MaK92-4RnR

So here was the culprit behind the no start condition on the 4Runner:







I drove the truck to work on Monday (2 hour round trip) and didn't give me any issues. But the check engine light came on for code 71, which is no surprise. That code was coming up before the truck decided not to start. But I've cleaned the EGR system and it still continues to pop up.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

Sweet XRunner. I wish they made them in the new Tacoma body style, I'd be all over a quad cab version as a DD.

Good job figuring out your dizzy was worn out

84 yota dude

That's a really impressive range. And for the pics if you have a mac computer you can airdrop them!!! protip haha

MaK92-4RnR

They made the XRunner up to 2012? 2013? so you can definitely get the teardrop front end on the Tacoma, which isn't bad looking. I do like the way the 05-2011 looks though. A good set of projector headlights and a decently cut grille and its a nice piece!

I don't really have a complaint about the access cab, either. No one ever sits back there (I have the 4Runner seats folded down at all times, as well). My truck came equipped with the factory subwoofer and there's hardly room back there anyways.

I guess you could take a 2wd double cab with a v6 in it (if its possible to find? I've no idea) and put an Xrunner kit on it and have what you're looking for.

Back on subject with the 4Runner issues. I believe I found out that the EGR Temperature sensor is the culprit behind the check engine light. its extremely intermittent and only comes on when I've been driving for about 50 miles or so. I have a spare lying around the garage somewhere so i'll swap that over and see if that fixes it. If that is the solution, i'll be able to get the ol' girl smogged and go from there.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

still need to update your sig.

also, i hope this solves your issue with the runner. its frustrating to have constant gremlins. remember the no start issue on the tacoma? yea, never figured that one out before i sold it. was random too.

MaK92-4RnR

Yeah, I know. lol

So the 4Runner has been driving great to and from work all week. I swapped a new temperature sensor in, cleared the code and I haven't seen it since. I'll give it till the end of this week and see what she does as far as bringing the code back.

My 4Runner still has that funky "no CEL on startup" though. I haven't swapped the spare ECU in though, but I did check and they are the same exact ECU. More than likely, because my truck was an automatic at some point the previous owner probably just made the manual work with what was already in my truck. Whatever.

MaK92-4RnR

I think I figured out the check engine light issue. I replaced the EGR Temperature Sensor with one that was on a spare intake manifold that Space-Junk gave to me. Truck hasn't given me a CEL since resetting everything. I think we're good to go and see if I can get her to pass smog over the weekend,.

Thehands

sorry for the thread revival but i was thinking about the 37x12.50r16.5 humvee tires on my own 1987 toyota pickup with 5.29 i dont crawl and i do drive on the freeway its my dd i dont really air down as i dont do sand ill do some snow but not sand so i dont think id have to worry about airing down. i do have the rims with 35x12.50r15 what lift did you have with those tires i haave a pro comp 4-5 in lift and a 3 in body lift. would that fit? I have also been looking at rims for attaching to my stock set up so i could swap rims out if i ever need to. what rims or adapters did you run? i was planning in 36 but then i saw the 37 in humvee tires for 700 for 4 tires. shipped. its just adapters and rims and lift that im asking about.

MaK92-4RnR

1) You cant air down these military tires. They are designed to run flat
2) you could honestly fit a 37 easily with a bracket lift and a body lift combined. I'm on a 3" SAS (6" total, about) and I have 35x12.50r15 on 15x10 with 3.75 backspacing.

I hope this helps

Thehands

thank you it does, why did you switch back to 35s? did the 37s break things with normal use? would them=y make an okay dd?

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

too big and heavy, IIRC. they also never flex. cheap tires, but if you wheel, theyre worthless.

Thehands

i never rock crawl but i do drive in mud and snow its mostly a dd also i am getting another heavier winch for my truck.
so by too heavy it takes forever to get going and stopping.
What about getting a bigger braking disk and pads to help with stopping the tires?
the reason they look so appealing is itll cost me 1200$ for tires or hummer tires are around 400$ plus $400 ror rims also im going to college so in general im broke. and for 5.29 gearing a 36 to 37 in tire are the same amount off.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

Go with 35" mud tires or all terrains. The military wheels are too much. Just my .02$.
/threadjack

Thehands

thank you will do

MaK92-4RnR

Hey gents,

It’s been a long time since I’ve been involved on the forums but I’m slowly getting back into it. For anyone that’s curious, I do still have the 1st gen 4Runner. She’s made her way into the mid 200k mileage range and even though she’s garaged regularly, the age is showing.

4Runner update:

Here’s a list of everything it needs right now.

1) Rear window motor
2) Leaf spring bushings
3) Shackle bushings
4) Front axle rebuild/regrease/reseal
5) All exterior armor needs to be repainted.
6) Front & rear driveshaft work
7) Rear axle inspected (odd, unknown vibration/noise. Could be the driveshaft.)
8) Hard tune-up. Mostly because it wont pass smog.
9) Clutch is slipping

There’s other things that are due for maintenance here soon but for now, that list is the biggest issue.

Tacoma update:

I do also still have the Tacoma. She’s parked next to the 4Runner and stays in the garage on rainy days. No major updates to post about other than it needs a clutch because it slips under boost.

Overall update:

Over the years, I’ve bought and sold a bunch of cars. I had a 1986 Ford F-350 Turbo 6.9 Diesel w/ a 4 speed manual. It was a crew cab long bed truck that I planned on restoring and turning into a bad ass daily driver but I went to fill her up at the gas station one day and one guy offered me a sum of money I couldn’t refuse since it was triple the amount I paid for it.

After that I had a 1989 Toyota Cressida MX83. It was an awesome car because it had such low mileage (116k) but I posted it on craigslist randomly to see if I could sell it for double than I paid for it and the day after I posted it on craigslist, some kid drove up from Monterey, bought it and drove it home.

Overall? I’m back to the original two Toyotas and I think that’s the way it’s going to stay for a while.

Side note:

At the moment, I’m recouping some funds that I used to save my beloved dog. At 1.5 years old, he contracted Parvo even though he’s vaccinated. Probably one of the hardest weeks of my life since I nearly lost him because vet #1 misdiagnosed him for having something lodged in his G.I track but I pulled him from that vet to drop him off at vet #2 who diagnosed him properly and was able to nurse him back to the crazy dog he was prior. As mentioned, crazy week and a punch to my wallet ($8,200.00).

While nursing the dog back to 110%, I’ve been cleaning the garage, replacing some airlines, cleaning some tools and getting everything prepped to take on some projects. I already have a clutch for the Tacoma and 4Runner, as well as a few other parts lying around that need to be installed. I also have about 10-12 sets of AISIN manual hubs that are lying around that need to be restored and sold off to fund some of the projects I have in mind.

Anyway, just a small update for anyone that’s been wondering where the hell I’ve been.

Yotatech sucks for posting pictures now, so i deleted them since they wont stop posting at the top of the post. lol #makeyotatechgreatagain

old87yota

Welcome back!

I will be following if you keep posting!

I am not sure what you mean.

Here is how I post pictures to the forum (using a laptop computer): https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f122...loader-301179/

The color of the uploader changed from white to black, but is otherwise the same.

MaK92-4RnR

Small update:

Dug the clutch kit i ordered years ago out of the garage and inspected it. Everything looks good, still in the original packaging from MC and no surface rust from being on a shelf. I ordered up a 120 tooth flywheel from Rockauto, so i'll be getting that sometime this week or early next. I went with a new flywheel because its $100.00 to resurface the flywheel that's in there or $30.00 for a new one from LUK, so i went that route.

I made a late night visit to harbor freight and picked up a new 3/8 50 ft air hose since my other one was starting to crack. After getting that ready with new fittings, i felt froggy and decided to jump on doing an oil change on the 4Runner. Nothing out of the norm to report. She burns a little bit of oil at 260k miles but 4+ quarts came out still. While waiting for the oil to drain, i blew out the unoiled K&N filter that i have in there and buttoned it all back up.

My biggest concern right now is a drive train vibration that i'm getting while I'm in gear. If i'm in neutral and applying the brakes up to a stop, no vibration, no sounds, no issues. But if i'm in gear and i downshift/decel while approaching a stop without applying the brakes, the whole truck violently shakes. I'm pretty sure i've got some drive shaft issues I need to square away.

MaK92-4RnR

11-19-19 - Update - Rear Window Woes

Pulled the truck into the garage last night so i can work in some light. I ripped into the tailgate to gain access to the rear window/tailgate guts. At this point, I found a loose connector off the motor itself. Plugged that sucker back in and now the motor has power again but now the rear window makes a "thud" noise when I hit the switch to go up or down. Motor is definitely getting power but now i feel as if something is obstructing the up or down movement. At this point, I need a second pair of hands to hit either switch on the center console or on the tailgate that way i can track down which area is bound up.

MaK92-4RnR

11-26-19 - Update - More Rear Window Diagnostic

Previously, I pulled the plates/covers off the tailgate to gain access to the regulator and motor. Last night, I taped the window up and pulled the motor. Once the motor was pulled, I was able to test it's function and it's definitely got power to it. It activates on the exterior and interior switches without any hiccup. Hell, it's got enough juice to actually "jump" when its not bolted to anything. I inspected the gears/teeth on the window motor and nothing looked out of the ordinary, damaged or rusted, for that matter.

Once I confirmed that the motor was in working condition, I grabbed the window glass and began to move it up and down manually and I discovered 1-2 chipped teeth on the window regulator where the motor mounts:




After discovering this, I was at work stoppage. I lowered the window down and got the tailgate open since this is the only way to remove the regulator and replace it.

Now begins the search for a complete tailgate or a regulator by itself. I wanna slap in a new motor while i'm in here and regrease everything once i find what i need.

jakey poo

Bummer about the regulator teeth. I'm interested in what you find for replacement as mine is making a bit of noise at the bottom of its travel, I suspect it is a broken tooth as well.