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Update:
I got word that it's most likely a grounding issue for the turn signals, etc. Gotta work on that.
I picked up some lightly used Downey 26mm T-Bars, I've gotta source the adjustment bolts and that nut thing. Might hold off on putting these in if I decide to go the Blazeland LT. Who knows man who knows.
I got to do some light wheeling this past weekend, only had 2WD but that locker man, that locker! I didn't have any chance to really stuff the suspension so I couldn't tell you guys how the front articulates, but I know I'll need to do some tubing.
I've been slowly getting myself back on track to do the AFM battery swap. I found some garage space.
So my transfer case rear output shaft seal has been leaking... I wanted to get one of those ecoseals but they were almost all sold out so I picked up the toyota OEM seal and the OEM shaft flange nut too.
Once i pulled the flange off I was greeted with this lovely color trans fluid. emmm. Guess I'll replace that soon. I wonder how the transmission is doing?!
I spent about 15 minutes cleaning the old sealant off the output shaft and used some Emory cloth to clean up the surface for the seal and cleaned up the flange. Then put some RTV on the shaft and the splines of the flange and threw everything back together.
Oh... note to self... don't work on the truck after driving in the snow...
One thing everyone should do when they get a second hand vehicle is change ALL the fluids and grease any fittings.never trust the seller. A note to anyone using RTV or a liquid gasket.... The sealant will fail if the area is not free of oil when applying the liquid gasket. This means, in most cases, using a cleaner in addition to whiping the area down.
Finally got my front gears installed. Been driving around town to get the gears broken in. I'm so happy to have a 4x4 again. While I was gone, I was going to have the shop I dropped the truck off weld on my sliders and my front bumper re-enforcement, but it didn't get done. And of course, when I picked my truck up, my rear window didn't work. So needless to say, one step forward, two steps back. I'll be using the 4Crawler website to trouble shoot the window.
One thing that you should check for the rear window is that the wiper switch might be stuck halfway. There's a safety device setup and it won't let you roll the window down. Check that first..
Sooooo...... I went through the trouble shooting steps outlined on 4Crawler's website and the motor ran fine. Hooked 12Vs up to it... up, down... bamn, thank the lord. Well I finally got to the one I was hoping it wasn't and I found that the previous owner re-installed the rear power relay upside down.... I pulled it off to check it out and water started splashing everywhere. Yeup. The rear window "Power Window Relay" PN 85930-89101 which is located behind the driver side rear seat side panel. the plug should be facing down as to not allow water to creep in, but the PO installed it upside down... allowing water to get inside - which caused issues over a period of time.
Note to self, start going over the entire truck to make sure everything is fixed correctly. Well the relay was installed upside down and water got into the housing and burnt it all up. Pretty sure one relay on the circuit board is burnt up and one resistor is trashed. I ordered a replacement off ebay for $55 just in case I can't repair this one. I'll have to jerryrig up some switch to get me by until the replacement comes in next week.
So, I cleaned the circuit board up. Two capacitors were burnt and destroyed. One relay was shot. The others still work. So I'll probably try to get this one fixed and keep it as a backup. I just have to find someone who will be willing to do it - not easy.
oh yea bro, that's the first thing I read... unfortunately it doesn't show how to rebuild the board. I went through all of the steps which led me to that power window relay (pictured above note). I'll have the new power window relay by thursday hopefully and will go through the steps again.
Edit: got the new (well used) power window relay in, popped it in the truck... everything works!
I've decided to get the frame inspected for square. Found a reputable spot in Baltimore that's old school - Frame Rite Auto. $55 for the inspection to verify square, then hopefully just a little work to get the front squared away. After that I'll feel more comfortable throwing Blazeland LT at the truck, welding the sliders and welding the front bumper re-enforcing plate on. Once that's good, I'll also bite the bullet on the budbuilt single case cross member.
I do need to get some body work done, tub the front fenders, get some holes filled along the side and then I can start with the bedlinder on the lower portions of the truck and bumpers/sliders.
I went to multiple firestones to get alignments and every one continued to tell me that they could not get the wheels into camber alignment, specifically citing that the cam's were maxed out. I brought the truck to Frame Rite on Harford RD for a laser assessment to determine if the frame was true. They determined that the T-Bars being cranked up by Previous Owners caused the frame to collapse a little, preventing normal adjustment options. Frame Rite "spread" the frame back to spec and provided significant improvements. They also squared away some issues I had with my drag link and steering column. Super happy that they killed it.
Now that I've got that squared away I can get back to the little stuff like replacing the exhaust manifold to downpipe donuts with OEMs, and doing a full tune up for summer.
I'm looking at buying a Softopper next week, wish I could afford a CANBACK, but the price is way too high. RB you were super lucky to find one on craigslist.. I've been searching daily for a used one.
Luck isn't something I normally have, but having found that CanBack so close to home was amazing.So did you relax the torsion bars? What improvements did Frame Rite provide? Just curious.
So maybe this should be a warning to others that want to jack their IFS to fit bigger meats on the cheap.
So the threshold for both caster and camber cams were maxed out... when the corrected the shape of the frame, they provided significant improvements on negative/positive caster and camber adjustments for the cams. Now all adjustments are in the center of their adjustment window with plenty of ability to go negative or positive. I relaxed the T-Bars back down to stock height after I purchased the truck, I believe the POs had them CRANKED for a long period of time. My belief is that with the super tight (cranked) t-bars, they couldn't react or soak up the bouch at all... so it was like every bump was bashing the frame. Now, the t-bars are relaxed and it doesn't have an impact on the frame. I will also install my downey's to increase the suspensions ability to soak up bumps without negatively affecting the frame (less crank with increased spring rate = less work?!) They also really squared away my steering. Apparently there were some significant issues in how Firestone adjusted my inner/outer TREs and drag link in comparison to the center of my steering wheel. So now I have equal turns to lock in both directions. I never paid attention, but prior to Frame Rite, I had significantly unequal turns to left lock vs right because of how the steering column and drag link was connected (both Fire Stone and Toyota messed with my steering column). I have been working to ID what was wrong, and I'm glad Frame-rite was willing to help me. yea finding anything Toyota 1st Gen related is quite hard in Maryland... boo
So I got a little work done this weekend, mainly fixing the exhaust shop's ˟˟˟˟ty work replacing the donuts on the truck. I paid for them to put OEM donuts in, clearly they didn't do it, the donuts blew out in about 2 months. I called up Toyota, ordered donuts through them (less than $10 total). Picked them up and went to town.
So I get under the truck, they put SAE nuts on the studs... AWESOME! I spent about 1 hour clearning up the threads and making sure every one worked correctly. i used some exhaust nuts from my old 5VZ-FE... everything is buttoned up and it sounds normal again.
installed some flamethrower's this past week, had a myriad of issues... leaks here, leaks there. The fuel damper was leaking...
Then I got everything back together and i had terrible idle surge. I tore everything back down, and went back through it.
I didn't suspect the TPS because the truck ran well before. But after testing it, i noticed that it partially failed mechanically, and partially failed the steps outlined on 4crawler's website. The good thing is I became very familiar with the steps to test it, I also did the allen bolt swap with the m4 - .7 12mm long bolt. I ordered a new TPS, arrives tuesday. At that point, I figured I'll finish up my Supra AFM swap... soldered it up, and if I have free time, I'll extend the AFM harness, and do some big three prep work. Who knows, I just want the truck to run correctly!!
hmm Flamethrower 211cc plug n' play fuel injectors, new OEM thermostat, fuel filter and silicone line, but no workie 22re...
while I wait for my new TPS to arrive, I started to work on my winch. I rebuilt the solenoid a few months ago and really got after the "waterproofing" but when i went to use it, I couldn't get one side to work. I spent about 20 minutes taking all of the silicone off and opened it up.... corrosion everywhere! AH. So i went ahead and picked up a replacement from Summit: Smittybilt Winch replacement Solenoid 97281-52Y for a 1st gen XRC8
and I also picked up a universal wireless remote. I didn't want to drop $100 for a warn version, so I'll try my hand at this
^^^ use heat shrink with adhesive, or I find using some liquid tape and regular heat shrink works very well. I can recall exactly, but I told a friend of mine a while ago I was going to use some silicon to pot a circuit board. He recommended against it because he said it could hold water or attract it. Not sure how true this is, I couldn't find anything online to support this....now that I think about it, I wonder if silicone contains some chemicals in flux or some other corrosive to cooper/tin/solder...
01-15-2016, 08:54 AM
