Are you tearing teeth off or just burning the synchros up. If I try to put it in second to fast it grinder a little bit.

Yeah Mak the wiring on mine wasn't even that bad really. It just made me really never want to touch a soldering iron ever again but hey ill get over it.

 

I'm burning up synchros. The 2-3 and up shifts are awesome, it's just the 1-2 that sucks. I bet a lighter flywheel and stiffer pressure plate would help, and a better condition tranny.

 

Just read the whole thing... good stuff man. I miss my 4runner something awful.

 

Why don't you just tear down one if the trannys an put a 1-2 sleeve hub and synchro set in it. I my self have never had one apart but from what I see in the manuels it looks pretty simple the center section holds the gear sets and the fast comes off of that. Are you burning them up by up shifting or down shifting. And I really should say this but its hard to say at the same time as I do it to but its just to much fun. It's a truck not a race car.

 

I totally agree that it is not a race car! lol Maybe my expectations are too high. The problem starts with the upshift for me. Downshifting is a bit slow to engage 2nd also, but not as bad as the upshift.

I did take apart the first one to see what was going on, and sure enough, some teeth were missing from the synchro. I thought about rebuilding it, but the rebuild kits from Marlin Crawler are damn near $400.00, and I got another tranny for free. If the third one fails, I will take apart the last one and rebuild it, maybe even convert it to a R151 if I can find a good used 23 spline t-case.



I know you can't see anything from the pic, but here it is.

 

Don't bother with a R151. Yes it is the sti equivalent tranny to Toyota. But for the price I will pay for an R151 just go get the adapter to run an 80's 4cyl gear case an keep the R150f. Trust me. Just as good. And like I said I can't say much on driving it like a sti. Nothin like doing 70 before u even hit the top of an on ramp. Mine only grinds shifting down to second to fast unless I rev match.

 

Back from the dead. Haha

Well, I've got a bit over 13,000 miles on the swap now. It's been fantastic as a daily driver.

I think I want to sell her soon, and replace it with an FZJ80. Does anyone have any idea about what kind of price I should be asking for a truck like this?

 

well i guess it all depends on what you have in it, i could see 5-6 myself, but trust me, after driving an fzj80 for a week ull miss your fuel milage, id almost say keep it, plus, its a 2 door! cmon call it rare!

 

I do know it's rare, and I love it. However, I have a hardon for the FZJ that I can't explain. I really want to swap in a S/C'd 2UZ-FE in the FZJ.

The fuel mileage isn't really relevant to me, as my commute is less than 10 miles combined. I am getting about 15mpg in the city now. Haha.

Plus, I still have the STi for longer commutes and road trips that do not involve mud and dirt.


I was thinking of listing it for $9500.00 and negotiating from there. I just don't know if the swap and the rarity could justify that price, even in the turn-key condition it is (not to mention a lack of rust). I am into the truck about $7.5k total now.

 

My guess is that you COULD GET what you have into it.... Maybe..Tough times right now... But never know.
I will be doing a swap eventually.... Possibly to a CL 1st Gen find if the right one comes along... It will be SAS(or an 85 with no guts needing Hi steer, etc.) and 3RZ/7MGE/1UZ/etc. type territory.... And even then I'd be lucky to get 9,500$.... I see them all the time... they sit and sit and sit on CL.... And LARGELY due to the economy... I know that, but nonetheless, ... you need that sold, right?

Best wishes, man.... I think putting it out there as a "JUST PUTTING FEELERS OUT" type thread..... As what YOU WANT for it, first.... and see what you get on the input end. Guys like Wabbit, Mudhippy, Big Mike, etc., frequently roll through the Classified ads.... They'll be TOTALLY honest with ya... I could be way off, ya know?

 

Dunkin-

Sad to hear you are looking at selling but I understand.

I do have a question about the clutch set up you have. I bought the 3.0 kit from Marlin. With it installed the petal won't push the clutch in far enough to disengage it. Did you put the 3.4 throw out in? You have any clutch engagement issues?

 

I got the entire clutch kit, slave, release bearing and bell housing from KS Racing. So I didn't have to do any strange adjustments. However, The kit used the 1KZ diesel clutch, which makes finding replacements here in the US a nightmare. And I will need a new one soon. I've put 20,000 miles on her since the swap was completed.


You may need to make or get a spacer for the pivot ball on the bell housing if you are not getting enough travel.



Meh, I decided to keep it.

I just got done installing a Walbro 255 lp/h fuel pump, another oil change and replacing the radiator support so that I could bolt in the headlights properly, in addition to 5000k HiD's.

I am still waiting for the new TRD shift knob to come from Amazon (Waits patiently, *twitch*)

 

Glad to hear that.

I went back and read that. After starting back into this swap after doing nothing for a year I have some rereading to do.

I actually ordered the 3.4 unit from marking crawler just a few ago. This should fix the issues.

Feels good to work on it again.

 

Good deal! I am glad to hear you are turning some wrenches on it again.



Well, back to the building...

I drove to SeaTac last night because I found an awesome deal on some seats.

MkIII Supra seats in damn near perfect condition! They should match the blue interior of the 4Runner pretty well. The drivers side is power too!




However, on the drive down to SeaTac, I noticed a growling/clunking sound on deceleration.

Turns out after 20k miles on the 1UZ, my stock rear 3rd member has given up the ghost. So, to make myself feel better about it, I ordered a used 4:56/1 E-Locker rear axle from a 1997 4Runner. Now to source all of the wiring, switch and controller.

 

I just recieved the new rear E-Locker axle today. Damn thing showed up without the actuator motor.

So, I went ahead and ordered the Chillkat cable conversion. All I need to source now is the circlip and spur gear from an old motor and bolt her in!




http://www.chilkatdesigns.com/E-Racer.html


Pretty sweet design, and since the part didn't come with the axle, the company I bought it from paid for half of the kit.

 

Wow, just SICK! Love the seats, can't wait to see the axle in....LOVE this rig! Nice work, Man

 

Holy hell! This little bastard was a freaking nightmare to track down!




Finally had one of the guys at Nix99 come through for me, and the Chilkat actuator should be here later today.

The diff when in, after modding the housing, like the DIY write up here suggests, since the 99 housing was different.

The best news? NO MORE CLUNK!
Also, it turns out that I broke two teeth off of my original pinion.

 

Nice pinion!!
lol

 

Seats are in and wired. Along with a new shift boot and Momo TRD shift knob.





I also ended up doing a 95T100 front brake conversion. Turns out I had the tiny 4pots up front... No wonder I was warping rotors.

The 1 1/6" master cylinder should be here tomorrow to get the pedal height back up.

 

Ebay UK Shipped to me!

I found and installed a 1995 KZN130 Hilux Surf ear spoiler, and also installed Depo red/clear tail lights and clear bumper & corner lenses.








The paint looks weird cause its frozen. Damn cold here the last few weeks.