id advise not driving it with a bad pump the belt can whip off the pulley into other belts or the fan an break things

if you must drive it pull that belt off but yeah the chirping is the belt rubbing on the pulley when its out of alignment it'll also wear the pulley abnormally

im glad to help, in high school i was the teachers aide with a night class of adults teaching them how to work on their cars most satisfying was this 70+ yr old lady who had a vw bug she'd bought new had less than 4K miles on it an she had no idea how to check the oil or LOL even where the motor was she'd let the full service station attendants take care of it which they dont have anymore

 

Okay guys, ill try and get to it, and i haven't been driving it really.... just a few miles beings she's not inspected...hate to let her sit and i live in the boonies so it's okay as far as getting a ticket haha

Ima look in my haynes manual....and my downloaded fsm....but if you guys know of any good links i'll gladly look at them!

 

Here she was in the 2 foot of snow we got, it snowed a few more hours after this pic, but no noticeable water entrances when it melted like my old cab so woo-hoo!(my old cabs windshield leaked bad!)

 

yep had that leak with my old 79 new gasket an windsheild fixed it (old glass was separating at its layers)

couple weeks back we had drifts like that

 

Well it was a new windshield....just the people that installed didnt know what they were doing and it leaked ever since being installed haha

and in va where im at 2 ft is pretty significant haha

Would this be the bearing i'd need....(the top one) for the uh vane pump shaft...what is that....haynes doesn't show/call it that

http://www.toyotapartszone.com/Page_...onentsID=45-02

 

Old cab.....who knew the dashpad held water for times of emergency lol and i could've had the windshield re-put in, but it had been in so long that my floor boards were done.

 

well when it warms up use a hose an see if ya can find the leak a good choice is aquarium silicone it sticks to anything an makes a flexible seal so heating an cooling wont break it lose likely its tween the gasket an body not the gasket an glass find the leak an lift the seal squeeze the silicone in an press it into the joint wipe off the excess before it sets up

or find a windshield place an have them reseal it they will use a tar like sealant heated to 120+ an inject it along the edges

 

CO posted this that shaft bearing part should be all ya need at worse ask your local toyo dealer to look it up

 

I overlooked that link.... Why are bearings so ridiculously priced!?!

and i don't need to seal it anymore, that was what happened in the old cab which eventually led to floorboard rot.

 

cause usually its the seals that go not bearings if you can pull the bearing an find a place that sells timikin they make bearings for everything long as they can find the specs on it they likely can find a bearing for it (the specs are usually stamped or etched on the race)

bit more work but might net you a cheaper bearing price wise

 

My recommendation? .......

Pull the belt/pump, disassemble, pull bearing, take it in to NAPA, they'll usually find it for ya. .. They found a German bearing for me that fit my idler pulley perfectly..... been in there for 100k mi. The counter friend of mine took out a Micrometer, asked me, "for your Yota?", and then went back for 5 minutes, came out and handed me one... Its been in there ever since.

Also, ... I had a reman'd one from O'reilly for over 100k in my white 4runner..... Beck Arnley .... This is one instance where I dont feel its so critical to stay OEM. Preferable? ALWAYS! Lol... But, they offer lifetime warranty to u at the parts giants, and its a fairly easy swap, if it died in a few years. Also,.... ur down only for hours whole u swap out pumps.....

Also, if u do repair urs, u might want to do the o-ring, collar and other o-ring on the top while ur there (parts stores dont give ya that, u have to pull ur reservoir feed elbow o-ring and dual vacuum port idle up apparatus).

 

Here is the other half of that pump post. atleast the important part.
If you have a look at the manual, the 90's era VZN model pumps(SR-42) use a floating shaft no bearing to wear out. As long as you don't overtighten the belt they should pretty much last forever or untill they clog

Also for you yard rats*cough chef* notice these pump assemblys are unobtanium now, from the OEM dealers. reman units 90-155$ Ouch.

Timken # 203AB, ~10$ from rockauto

And finally good glass installers warranty for leaks, and they test them too when they are finished.

 

Well I'm gonna order the bearing from toyota, no biggie on the price, it was just i remembered paying like crazy for the throwout bearing too.... Anyways i can't complain...a 30$ part that will hopefully last another 25 years!

Possibly buy a sway bar rebuild/bushing kit thing too. Hoping to get some more time to work on the truck within the coming weeks! Can't wait! Do all cheap mods for a while haha. Like a good cleaning, possibly wire up some 6x9s behind the seat, get a toolbox, install some parts i got laying around....plenty to do, no time to do it.

 

Tried tinkering with the horn today.... Still no workie, but did learn some stuff.

First off I have 3 horns, all 3 of these work on a toyota truck, tried today, just not mine.
Next can someone verify in these pics that this is what should light up my test light.

Ok so here I am with my test light....know i had it on a good ground, tapped positive on my battery to see if it would light up(dad taught me that)

Check the 15amp fuse that powers my horn and my hazards


It has power on both sides of the fuse just like it should

Now I'm at the horn harness, two wires....
Green one with red(Runs into cab to the horn plunger thing)
Blue one with yellow(Not sure where he goes, quite yet)

Here I am touching the green/red wire, doesn't light up my test light

Here I am touching the blue wire, it does light up.


Now just a thought....but does the plunger have to be depressed for the green/red wire to have current?
Also, I haven't really messed with any of my grounds, I haven't messed with them because, if something was grounding it out....Wouldn't other things not work besides my horn?

Thanks guys, I just want to hear my horn...on my truck!

 

im gona go check mine

 

Test under the dash, pin5 green-red (no horn relay involved). Should get the horn to sound if you probe that one to ground(A little weak running thru the lamp maybe). That just leaves the plunger and slip ring or a disconnect in the steering column wire to those..

On a horn related note. I had some twit cut me off making a left as he was heading into the bar the other night and really wished I had one of those ferry horns from the youtube videos !@#$. Woulda nailed him if I wasn't driving my mom back from an appointment.

 

ok yes you should have power to ONE side of that connector NOT both
now connect your test light to POSITIVE + on your battery an put it to the one that had no power an push your horn button

if it dont light an it should! every time you push the horn! somethings up in the steering column i JUST did this on my runner an my horn works

so for logic's sake (+) ---- fuse --- horn ---- slide contact in steering wheel ---- plunger when pushed makes circuit complete to --- (-)

ok following so far? so feeding + via the test light will light up if the horn button is pressed as that button is making the connection

 

I did CO 94s test(touching pin) and my horn didn't make a peep

Did Cyberhorns test, that neither wire lite up:/

Any ideas whats up guys?

 

Sounds like the disconnect is between the bottom of the steering wheel and the horn. You can confirm this by doing his test at my location. Probe clip to power, probe to #5, light should be on when you press the horn. There is power on pin #4(Blue) or the brake pedal switch Green-Red, or somewhere else of your choosing.

 

either your plunger is bad the sliding point which allows the steering wheel to turn an still make electrical contact or the connector CO is saying