Delete roll-up window and replace with flip-up type on first-gen 4runner
02-03-2018, 10:10 AM
#22
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02-03-2018, 11:07 AM
#23
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This is the exact way I pictured in being done, when you first brought up the subject. I think it is going to turn out looking pretty dang nice, and the way that toyota should've done it all along.
02-20-2018, 03:01 PM
#26
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Thread Starter
Re: Lock,
If glass, it may be impossible to add a T-handle Lockbar/deadbolt. If polycarbonate, no problem.
Re: fit,
The idea is to see if the glass will overlap well with "face" of the opening. There may also be a curve (I haven't verified yet) on the vertical side of the opening, but the weather-stripping / seal should be able to compensate for that. Seems like bending to accommodate the curve fit will not be a problem: http://www.mulfordplastics.com/Liter....aspx?ID=77007
Options are:
1) Try existing ones at the junk yard (not sure if people there would allow that),
2) Fellow members to confirm if they have already tried already tried a particular existing window, OR
3) Just buy polycarb sheet and shape it.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 02-20-2018 at 03:10 PM.
02-20-2018, 05:04 PM
#28
I'm pretty sure the back window is glass, I remember locking my keys in the S10 blazer and I thought I could get around the rear lock by lifting up on the glass and prying at the lock to break into the car...to make a long story short, the back window ended up exploding in a million pieces, lol. It also has a little metal edge trim piece that goes around the window, if I remember correctly that is what the little gas struts attach to.
02-21-2018, 02:24 PM
#29
Could always try a piece of plexiglass.
I replaced the back window on my old truck topper with tinted plexi and it looked fine after 2yrs exposed to the CA sun before I stupidly didn't buy it back from insurance when someone totaled it in the parking lot of my apartment.
I replaced the back window on my old truck topper with tinted plexi and it looked fine after 2yrs exposed to the CA sun before I stupidly didn't buy it back from insurance when someone totaled it in the parking lot of my apartment.
02-21-2018, 02:36 PM
#30
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Thread Starter
Thanks. Yes, actually finding an existing window that will fit the 4Runner may be a low probability so I'm planning on just getting tougher polycarbonate.I hit a scrap one with a baseball bat several times and only managed to scratch it 
Plus, it's easier and safer to cut/machine/work with than plexiglas.
Also, planning to get one that's already tinted from the factory.
Plus, it's easier and safer to cut/machine/work with than plexiglas.Also, planning to get one that's already tinted from the factory.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 02-21-2018 at 02:38 PM.
02-21-2018, 02:47 PM
#31
You have already deleted the rear wiper, but will need to mindful when you wash poly.
There is a slight arc top to bottom of the factory glass (?) But it is straight flat side to side? A picture is worth a thousand words, hell yours even had notes so it's 1020, but I didn't get it I think..
There is a slight arc top to bottom of the factory glass (?) But it is straight flat side to side? A picture is worth a thousand words, hell yours even had notes so it's 1020, but I didn't get it I think..
03-27-2018, 04:54 PM
#32
Exactly what inspired me.
It worked, right? Why convert to a roll-up window that would get stuck if battery dies, is slow to open and close, makes the tailgate heavy, and does not add any shelter from a San Diego (LOL!) drizzle when opened? Toyota could have put all that engineering effort toward a better cranking system, a better headlight system, etc.
Yes, I just need to look for nicer hinges. If that's yours, mind sharing pictures of how weather stripping is applied and where?
How the latch works? Lockable from outside and can be operated from inside? Or maybe the tailgate locks window in place like 84 yota dude says above^^^?
It worked, right? Why convert to a roll-up window that would get stuck if battery dies, is slow to open and close, makes the tailgate heavy, and does not add any shelter from a San Diego (LOL!) drizzle when opened? Toyota could have put all that engineering effort toward a better cranking system, a better headlight system, etc.
Yes, I just need to look for nicer hinges. If that's yours, mind sharing pictures of how weather stripping is applied and where?
How the latch works? Lockable from outside and can be operated from inside? Or maybe the tailgate locks window in place like 84 yota dude says above^^^?
I am really wanting to see this work..
the roll down rear glass is one of the things I hate about my 94
For your rear 'glass' material look at Makrolan. it is comparable to Lexan and they use it to make headlights.
Not as prone to UV as polycarbonate
Last edited by dropzone; 03-27-2018 at 04:56 PM.
03-27-2018, 06:50 PM
#33
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Thread Starter
Ray granted my trekker was beat, but the rear hatch leaked like crazy..I know my 81 Trekker wasn't the only one.
I am really wanting to see this work.. the roll down rear glass is one of the things I hate about my 94
For your rear 'glass' material look at Makrolan. it is comparable to Lexan and they use it to make headlights.
Not as prone to UV as polycarbonate
I am really wanting to see this work.. the roll down rear glass is one of the things I hate about my 94
For your rear 'glass' material look at Makrolan. it is comparable to Lexan and they use it to make headlights.
Not as prone to UV as polycarbonate
Makrolon seems to be a type of Poly carb. Reasonably priced, too.
04-05-2018, 09:28 PM
#34
Registered User
Check out the back window in this T4r. Wish there was a better pic of how the glass was connected and how it opened.
https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/pml/...537609815.html
https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/pml/...537609815.html
04-05-2018, 10:10 PM
#35
Check out the back window in this T4r. Wish there was a better pic of how the glass was connected and how it opened.
https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/pml/...537609815.html
https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/pml/...537609815.html
http://Images.craigslist.org/00V0V_h...z_1200x900.jpg
04-06-2018, 09:10 AM
#37
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Thread Starter
It is just an insert.. Look at the last image, its wedged up under the roof rack.
http://Images.craigslist.org/00V0V_h...z_1200x900.jpg
http://Images.craigslist.org/00V0V_h...z_1200x900.jpg
No better than stock, except that it eliminated the mechanism in the tailgate and it no longer depends on electricity to open.
Unlike original idea on this post, it that would not allow access to rear deck without opening the tailgate, AND like stock, it would not offer a little cover from a drizzle when opened.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 04-06-2018 at 09:14 AM.
07-11-2018, 12:17 PM
#38
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Did you make any progress on this? My rear window key has never worked and leaning over the driver seat while holding all my stuff/chucking it on the ground to roll the window down so I can then throw my stuff in the back isn't very convenient.
07-12-2018, 06:04 AM
#39
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Thread Starter
07-14-2018, 06:43 AM
#40
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Ray,
Here are some thoughts,
I would try to recess the glass as much as possible inside the cap to reduce leaks. You may need to build a fiberglass lip where the current window runs. Try to keep the glass as close to the stock position as possible.
I would abandon the the idea of finding an existing back window that will work. All will require customization. I do think you can canabalize hinges and latching/locking mechanisms. I’d go the the junkyard and pull a bunch of hinges and use cardboard or plexiglass to start mocking it up. Find the hinges that will work and then worry about the glass. If you go with flat glass, you can have a custom piece of safety glass cut to fit perfectly.
I would consider reinforcing the fiberglass where you put the hinges. The window won’t be that heavy, but I could see the shear stresses from the arc of opening and closing creating cracks. The area may be fine, I’d just be prepared after good inspection.
Sounds like an fun project.
Here are some thoughts,
I would try to recess the glass as much as possible inside the cap to reduce leaks. You may need to build a fiberglass lip where the current window runs. Try to keep the glass as close to the stock position as possible.
I would abandon the the idea of finding an existing back window that will work. All will require customization. I do think you can canabalize hinges and latching/locking mechanisms. I’d go the the junkyard and pull a bunch of hinges and use cardboard or plexiglass to start mocking it up. Find the hinges that will work and then worry about the glass. If you go with flat glass, you can have a custom piece of safety glass cut to fit perfectly.
I would consider reinforcing the fiberglass where you put the hinges. The window won’t be that heavy, but I could see the shear stresses from the arc of opening and closing creating cracks. The area may be fine, I’d just be prepared after good inspection.
Sounds like an fun project.
