Jk, just reminded me , which is good!

 

lol

well happy Lich jesus day everyone

well after installing the air compressor back in the well house
doing kris Intrepid oil,air filers polished his headlights (plastic all cloudy) recharged his AC

we dug into the front of my engine took out the bad keys an put in the new ones glad we had extra gaskets to rekey the engine took awhile..

points at chef ... watching you... . o..O

ran a tap through all the threads on the block getting ready for various brackets an such got the valve cover fully installed (to hold the halfmoons while the permatex sets)

i finished the painting of parts for the lower intake will be doing the injectors soon, so much salt corrosion all the parts either rusted or crusty everything needs paint after it gets removed an cleaned



tomorrow i go to see a plastic surgeon my foot doc wants to see the foot see that he has to suggest for the darn thing

 

Wow, looks fantastic! Nice work.....

Hope he throws you some promising prospects on things!

 

thank you mark far cry better than what i took apart an i was joshin ya i hope you know mr reekey LOL


i dont hold out any hope on this doctor last plastic surgeon i went to see flew off the handle demanded i get a PICC line (used for long term IV antibiotics) as i HAD to have some kind of deep set bone infection (which i didnt) an nearly got me killed when my body attacked the PICC line's plastic which left me with a blood clot from my right elbow to my collar bone an at the shoulder back down into the upper arm so left me with 1 of 3 veins in the arm still flowing an it was traveling/growing along the line towards my heart

6 months of rat poison blood thinners (coumadin) to strip the clot out an that doctor NEVER once called when i was in the hospital or at home to see if i even survived...

so like i said not holding out any hope

 

plastic surgeon wants to cut into my foot an 'see' whats going on so may 8th i go for pre-op checkup an then 16th get up at 6freaking am to wait up to 4 hours to get in for the cutting an likely not be able to do nothing on my truck for a while after that...

anyhow got the engine further put together rear seal installation had to be done hanging up our engine stand is too close to do it with it on it



oilpan install showing other parts installed worked more on the lower intake checking parts for ready to put on just before putting in the engine bay

 

Quick flip it back over before someone notices you didn't clean and paint the oil pan!

I really hate clean engines... Makes me want to clean mine more. Got a nice fresh coat of paint on my fan pulley today atleast, no idea why it bubbled up looked like it was soaking in paint striper not antifreeze/water.

Good luck with the Md guys.. Might want to look into homeopathic stuff, tea tree, cinnimon and clove oils are all clinicly proven to treat super bugs. They're all afraid of creating new bugs and don't break out the big guns(vancomyacin).

 

oh pan is painted it was just eaten really bad by the rust an its dusty

its not infection thats causing my problem that is for certain i have a hole in the foot an it wont close its left several doctors scratching their heads but infection i dont have that is easy to identify an treat

 

Hey man, well,..... hopefully he'll at lay come or of surgery feeling he can Btw sure there's no worry of infection and just button the ole Stomper up! GOTTA BE A WAY! Maybe can tale some tissue from the calf or such and make a successful Frankenfoot story out of all this. Sorry you'll be down again, ..... but it COULD, never know, lead to you getting your life back! I really hope you get a determined dude in this guy!

So, ..... is that a cork gasket or orange RTV? HOPEFULLY if RTV you went fairly liberally in application? If cork, ...... hopefully, that's a pre-85 22RE... õ.Õ .... Just can't make it out. .... looks like a thin film or cork. LOVED flipping the motor on a stand to handle the pan install, it ROCKS! Haha

 

cork with a nice bead of permatex on both sides smoothed out but the tourque spec said 9 ft lbs for 85 an up so it was set to that on an 88 22re

lol i told kris someone would say something about it

as for the foot at this point after years an so many surgeries to it which ive actually lost track of how many an when over the past 12 years i dont hold my breath
my blood pressure was a bit better 150/78 yes the 150 is still high but the 78 is great! when i was sitting with the wound vac on it was 170/110! bad very bad

 

Just getting caught up on your thread. My compressor the petcock valve is so rusted I have to remove the nut that holds the valve to drain the tank. I wish there was a way to remove the rust from the tank. You know any good way of cleaning a tank? One of these days I need to get a new compressor, but mine works great as it is and with an air dryer on it I cant complain. So that put it at one thousand of the one thousand things that I would like to have.

Your engine is coming along nicely. Maybe a few more warm days and you will get a chance to get your truck running. I am sure the anticipation is building. The way you did your rear seal is how I have to do mine is by letting it hang.

It sounded like your foot was going to start to heal awhile back but guess it is going the other way. I hear you on what the doctor thinks. My oral surgeon is getting frustrated at my tooth is not healing and somehow they want to blame you. It likes yeah, I really enjoy this wound, NOT!!! Never would of thought some injuries would ever take so long to heal. Guess it is one of the benefits of getting older.

 

Terry. Treating an air tank is much like treating a fuel tank, clean it out and reseal it, just can't go to crazy with the media blaster you don't want thin spots They don't seal them at the factory (Job stability?) A good power coat would last forever.

 

hey terry why not use some of that fuel tank liner cleaner? get all the fittings off take it have it boiled clean then treat the inside like a gas tank
swish that sealer around inside (have the kids roll it about on the lawn) let dry then put all the stuff back on permanent seal of the steel internally quick paint job on the outside ours has got oil an such from the air head going bad so it helps a bit but we also drain it regularly via a ball valve an line outside the well house

as for the foot its not getting worse or better same measurements for months not a single change thats the frustrating part i can be totally sedentary or active it dont care well now the sitting thing is causing other health issues an i feel terrible weak an sore from doing things i shouldnt feel like im 90 just because i sat down an stayed there trying to get the foot to heal

 

got a lot done on a lot of little things cleaning various hoses getting vsv's an their brackets cleaned up an painted, finding mah dipstick.. yes it was missing an was lost.. found it though! put the LRC studs in on the intake side to see what things looked like an how things fit since were well past how it came to me as a near bare block im walking in unfamiliar territory!

also cleaned an replaced the screens an seals on the injectors an completed the lower intake assembly! will be posting that here in a bit
need to get the pictures in order an uploaded

im thinking on getting NGK spark plugs, new cap an rotor anyone have any votes against the NGK? i know not champions or autolite (hated those in my chevy)

 

Always did denso plugs, ....... and they've looked nice after 100k! Lol..... I know, that's often the motor and A/F radio being nice to them, but that's pretty darn good longevity! Haha

 

ok i know some of yota tech has shown interest in this kit an i admit to being OMG im gona &*@# things up ruin an injector but

NO..

it actually was quite easy an surprisingly so!

ok you look up 22re injector rebuild kit on flea bay ran 19ish bucks i know i need the seals as mine were crumbling an cracks were evident also just in case i dont want issues with a dead injector not knowing what the PO had left me with after the cracked head an head bolt issues

this is what you get a baggie of nitril rubber orings, tip an upper body seals new filter screens with simple instructions an one stainless steel screw.. more on that in a bit


ok little closer shot of the kit contents


ok now heres where it gets a bit um.. tightening well this is where i thought well im gona eat this glad ive expected it to go wrong

to clean the injectors your gona want to pull the screens out as they could have debri, dust dirt, flaky gas additives (mine had powdery stuff in the screens an on the rings at the pressure rail side) some dust an years of use best to clean an roll

ok ya know that stainless screw in the kit, clamp it tightly in a vice trust me you will need a vice to hold it


then your going to do something very disturbing your going to take the pressure end of the injector where it meets with the fuel rail an see the hole in the top? put that on the screw an turn it on a couple twists so it feels tight then with a gentle rocking an constant pull on the injector POP! out comes the old screen


yes at this point id made diamond in places that stone should not be... an sighed in relief 1 down 3 to go! the last one (of course) i had to twist it on a second time but the screen did finally pop out WHEW LOL

4 old screens 4 dried out cracked decayed pintle seals (injector to intake) removed prior to cleaning


NOW this is where you can put in the new screens an o-rings seals ect. if you know the injectors are fine but i needed to clean mine SO
if you go on yutube there are several vids on how to clean your injectors at home my results were ok i messed up on it but it did work!

ok! now you need a 9VDC power source (9v to be safe), couple aligator clips or an old injector harness clip, a momentary switch a bit of rubber hose that will fit over the ends of your injectors, a syringe and a can of carb cleaner with the spray wand, a container to catch the liquids

this is the tool you will make
electrical side:


carb cleaning side:


now hook up the power the momentary switch is only going to feed power to the injector when you click it which is a good test for them no click click no workie injector! (or no power you did plug the power in right?)

ok so shove the pressure side of the injector into the hose i left the old O-ring on to help the seal (gona wash first normal then flip it) can/receptacle ready to catch the streams (2) of cleaner? i dont have any pictures of this as im clicking holding the injector an had to have kiddo hit the carb cleaner first time he goes whole hog an pops the straw off spraying me in the face with it...


after a few minutes of recovery...
so you click the injector as the cleaner shoots through mine couple were fine but 2 had half of the 2 ports spritzing all wonky the back flush then again normal they were good to go this is why dont put the screens on before cleaning (as kris told me to do) the screen would have kept the offending issue in the injector instead of blasting it out into the can

SO now your injectors are/should be clean if you didnt get 2 streams (check see you have 2 holes in the end) it might need to soak a bit then try the pulsing again if you dont get a nice solid sounding click! when hitting the switch check your connections if it works on one but not another you might have a bad injector needs more than this will do

so this is what i had at this point 4 clean injectors that need their screens an seals (the body seals are still on mine they slide right off the new ones will need some gentle wiggling as they try to get stuck on the O-ring seal grove)



the screens are clearly an upgrade from the originals you put it in with the shiny brass part out to the fuel rail Mines pictured backwards sorry..




now using either a plastic head hammer or like i did the round smooth head of a screwdriver gently tap the screen into the injector HOLDING onto it DO NOT PUT THE pintle end on the workbench an hit the end you'll damage the injector wasnt hard to hold it an tap the screen in till flush with the end



so then you install the body seal, pintle seal to intake, an the green niltrle o-rings onto the injectors put them into the fuel rail lubing the O-ring with clean gas rolling it gently so not to ruin the ring it will be tight then once all 4 are back into the rail line them up with their ports in the intake gently walk them in with the two bolts that secure the fuel rail check to make sure they wiggle still they shouldn't be in a bind



an there ya go you've cleaned an replaced the seals around your injectors new screens so they get good clean gas flow hope this helps ya the V6 shouldn't be any different when it comes to the injectors as for the impedance the listings ask if its a high or low even showing the injector color so they send you the right screens an seals for them

my lower intake assembly completed with new copper banjo seals thermostat with its new seal sensors switches an such all put in with a bit of pipe dope on the threads

 

Great stuff, are you "now open for business" shall we start sending our injectors

Can you maybe fill a photo request for me? Over on this post. Looking for a shot of the EGR port on the back of the upper intake(plenum), need to know if this is a straight thru deal or convoluted passages that might be cloged. Figured I'd ask here directly since it looks like yours might be handy and still apart.

Thanks!

 

Ooooo sooo shineeeeyyyyy! Nice clean up dude.
So I expect to have mine done exactly the same as yours okay?

 

yeah don't forget to get sprayed in the face it won't come out right. ^^ It says right there it's step #2!

 

Haha yea that must had been funny haha. Hope none got in your mouth.

 

no prob its straight in betting the EGR passage plate on the back of the head is the problem its curves would get clogged an from experience my 79 had the problem when i tried to get it smogged in calif (will repost on other thread with pictures)