I was referring to like an overall aspect of clearance. When my rear is flexed to the bump, I have like an inch of clearance between the wheel well and tire.

 

Looks amazing! It has come a long way. Keep up the amazing work.

 

MC, you can see what my truck looks like at full bumps with 31x10.50's in my latest build post. I'm sure you probably already know what it looks like, but I'm seeing some necessary fender trimming to run 33x12.50's and retain stock height.

 

Yeah, I'm not opposed to trimming. I guess I didn't really make that clear.

 

Oh, haha, yeah. You should be fine then.

 

I'm not sure if anyone has comment it, but I was just reading your first post again. I love the way you started it. Very creative in using a quote.

 

DZUS fasteners.

 

so how is the alternator treating you? i just ordered one.

 

No problems yet, but I really haven't put much of a load on it.

 

Hey man..Ive already subscribed..but I just had to drop a line to say its comming alot Great man! I love the tan rattle can job..Might do that till i can get it sprayed proper..

 

In the time that I am not at work, not working on my wife's Dart or my friend's 'Cuda, not working on my XLCH or my XS650, and not spending time with my wife and daughter, and not hanging out on Yotatech, I am actually slowly getting things done!

I just came inside after finishing with a Zuk mod. I gained (recovered?) 3" in the rear using 14" springs and cutting the top bump stops. Compressing the springs was accomplished using two ratchet straps, a pry bar, and finally a hammer to tap it in. I wish I had done this sooner! Now I should be able to easily fit my new/used 33x12.50s, at least in back. Thanks to Zuk and the others who have documented and experimented with this mod.

I also completed my removable door mod. It was a really long, expensive ordeal. $3.96 before tax and about 20 minutes. I'll get some pics tomorrow. As usual, it was dark by the time I stopped playing.

 

Pics:

Top bump stop turned spring retainer.


Final stance


With 33x12.50 mocked-up


My quick-detach door hinges. I originally wanted to use a lynch pin for the hinge, but I would have had to grind down the head of the pin to clear the bolt heads, and then would have had to rotate the pin just right in order to fit. Possible? Yes. Preferred? Not so much. So I found a better, cheaper, easier way.
]

All it took was four $.99 5/16" J-bolts from True Value. They even came with nuts, which I didn't need. The modification was simple- I removed the doors (4 12mm bolts per side), then cut the hinge pins with an angle grinder. I worked the looser half of the hinge pin out with a screwdriver and pliers, then used a 5/16" bolt as a punch to tap the other half out. I cleaned up the hinges a little, hit them with WD40 and remounted the door, substituting the J-bolts for the hinge pins. The top pin had to be inserted from the bottom, but the weight of the door seems to be holding it in well. I may still cross drill the bolts and add a retainer pin. I have had these on for over a month, now, and they haven't budged an inch. Operation is silent and seems to be just as tight as the factory hinges. I did disconnect the assembly that is designed to hold the door open on a hill. I was going to reattach it, but I accidentally let the plunger go back inside the door. So far, I haven't missed it. I can always hook it back up later, if I want to.

 

cool work, congratulations !...

 

Nice work!

 

The truck's true "Maiden Run" is so far, a success. We drove through Yosemite from Oakhurst to Mammoth Lakes and have been camping in it for the last week. The lack of interior bed panels is actually pretty nice. I am able to fit a lot of gear in there. The back seats that were just installed were takeoffs from (iirc) a '94 limited. They are easily the most comfortable seats in the truck. A couple of the hinge bolt holes don't line up perfectly, but I was able to fit some things and make them work. The versatility of the canvas top is outstanding, and according to my friend who rode in back yesterday, the spacing of the uprights was perfect for the rear passenger.

We drove up almost all the way to Laurel Lake (http://www.gbr.4wdtrips.net/4x4/laurel.htm) before hitting snow and stopping. The hike was nice. I'll get some pics up when I get home. The truck did well. The only carnage (if it could really be called that) is that my "4wd" light stopped working. The four wheel drive still works, so I will put off figuring the light out until later, if ever. Lockers and tires should be my next improvement, time and budget permitting.

The truck could certainly be happier with more oxygen. I replaced most of the vacuum lines after we got here because I was bored and they were a bit bubbly from the fire. It does idle better.

I'm late to go relax. Pics later. MC

 

The 4 wheel drive light wire is pretty accessible on the passenger side of the t-case. It may have just come unplugged or the wire might have broke?

 

Thanks SAS'D. Turns out it decided to fix itself. The connection is probably loose or something. The temp gauge is another story. I have had issues with it as long as I have had the vehicle. I might have to start figuring a better place for a better sensor or something, and upgrade to a "real" temp gauge.

Took a short drive with the top rolled up and the baby in back. I was wondering how much wind there would be and how much it would bother her. Turns out, she loves it. There is just enough wind to keep one of her toys (which is attached to the car seat carry handle) moving and interesting, and she was doing quite a bit of just checking out the town, too.

We took another run up to the Laurel Lake area yesterday and checked out a couple of side roads. My passenger side corner marker-turned turn signal lost a disagreement with a tree. This is a blessing in disguise, as I had been planning my front bumper build without much upper corner protection. That plan has now been improved. I may just put oval "Napa special" LED amber lights in the bumper for turn signals. The signal still works and is psuedo-legal due to having an amber LED bulb in it. It just lacks the required side reflectors, now.

 

 

Here are the pics. I snagged them off my friend's facebook, so I don't know what kind of quality they will end up being. My camera is sucking more every day. I guess you aren't supposed to take them swimming with you or something like that.




We ended up parking behind the Jeep and hiking the rest of the way to the lake. The next switchback was accessible, but after that the trail was covered in snow. As I STILL haven't found time to have my new / Malteserunner's old tires mounted, and I didn't feel like getting stuck or sliding off a mountain, we chose the better part of valor and hiked. We met some strange insane people on the way who had hiked in the snow up to the top of a 10,000' peak, just to ski back down to their Tacoma and go home.



The majority of the trail was pretty mild. There was about 125 yards, though, where stock clearance, open diffs and fairly poor tires required a little work to get over. No carnage on the trail, but these photos are the last proof of the existence of my right turn signal lens due to an argument with an Aspen the next day.





I went down to Trail Gear today and got a wench plate to start my bumper off of. The steel yard gave me a good price on scrap, and I was able to get most (if not all) of my materials for my bumpers. I'm going with 2"x5" 1/4" wall tube for the majority of both front and rear bumpers, with a bit of bracing using 1 1/2" square tubing and some 1/4" plate. It will be stout and heavy, but it will be strong. This should give me a base to build an expanded metal grill off in front, and eventually swing-out tire/jerry can/jack mounts in the rear.

 

Ok, here is a question for the engineers among you- My rear bumper will consist of 1/4" wall steel, with an internal volume of just under 1000 cu in. I have no idea what size a typical off-road style air tank is. Am I spinning my wheels thinking about using the bumper(s) as air tank(s)? Is it safe to assume that 1/4" steel is thick enough to handle whatever pressure the A/C compressor will be able to put out? I think Maltese is running 110 PSI. I have previously considered putting an air tank where the stock fuel tank is, and relocating a fuel cell to the current spare tire location. If the bumpers would be sufficient for air, then I could run either two spare tires or dual fuel tanks.

I won't be changing the A/C to OBA until the R12 runs out, so in the meantime, I would be charging the bumpers/air tanks elsewhere.