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Anybody in the Perry Hall/White Marsh/N. Baltimore area have a welder I can use? I picked up those seats and I was going to use a neighbors MIG welder but the garage burndt down (not mine!) I've already cleaned up the rails on the RSX seats, saved the brackets for one seat and will be salvaging the brackets off the broken passenger seat. Any love? This weekend?!
Not a much was completed on the T4R this weekend. I fiddled around with the winch control. The PO removed the remote antenna and put in a pickup antenna... so I have the switch down/neutral/up switch inside... so I'm going to use that as my winch control because the wire harness and connection I have for the XRC-8 is all destroyed. I might need to turn the winch around based on the location of the hole on the bumper for the cable.
I did find out that my rear window defroster wasn't working, so with some investigating I found out the connectors broke away from the wire harness, so I replaced those connectors... so I'll hopefully get a working rear window defroster. I also ordered a handful of items for the AFM/Battery swap that I'll do down in Virginia at my parents house over thanksgiving. Its hard doing stuff here without having help and almost no parts stores within the immediate area. That and I feel like this is a big task considering I'll do the Jaguar XJ6 alternator swap, the big 3 upgrade, the AFM/battery swap and the Supra/Cressida swap all at once.
Nice! Please keep us posted on the battery-intake swap. It just makes sense o me (cleaner layout, less restriction, no heat transfer from radiator to intake tube.), although I plan to keep the stock airbox like 4crawler did.
Ho do you plan to run the intake? I'm thinking of running it straight through the fender like this on the Mercedes G-Class, but keep opening round (like inside here) and minimal so it will not spoil fitting of snorkel in the future.
I need to grab 8ft of wire (unknown gage currently - advice?) ...
I would check if any of the wires carry heavy load (which I doubt). If they do not, gauge 18 should be thicker than stock.
I'll bring the power for fuse box and a few other accessories to a secondary fuse block. Currently I power the fuse box, the subwoofer and the starter right off the battery.
I would still directly power accessories from the battery (through a fuse as physically close as possible to the battery), although OK to physically place the fuse block in any strategic location.
Originally Posted by paynemw
S...After doing some research I found out that early 90's Honda Civic seats bolt right in. ...2000's Acura RSX...
I really like the feel of Honda-Acura seats, they're firm and make one sit straight up and alert, unlike Toyota's that make one slouch, as if ready to nap in a soft couch..
Nice! Please keep us posted on the battery-intake swap. It just makes sense o me (cleaner layout, less restriction, no heat transfer from radiator to intake tube.), although I plan to keep the stock airbox like 4crawler did.
How do you plan to run the intake? I'm thinking of running it straight through the fender like this on the Mercedes G-Class, but keep opening round (like inside here) and minimal so it will not spoil fitting of snorkel in the future.
I would check if any of the wires carry heavy load (which I doubt). If they do not, gauge 18 should be thicker than stock.
I would still directly power accessories from the battery (through a fuse as physically close as possible to the battery), although OK to physically place the fuse block in any strategic location.
I really like the feel of Honda-Acura seats, they're firm and make one sit straight up and alert, unlike Toyota's that make one slouch, as if ready to nap in a soft couch..
What I think I'm going to do is grab another silicone 90* bend and temporarily run my stock AFM and airbox until I pick up another (correct) 22RE AFM for the 1986 22RE. I got a later model AFM for a 22RE but it does not share the same size "guts" that are needed for the cressida housing. So far I haven't really thought past doing the swap. I do have another louvre that I might cut up a bit and make some vent like the Mercedes you had linked.
Here's the Cressida set up...
expand on your comment about the fuse block for me? When I say accessories, I mean items that are not the winch or sub. where can I get fuseable link wire for a decent price?
Originally Posted by Erik Hinch
Sis
Subscribed!!!
What part of Va are you gonna be in over thanksgiving. I am near the TN line. Just outside of Bristol.
What I think I'm going to do is grab another silicone 90* bend and temporarily run my stock AFM and airbox until I pick up another (correct) 22RE AFM for the 1986 22RE.
Cool. I like the idea of keeping stock airbox. I'm curious to see how stock airbox would work on the swap ... I hope 4Crawler can comment on this:
(1) Swing AFM 180 degrees, so its outlet still faces inboard/facing Throttle body, then
(2) Could we simply bring airbox over to the passenger side (without rotating) so it's intake port faces fender?
Above would be a clean swap.
expand on your comment about the fuse block for me? When I say accessories, I mean items that are not the winch or sub. where can I get fuseable link wire for a decent price?
Nothing complicated. A large fuse as close to battery as possible, to wire of proper size to handle total current to accessories distribution fuse box (like Blue Sea)
You can install fuse distribution fuse box either on right or left side.
Here is one of my late model RSX seats... fit in the truck nice and snug... I need to figure out what to do with the side airbag though. I might try to salvage them and sell them. I'll make one good seat out of my two 4Runner seats and sell that (the driver seat with passenger seat padding and covers) and trash the rest because the slide is falling apart. the rails are 1/2 in wider than the 4runner slides... so I'll be using the brackets from these and the 4runner seats to install. I just have to cut them off and re-weld them in the proper spots. Overall, well kept seats that just need some minor cleaning to get the dirt off.
I had ordered my front & rear bumper at the same time from Addicted Offroad along with some sliders. I guess they were overloaded with orders and I only got my front bumper. I waited four months and I hit them up asking about the order and Scotty got it fixed in a jiffy. From response of email to delivery was one week. Sliders are upstairs in a box.
And some other sexy parts... hmm
So these are the same mil spec battery terminals that I listed on page 3, but I ended up grabbing a kit... and that blue thing is my 17mm drill bit to use for the XJ6 Alternator swap.
pretty blue sea!
Aisin Clutch Master Cylinder... gotta replace the one in the truck because it's leaking into the cab (UHH!!!)
And this is the same thing that is on the hood of my truck. Anyone want to buy it? $30 shipped! PM for details.
Got some work done over the weekend. Friday night I primered and painted the rear bumper. Saturday morning first thing I took the original bumper off and bolted up the new bumper. At the same time I lowered the spare and did a quick clean up of the cross member that is decently rusted. However, the rest of the under side of the body and frame looks great. The spare needs some help. I need to start thinking of options for a spare, where to carry it and how I'm going to do that. There's no way a 33" will fit under there currently. I mean maybe?!
I also put in the aisin clutch master cylinder. I need to adjust the pedal a bit, but other than that, i bench bled it and went right in no issues. very quick job.
Sunday I ran over to RBX's house and he hooked it up. We tore the old seats out, and we welded the old brackets to the new seat rails. I have a few things to clean up, but I'm stoked to have nice firm seats.
RB, one of the welds on that front left bracket broke, so I think running some more welds on those will fix everything. Outside of that one thing, everything is awesome. they slide without issue and seem to work great. I do need to bore out two of the holes on the back inside brackets for both seats, then paint them. But I'm stoked. Thanks for the help. Hopefully your kids buddy can use the old seats.
After a good discussion and some more research, I will be side-lining the Cressida AFM swap. So if you add a larger AFM housing with the 22RE "guts" you get more air flow. Well unfortunately, there are only three outputs on the narrowband O2 sensor. So without going into the details now (without all of my references) it is not smart to do the swap unless you go to a wideband O2, get better injectors, and get a header. I will fall outside of the stoic output and the goal of a 14.7:1 air fuel ratio to achieve maximum fuel efficiency.
I can still do the battery AFM location swap, put new donuts on the exhaust collector/manifold and I can still work towards getting everything set up to do the Cressida AFM swap.. but I'll just wait to do that later.
Thanks RB for the help this weekend and good convo on fuel efficiency and air/oil separator.
Edit:
Found this on 22rte-trucks.com posted by this dude vwguy1968:
Hello sir. This type of modification is not for the faint of heart, it requires knowledge of Toyota EFI fuel calculation. There is a VERY good site dedicated to this: www.autoshop101.com It is not as simple as the normal joe will tell you. Here is what you are looking at... math. First you need to calculate the area of the opening of the original VAFM, as compared to the bigger one. You use: Pi xR xR. Meaning: 3.14xradiusxradious.
Stay with me now, I've done the
math for you!
The area of the stock turbo (2.5 in diameter) VAFM= 3.14x1.25 in. x1.25 in.= 4.90625 sq. in.
The area of the stock 7MGE (3 in. i believe) VAFM= 3.14x1.5 in. x1.5 in.= 7.065 sq. in.
Why is this important? You MUST match the area to fuel volume: grab the injectors from the same car as the VAFM... IF IT IS A 6 CYLINDER!!! Do not try to mix and match parts! It can be done... but there are compromises. The Supra VAFM is 44% larger than your current one.
295 cc/min. per cylinder @ 100% duty cycle (4 cyl, stock 22ret)
315 cc/min. per cylinder @ 100% duty cycle (6 cyl, stock 7mge)
Total fuel cc/min. (stock 22ret)= 1180 cc/min.
Total fuel cc/min. (stock 7mge)= 1890 cc/min.
So:
1180 cc/min.= 4.90625 sq. in. with (4) injectors
1890 cc/min.= 7.065 sq. in. with (6) injectors
If you were to use this VAFM, you would need (4) injectors that= 1890 cc/min. divided by (4)= 472.5 cc/min. Now go to www.witchhunter.com On the left side-bar and click injector sizing. Scroll down to Toyota. There are many Denso part #s, start clicking. They show cc/min. as well as the engine code i believe. Take note of a vehicle that is as close as possible and acquire them (junkyard).
Next, is desoldering and removing the circuit board from the 22ret VAFM and using it to replace the 7mge circuit board. This will provide the correct fuel curve for the volumetric efficiency that the 22ret ECU is familiar with. DO NOT trust the fuel curve of another motor! A N/A motor and turbo motor have different fuel curves. I personally would NEVER trust "plug-n-play". Unfortunately, I have never anything as easy as "plug-n-play".
In theory, this will work perfectly... IN THEORY.
Theory is not always reality. There are 2 ways to adjust the VAFM: a factory calibrated idle air bypass set screw and the coil spring inside the black plastic cover. If you have an erratic idle after this type of modification: drill out the factory screw seal cap (aluminum) and adjust the air bypass. If you need more or less fuel throughout the RPM range or according to boost level, you can adjust the coil spring. If you do not own a wide-band, evaluate your VF signal, DO NOT rely on the ECU to remain on its pre-programmed +/- 10% fuel adjusting capability. Staying on the ragged edge or compensation will bite you in the end... again more info at www.autoshop101.com for TCCS monitoring. Always place a mark where you started so you may return if needed.
All calculations are made from the info that I have. PLEASE make your own and be sure, I mean this is your motor! Anyone chime in, I welcome correction as I won't sleep if I know my info has cost someone else damage.
Matt,
You will run an additional O2(wideband) sensor, you will not replace the factory narrowband O2. Get a wideband O2 sensor kit with gauge and install it....I mean... bring it to my house so I can weld a second O2 bung into you exhaust.
Once you have the AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) gauge installed, then you can start experimenting with real data and mods that work or do not.
If it were me, I'd get the AFR wideband installed first, then do the AFM swap, and see what results you get before you go to headers and other stuff. Keep your mods simple, one at a time and test. Can't tell you haw many times I got ahead of myself only to undo all my work and start over.
It's really pointless to add an AFR meter on a narrowband. They read within such a narrow band that all you'll see is a light show as the meter dances from full lean to full rich indications. The meter is all over the place due to the limited fidelity of the sensor.
Since you decided to add an AFR meter, I'm glad you're going to put in a wide-band!
You are correct, maybe I should have specified more clearly that you add a wideband O2 with the AFR gaug, leaving your narrow band to feed the ecu data it needs. You cannot use a narrow band with an AFR gauge and expect usable results. the wideband is just going to let you see what the engine is doing.
Big weekend coming up. I have a laundry list of things to do on the T4R.
I'll pull the Battery, the AFM and Airbox... then start re-working the wire harness. I have plenty of wire to do everything needed for the swap. One thing I've got to work on is building a battery tray on the Driver side. I have a template made but I need to find some steel to use.
Once the wire harness is extended & built I'll do the XJ6 Alternator swap. I have the XJ6 Alternator and the 17mm drill bit to modify the Toyota belt pulley. One thing I have to work out is where I'll route the power wire to the battery and secure it.... I guess under the engine.
I will be using the stock AFM for now with a 2.75" 60* bend silicone tube from siliconeintakes.com with the stock airbox. I'll bring the Cressida AFM & new AEM air filter and check to see if it works, but really I'm not sure how I feel about that yet.
The rest of the work are all targets of opportunity:
I really want to get the winch wired up and working correctly with the controls hardwired into the truck using the old manual antenna switch in the cab. Then I can get the winch all cleaned up and working and re-rope it.
The above listed work should take all day Friday. Once I get through with that I'll take the rear 1" blocks out of the rear, install the new u-bolts and tighten up the parking break.
Lastly I'll write up the trailer light connection.
I have all of the parts... should be quite exciting weekend.
Edit:
So this weekend went quite different than I planned. I left all of my cable at my house = huge face palm moment when I went to open up my parts box in my Dad's garage morning of....
Instead I went ahead and removed the rear 1.5" block lift & replaced the U-Bolts (that went quickly)
Next Up I opened up the engine bay to get after the Alternator. Well that was a pain in the butt...
The XJ6 Alternator does NOT fit easily into the engine bay if you have a 22RE with power steering. When I did the XJ6 mod on my 1987 Toyota Pickup 2WD w/22R it was super easy because there wasn't any AFM or power steering to worry about. With the 22RE & power steering, I pulled the fan and shrowd and pushed the alternator up from the bottom. I will also say that the 17mm drill bit I purchased was not true and it bored out the pulley an extra two thousands of a mm... and it was WAY too loose on the shaft. Thank the lord the NAPA machine shop had a old belt pulley that he gave me.
The next day I worked on the trailer wire harness and winch. So if you have a XRC series winch, the solenoid is very prone to failure due to water. I initially tested the solenoid incorrectly, then ran up to grab some old Ford Solenoids that are factory sealed and only $21 a pop. I came home then realized we did the test incorrect. I took the Smittybuilt Solenoid apart - cleaned it then re-tested it correctly. Worked without issue. Then I put it back together wrong and of course... I RTV'ed the hell out of it. So I need to take it apart, clean it, RTV it and put it back together properly.
The tailer wire harness was a little easier. So if you have a 1st Gen you will need a converter that allows you to use the very common 4 plug (flat 4 connection). I found one at Advanced Auto for $25. That's done and I can now hook up the trailer and have working lights.
Anyone with LED turn signals have issues with both rear running lights flashing when a turn signal is on (with a converter to 4 plug trailer light connection installed)?
10-21-2015, 05:36 AM
