Thanks for the reminder! I've been told about them before, and called them looking for a bumper, but no luck. But I'll reach out again. Funny how it seems that all these specialized junkyards these days have high prices and not particularly cooperative owners, like they are doing you a service by charging you an arm and a leg for parts. I guess they know that it's a seller's market out there.

Is it the kind of place you can go to and browse, or do you have to ask at the counter for what you need?

 

I've been able to go and browse for what I want in the past by being a little pushy about it...hard to describe some of the little trim pieces. They will pull it for you. Price wise it's best if you can pile on a bunch of little stuff they'll have a hard time looking up with a bigger ticket expensive item. Junkyard owners for whatever reason do seem to be a certain type, but the guy does (or did) curate a nice selection of vehicles and was careful about not letting them get raided.

 

Yes, the cost sounded reasonable to me, all the more so after the first place I went to wanted $250 for the job. That to me is a clear indication of someone who doesn't really need/want the work, unless I make it worth their while.

Thanks for the painting suggestion - I'll hit the rusty spots with some Rust Reformer first, then gloss black!

 

Great, I'll stop by sometime and check it out. I need to go to Longview to look at some parts, so Vancouver will be right on the way.

 

I finished painting the seat frame:

 

In other developments, I tried my newly reworked window switches, and they stopped working after a few tries. And I smelled that lovely smell of burnt electronics. Took out the relay module and saw that it's fried. In the area that I repaired. So time for more headscratching, since I'm not really an electronics guy.

 

there appear to be some cold solder joints on that board.

looking at the top side, is there visible damage to the components?

 

Here are the photos of the top - I don't see anything obvious, but the whole thing smells awful. So I strongly suspect that something got fried,a and it's not just a matter of broken traces. But again, I'm not a circuit board guy, so I don't even know where to start on this:





There are definitely some broken joints on this board now, so it definitely saw some serious current. Looking back at my photo before I did anything, I think I missed one broken trace. I fixed the one broken trace that was mentioned in other posts (circled in red), but I think the area in blue was also a problem, which I missed:




Looking at hat I have now, I seem to have a number of broken traces (in blue), including the one I fixed originally. I think at this point I have nothing to lose, so I'll solder the broken ones and see what happens. If that doesn't work, I'll buy another relay module. The final option is to just bypass this delicate module and use some more robust relays to do the job.

 

i think that re-soldering those cold joints that you located is the right idea... when testing it, i'd say leave the cover off and see if you can verify what part is getting hot, maybe by touch but be careful just blip the window switch for a second or two and see if anything feels hot.

don't touch the trace on the circuit board with the soldering iron, and use one of those spring-loaded solder suckers.

the good news about a primitive board like that is that all of the discrete components can be easily replaced, and we have the schematic to see how it works... those 3-leg transistors for instance will typically blow out the side, not seeing that here so it's good news, they can also be unsoldered and tested with a meter if i remember correctly.

the Omron g8u 114p 01t(?) can be replaced as well, just need to cross-reference it to a newer part number which in this case is proving difficult but i was able to find this, can you speak japanese :-0 https://www.ia.omron.com/sitesearch/...27&y=8&lang=en

same relay in 80-series: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bad...-relay.788146/

 

I think you're right, and if I was better with a soldering iron and a DVM, I can probably get it to work, perhaps with some new components. But my skills are limited in this area, and the burnt smell suggested that something has given up the ghost, and I don't know what that "something" is (may be the actual board plastic melting?). So I sprung for a replacement module on Ebay, it's a better use of my time/money than monkeying with this one. I think if that one doesn't fix it, I'll just put in some good relays and bypass the board. I don't need the timer feature of the board.

BTW, you said "we have the schematic" - do you have a good source for the schematic of the relay module? It shows up like a black box in my FSM. I can probably reverse engineer what wire goes to which contact on the relays, but a schematic would be nice.

 

i made a mistake on thinking that we had schematics in this thread for that circuit card, but it's probably out there somewhere, for instance see the details on the rear window relay circuit board: https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTr...arWindow01.gif

it even shows one shottkey diode, which looks like this: https://www.electricaltechnology.org...tky-diode.html

without any values listed it would be more difficult to repair, but probably not impossible... i replaced the rear window relays on my '86 4runner circuit board, which use Omron g8s 114p 02t, i was able to find cheap relays on digikey by cross-referencing part numbers, they were easy to solder in, but now i don't know what relays i used :-/ it was a common part, used on washing machines and other appliances, but went out of stock during covid i don't know if production ever resumed.

 

Yeah, I glaze over at "shottky diode" .

So, I think I have the schematic figured out, based on my FSM Wiring Diagram Supplement:






But of course there's a "but" - the way I read those diagrams, there are three relays in the module - two for door locks and one for power windows. But the board only has two relays? Or is that coil in lower right also a relay?



Interestingly, my "fried" board still operates the door locks just fine, in both directions. So, I think that I can just bypass the power window relay with an external one, and be back in business (without needing the relay module I just bought). I'll lose the ability to open/close windows after ignition key is off, but I can live with that. I'm a little afraid to plug in the new relay module in case it gets fried too? Is that possible?

 

the concern might be with shorted wiring blowing out something on the board? what i would do is plug in the new relay but leave the case off of it and just briefly blip the power window switch, then feel the circuit board for hot spots... if it's cool double the run time, then check for heat again, etc.

without knowing what those chips are it's difficult to tell... the big coil has one of the fried solder connections tho, which does indicate it's for the power windows, you could do the brief heat test on the soldered connection to see if heats up when the windows are actuated.

another approach would be to post photos on electronic forums to get help identifying the parts: https://forum.digikey.com/c/support/...ntification/20

 

Good suggestion, I'll try the quick-clicks of the window switch with the new relay module and see if I find anything of concern.

 

I have a "small" project for my upholstery guy. Yes it's a Frankenstein of mismatched years and trucks, but where there's a will there's a way right?







Did the wasps' nest come OEM from Toyota, or is that aftermarket?

 

I got the lower cushion back from the upholstery shop. He transplanted the replacement bolster piece I gave him into the cover, and also transferred the bolster foam from the passenger cushion onto my seat cushion. He also reinforced all the areas of the cushion foam where the retaining wires are. Cost was about $190, not cheap, but I was happy with the results and that's worth a lot to me.

Here are the repaired foam cushion and cover:





I attached the cover to the foam with some hog rings, looks really good:



And just for reference, here's what the original bolster looked like. Quite an improvement:

 

Another small success today. My heater only worked on High, which pointed the finger to the resistor. I took out the old resistor, and it certainly looked like it's seen better days:




Here's the new Toyota resistor:



Side by side:




And lo and behold, works like a charm. So satisfying for $10 and an hour's work.

Before:


After:

 

I'm narrowing down the power window issue. I got the replacement module today, and most functions work perfectly, without heating the relay module. But the passenger side window does not want to go up, same issue I had with the other module until I fried it. If I apply current directly to the motor leads, it goes up and down very easily and quickly. But not through the switches.

So, I attached battery leads to the upstream side of the passenger side switch. That moved the passenger window up, but very grudgingly. My suspicion is that there is excessive resistance in the switch contacts of the two swtiches. When I tested all my switch contacts, most were at 1 ohm or less, but one was 5-8 ohms. I'll have to look at my notes, but I bet that was the one needed for passenger window up movement. So what I think happens is that the multiple contacts needed to complete the circuit add up to an excessive amount of resistance, leading to inability to raise the windows.

I'll look at my switches again and see if I can reduce the resistance even more. I read that one poster ended up soldering all of his window switch fixed/riveted contacts. Maybe I'll try that. It's not like I can get a new replacement switch. At least I think I now know where the problem lies.

 

yes, that's a very rare oem organic seatbelt buzzer!

 

looks great! 👍🏼