortable under the hood.
Old 08-07-2016, 03:58 PM
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I may have to take you up on that, the body work you did on yours came out great. As you can tell by the pictures above its definitely a learning process. Feel like a kindergartener.
Old 08-07-2016, 04:06 PM
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The front fender looks pretty good for a first attempt. I had rust holes in exactly the same places and then some.

Unless there is an obvious scratch that started it, the rust usually starts from the inside and works its way out. So if you remove everything you see from the outside, there is still more rust on the inside which will eventually eat away everything your filler is attached to leaving you with the same rust as before but worse. What you did will buy you a couple years. For a longer lasting repair, cut out all the rust, verify from the inside of the panel if possible, then weld in new metal and smooth it out with filler. Once done, it's best to coat the inside of the repair so it doesn't just rust again.

Before diving into doing bodywork, I'd suggest thinking about your real goals for the truck. Do you want it to look showroom fresh and just drive it on the street? Or do you want something you won't be afraid to have fun with offroad? I have a bit of buyer's remorse because it truly is a lot of work and the paint wasn't cheap. If you have any interest I could show you the ropes on one of those rusty spots one weekend just to get you started. But if you just want to clean it up to sell, or if you see it becoming an offroad toy, consider if it's really worth it.


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