Project is coming along

How did you determine your hinge placement?

 

The only thing I was really concerned with was having them line up properly so I can slide the window right out for full removal.

 

I'm considering installing first/second gen Tacoma third brake light on that area.
Around $23 for LED aftermarket.

Pls see my weather-proofing plan. Two weather seals in parallel; one stuck on window, another stuck on cap lip. For bottom of glass may have to do extension like on other camper shells.

 

Third brake light in that area is a great idea. You'd just have to tie it into stock brake light wiring?

I forgot about the two seal plan you outlined, will pick up some more D stripping and see what I can do. Thanks Rad!

 

Yup, repurpose wiper wiring harness for tapping into stock brake lights. I suggest clearly labeling wires used on mods for safety and convenience.
So many ideas for mods but life and adventures get in the way, so I'm happy someone's making them happen.

 

Simple pad lock latch installed for locking purposes/prevent window from sliding out of hinges while driving. Still needs fine tuning, but window now functional/removable for hauling. Will need a cam type lock on each end to compress gasket better.



Put layer of 1/4" thick foam gasket on canopy side until the rest of my 'D' weatherstrip shows up. Started raining on me while installing latch last night, so had to throw some foam in to help compress 'D' gasket more for better seal.

I will cap the top of the tail gate to cover void window came out of, while building it out slightly for better weatherstripping compression. May cap sides and top as well, will decide later.

Life always seems to get in the way of fun truck projects!

 

Thin gauge mock up of the tail gate cap.

 

Simple and functional, I like it!

 

Thanks Someday, I'm a big fan of simple and functional. That's why I drive an 87 Toyota!

A couple shots of the tail gate cap, made out of .100 thick, 5056 grade Aluminum. Trying to get it sealed up decently all the way around, then will proceed to remove old window motor and regulator, and reposition door latch cables so stock handle works again. Will also remove all hinges and hardware I made and paint them once I'm happy with the way everything turns out.

 

Following your progress! My main interest in this would be for fire safety if sleeping in the back.

For latches that compress, these might provide inspiration

They're used on my airstream windows for exactly this purpose, you rotate them, then when you latch them in place they pull in to pull the gasket tight

https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com...p/vts-1094.htm
https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com...p/vts-1027.htm

Would be most ideal if something similar could be made/found that would work from inside and out

Edit
Also, these are elegant, and would work great in the middle instead of a padlock. They pop out to make a t handle when unlocked, and you push back in flush to lock it.

https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Baggage-Door-Pop-Lock-p/vts-680.htm

 

+1 In industry we call it LEAN - Minimizing waste in labor, details, movement, steps, materials, everything...

IIRC, Wallytoo or Cory also eliminated his tailgate window mechanism and reconfigured the latch.

+1

Nice feature.

 

Thanks magnet. Fire safety is also a big concern of mine. I plan to start taking my 5 year old boy out onto the logging roads soon for some camping, and my 2 year old boy in a couple more years. Safety is my main concern.

Those are some really nice latches, will definitely think about swapping to some of those!

 

I took a LEAN course through work last year. I'm fully on board.

I did take a look at the way Cory did it, will probably do close to the same thing.

Unfortunately project is on hold until I'm done the bathroom reno for my wife, and friday on my way home from work I blew a rear brake line, so full hard line replacement this weekend! Rear window is functional and water proof right now though, so some fine tuning soon hopefully.

 

Just a small update. Haven't made any more progress on it, I'd still like to put a couple latch bolts on either bottom corner to hold it tighter against the canopy for a better seal, and I need to add some canopy pistons to hold the window up when I open it.

We have had a few really good dumps of rain though, and I haven't found a drop inside the truck, so seal seems to be doing it's job nicely. Hoping to get back on the project this weekend.

 

Why not sell your first gen and get a 3rd gen. No up/down rear window. I think 1st gen tailgate window is great. Easy access to tools gear, tailgate can be used as a seat. Btw, up/down switch up to 95 can be used to replace 1988 switch, perfect fit in console, just splice in old connector and match wires to same terminals on switch. Color code is different so take pic of old before you cut wires.

 

I appreciate the thoughts Yoogy, but that's not really the point

One of the main reasons I drive a 1st gen with a 22re is the simplicity of the mechanical and electrical systems, easier to diagnose means easier to maintain and fix. The only aspect I've ever disliked about the 1st gen 4runner is the rear window which is so prone to failure, and the safety reasons listed earlier in this thread.

For the record, I rewired my rear switch successfully, it can be done easily with a common DPDT switch. Two weeks later my window tracks rusted out, right back to non functioning window.

 

Update: I'm sorry to say my weather stripping is not fully sealing with the amount of rain we've been getting around here. Not a tonne of water getting in, but a little bit for sure. Will be looking into some other types of gasket, and I'm also toying with the idea of building some flashing to attach to the top of the canopy and overhang that top area that isn't quite sealing. Something similar to what the newer 4Runners come with, like in the pic. The sides seem to be fine, it's just the top where the water sits right on top of my gasket, it eventually seeps through.

 

I can't help you with the weatherstripping, but when you get to the point of removing the motor assembly, I can send you some pics of how I re-used the stock handle to open the tailgate. The basic idea is that I used a metal tent stake, which I tapped on the straight end to put a couple of nuts on, the stock handle pulls up the tent stake, the tent stake straight end goes thru a piece of steel flat bar, the pullup of the handle pulls up the flat bar and the flat bar pulls the existing tailgate cables. I have a softopper that I I really love. Next up is that I need to find some marine doors that I can put onto the tailgate that will allow me to store some gear in the now empty tailgate.

 

Thanks Cory, I think I've seen those pics in another thread but would be great if you could post them here. I've already removed my window motor and regulator, I've just been reaching into the opening and pulling both cables by hand to open my tailgate. Would definitely like to get the handle working instead!

 

Did you or do you have enough room to use double seal like I have in mind on post above?