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OK- I am at kind a a dilemma with regards to the Trekker
it has been a fun project but the truck overall is just very tired.
Frame is tweeked, it isn't square, multiple cracks in the front towards the spring hanger.
The top leaks at the rear hatch.
So- do I sell it as a running truck - complete
or Pull the suspension, tires, axles, dual cases, seats and other misc stuff and sell it as basically a shell(body & cage with an engine and transmisison)
As bad as I dont like to see a truck get parted but from it sounds of the condition of the truck, I would keep the parts, especially if I was thinking of getting back into another first gen pickup. You know the conditions of the parts and that they are working and another first gen pick up would be mostly just reassembly, let alone having to chase down parts and the cost of them.
I parted a pickup that I could of sold as a wheeler or one that I was afraid someone might turn into a daily driver and the frame was just unsafe to have on the road. Do have a place you can store all the parts? If that is the case I would strip it down to just the shell and frame. It doesnt take a whole lot space to store a complete truck minus the body and frame. I even keep the complete wiring harness and dash assembly.
If you sell the truck whole, people are going try and beat you down in price regardless of the top brand parts you have into it. If you are not going to get back into another first gen truck it may not be worth the hassel so I would factor that in and having a bunch of parts you may not need again.
As bad as I dont like to see a truck get parted but from it sounds of the condition of the truck, I would keep the parts, especially if I was thinking of getting back into another first gen pickup. You know the conditions of the parts and that they are working and another first gen pick up would be mostly just reassembly, let alone having to chase down parts and the cost of them.
I parted a pickup that I could of sold as a wheeler or one that I was afraid someone might turn into a daily driver and the frame was just unsafe to have on the road. Do have a place you can store all the parts? If that is the case I would strip it down to just the shell and frame. It doesnt take a whole lot space to store a complete truck minus the body and frame. I even keep the complete wiring harness and dash assembly.
If you sell the truck whole, people are going try and beat you down in price regardless of the top brand parts you have into it. If you are not going to get back into another first gen truck it may not be worth the hassel so I would factor that in and having a bunch of parts you may not need again.
Terry- that is part of my dilemma but I am seriously leaning towards stripping the Trekker. It has been a fun truck but it was fairly beat when I got it, one reason I went the route I did with it.
I know that i probably wouldn't get much more that $4 or 5K for the truck as is. Pricing long travel kits and other items needed I think going SAS and using the axles etc would be cheaper in the long run. The gears and lockers only have 5-6000 miles on them and both thirds are still in great shape.
The big challenge will be the dual cases but I won't need to worry about that for awhile.
I do have storage available for keeping the parts. Need to do some moving around but I would be able to keep everything in my garage.
So with this build I really want to keep the dual cases
Low Range Off Road /inchworm V6 Automatic to Gear Driven transfer case http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/yotam...apter-kit.html
Somebody said it couldn't be done so Inchworm did it! We are pleased to announce the availability of our Toyota Automatic Transmission Adapter. This adapter will allow you to bolt up a gear driven transfer case (or cases) behind your factory automatic transmission in pre-'95, 4cyl or V6, Toyota 4x4 pickups and 4Runners.
It allows the use of Inchworm Double Transfer Case Adapters and Geared Cases behind factory automatic transmissions. Clockability allows 10 degrees of rotation for added ground clearance.
This adapter does require a complete tear down of the factory automatic transfer case as well as some small part changing inside the transmission.
NOTE: All 2wd Toyota Automatic Transmissions will need our PreRunner Adapter.
* Includes: Adapter Plate
* Coupler
* Oil Seal
* Park Pawl
* Park Rod
* Park Bracket
* Hardware
* Instruction Sheet
4Runner Coil Spring to Leaf Spring Conversion Info
Originally Posted by 4rnr
yeah I know I didnt end up putting up quite so many pics, but I have a lot of pics so just request.
Heres the pics of the rear.
This is the info that Dave gave me at marlin, and it made this a very easy one try job.
This is drivers side
This pic is of the reference points he chose. One point is the center of the torsion bar adjuster bolt hole. He then measured 28'' strait back the frame and that is the front edge of the hanger.
This is the other method. just measure one inch in front of this hole. My frame had no such hole.
here is how he welded it. Ive seen some guys come strait off the frame, but he chose to go in the middle as did I.
As for the shackles he had a method for that too but obviously its a no brainer. Just get the correct angle on the shackle (matter of taste) and make sure each shackle is the same.
He used these holes, the big hole is the center of the mount front to back, and the small hole in front of it is the center locator side to side..
here it is welded up
This is the truck he was working on its a 4'' front, 5'' rear with 35's. the same springs im using.
To get it square which is the MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THIS PROJECT!!! I just measured the distance from the hanger bolt for the front end to the hanger bolt for the rear end and made sure each side was perfect, mine is 102.5'' bolt to bolt.
I hope that helps someone, it was exactly what I was looking for.
Originally Posted by Elvota
I had these handy...
I am running 6" All Pro rear leaves. If you have different springs in mind, these dimensions most likely will not work.
Pretty confident I found the root cause for the right front wheel seizing
When pulling the axle out I found this little gem
A family member had recently did the brakes and must have dropped a bolt. ..
Last edited by dropzone; Sep 20, 2015 at 08:37 PM.
It was the root cause for me getting it for $400.
Going SAS is because I have the stuff, by the time I buy brackets, the auto to dual case Inchworm adapter from LROR and other misc stuff I will probaby be into the truck for less than $2000
Originally Posted by BlazeN8
That makes no sense muddpigg! Throwing the baby out with the bath water. A dropped bolt could cause the same problem with a SAS rig!
Nate- totally correct, it could happen to any brake.
On to today's acquisitions
Two stops and $65 netted me
-complete tailgate
-roof rack parts
-L/R corner lights
-L/R tail lights
-L/R rear windows
-rear spoiler for an experiment
-grill
-CV axle so I can drive it this winter till I start the SAS
And my $5 pick N pull score from the labor day half off sale got installed today, spent $10 for the roll of 3m tape.
Also ordered LED'S for the interior and exterior lighting today.
I had one of them bolts to come out on me not long ago and then when doing the front bearings on my 88 seen someone had installed a non factory metric bolt in its place. Talking to another member, he had one to back out on him. Starting to wonder if it is more of a common problem that doesn't get mentioned much. I think I will start adding blue locktite to mine from now on.
Nice score on the parts, I wish I had a pic-n-pull closer to me. I'm interested to see how the auto/dual case setup works out when you get to that point. How much does the inchworm adapter kit run?
Nice score on the parts, I wish I had a pic-n-pull closer to me. I'm interested to see how the auto/dual case setup works out when you get to that point. How much does the inchworm adapter kit run?
The auto to geared cases adapter is $550.
Install doesn't look too bad.
If interested I can email you the instructions. I hope to have it by next summer
Started pulling stuff off the Trekker over the weekend.
I am really glad I never installed my winch on this bumper, it took about 10 minutes to drill out rosette welds and cutting with a cut off wheel to get it off. I am pretty sure the winch would have peeled it off.
But it certainly served it's purpose over the years and I am hoping it will bolt up to the 4Runner since the T-G winch plate was designed for later trucks
Sliders are beat but new legs will let them have a new life on the 4Runner
That makes no sense muddpigg! Throwing the baby out with the bath water. A dropped bolt could cause the same problem with a SAS rig!
Originally Posted by dropzone
It was the root cause for me getting it for $400.
Going SAS is because I have the stuff, by the time I buy brackets, the auto to dual case Inchworm adapter from LROR and other misc stuff I will probaby be into the truck for less than $2000
Nate- totally correct, it could happen to any brake.
Tough crowd these day or humor is in short supply.
Didn't you guys know that a hole in muffler means time to SAS, just sayin
Sep 9, 2015 | 05:18 PM
