well today (waiting on parts for the engine) i got into the lower intake assembly o-ring seals for the injectors screens as well (got the kit) plus my main gasket kit has the copper seals for all the banjo fittings along the main fuel rail which some parts in this are flat nasty corrosion yet again an crusty stuff

im gona clean up the edges of the aluminum along where the injectors sit an shoot into the head an polish it up a bit just cause i can lol




the three main sensors blasted with penetrating oil wasnt taking any chances with them also blasted the temp timer in the middle of the intake



nearly all taken apart had to pull off a parts from the fuel rail
I AM SO GLAD im doing this the main seals on the injectors are crumbling an the ones in the rail were even worse

 

Nice work, bub! Wow though. ... terrible when that wrong part crap happens and isn't found out til assembled! BUTTTTTT, good you caught it now!

Clips: cost? I'm possibly going to order new seals back there. ... worried my"clips" might be toast... Wonder if the seals come worn the new clips. ... NOT LIKELY, I KNOW! Haha

 

Btw, my seals? They look "ok"... b ut not great... but the problem is that the outer one always pops out on the pass side a lil, then caves in when I try to push it back flush with the glass sometimes! Grrrrr! Wish they made an aftermarket quality kit with all the wiring and relay and inner gate stuffs with new seals and all.....b if be tempted if it was under 200 $ hahaha

 

PS-S> Lol....

I have a dealer print out with all those part numbers..... GOTTA FIND THAT! Its on my thread a ways back too, couple months....

 

easy peasy mark here ya go these are the current part numbers
68211-89106 CLIP, BACK DOOR GLASS WEATHERSTRIP
67868-30040 RETAINER, BACK DOOR WEATHERSTRIP

the 30040 one is the outter seal clips they are 3buck n so each you'll need 8 of them they will want to sell ya 10 which is how they come in to the dealer
the inner clips are a lot cheaper at a buck something each

 

and after some scrubbing sanding an wire brushing 3 parts of the lower intake all clean an a bit shined up

oh an the cat gizmo decided to supervise

 

So much like a cat! Lol

 

ok not much today too darn windy an COLD 34 all day brr

did start collecting little bits of things from various junk boxes ive got to make a home made fuel injector cleaner setup uses carb cleaner syringe a bit of rubber hose a power source an momentary switch a jar to catch the cleaner all i need to do is find out what voltage my red injectors need

anyone know what voltage the injectors need to open? read around 4crawler said 12v (old thread here on yotatech) but just wanting to make sure

 

you may need a resistor to pull up the amps

 

88 and up, iirc, have no injector resistor.... 85-87 have it. The 88 and up ones are low impedance injectors, themselves? Or are they Hiiiigh? Hehe... again, iirc, which WHO KNOWSSSSSSS? ... mine are black, ....again iirc... its toward the part of my beginning of my build where I went and picked them up from RC Injectors. Are these ur orig's

 

as shes had 2 previous owners WHO KNOWS i didnt see anything in the folder of papers on her life about injectors but... "shrugs"

they are the red body injectors i suspect 9v will do the job without risking killing them but i dont want to put new screens an seals an not clean them

 

An inline resistor will limit the current, I think thats what Outsane was meaning.

They are rated for for 9-14v (from the manual, PDF page 238). But it doesn't say anything about the current limit or duty cycle. The factory resistor is easy to ID and locate, it's the finned box near the battery and fuse box(Pictured on PDF page 245 image 2). There is some discrepency in the book on the resistence of the injectors, one page says 1.5-3 Ohm, and another says 1-2.5..

If you look at the injector test proceedures on PDF page 266. The SST has an internal resistor. The injectors are run for 15 seconds, comparable maybe to a 25% duty cycle.

I'm a bit of a take two voltage regulators lm317 configure one for voltage mode and the other for current mode, attach a 555 timer circuit and a transistor to fire the injectors.

http://diyaudioprojects.com/Technica...age-Regulator/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hidd...lator-Circuit/

It'll look alot like the circuit from the instructable site, expect you'll also have the current regulator between the voltage regulator and the load is the injectors instead of the EL inverter.

Or you can use the toyota resistor, and the 555 timer controlled transistor. probably be less headache that way. But it losses some of the "I built that" coolness.

 

PS of course I didn't run any power calculations or anything so just assume that stuff will burst into flames once you plug it in. Or run the power calcs and slap on the required heatsinks.

PPS. 9v should be fine, you can actually go lower voltage and current just need them to open not respond really fast.

 

the old cell phone charger im going to use with a momentary switch to pulse them so the carb cleaner flushes the powdery residues out (which they look terrible) should do the trick this cleaning is just a quicky before reassembling the lower intake

thanks all :-)

 

well pilot bearing came in YAY

did some more cleaning wirewheeling an such primed what has to be painted (steel now rust free) also wire wheeled then with some chrome polish an a cotton puff polished the sensors just waiting for some warm days an get some paint haven't installed the o-rings or screens on the injectors i will do those just before installing them i dont want them out getting dirty an such

i so hate salt..grr

 

You have been busy. Looks like you are making some great progress. I think things are starting to settle down and I can get back to keeping up with what all has been going on. Maybe this winter is about to move out of here so we all can get back to making a little more progress.

 

well today me an kris went to work on the compressor which sits down in the well house it blew the second head its had the needle bearings were just fragged to junk seized up SO new head 100 bucks took a couple weeks to get here then came adapting it to the tank... trip to homedespot an 49 in fittings an some flexible copper pipe an some 1/4in line kris has from his appliance work and the fun begins!

new head old motor rusty tank i got after that with the wirewheels an primer had to drill some new holes for the head an beefed up the motor plate from underneath change out a poly belt pully with a v drive variable speed one we had


checking the holes drilled an some of the welding done some sanding wirewheeling done


heres her running on a um ..jury rigged plug we had to clean the check valve as at first it didnt want to seal off right an then the offloader was acting up an still is a bit its 30yrs old so not surprising all painted ready for another 30 yrs


some of our copper an brass fitting work to fit in the off loader an connect the compressor to the tank



tomorrow kris car oil & filters an ac recharge then its onto my engine to rekey the timing gear an oil pump drive i got the parts i primed before painted as i painted the tank

oh the drive belt on the compressor came from my 4runner lol

 

Dang u! U said "re-key"! Now I have to grab that ign key cyl right away!!!! Haha.....

Nice work man! Looking forward to every next step, buddy!

 

lol what'd i say? i got 3 new keys for the crank shaft cause the 2 that are in it arent the right ones so rekeying...lol

 

There! U did it again! Pffffffbbbt! HAHAHAHA