PS> Here's some videos of what I got done in only a couple hours, today.... WOOT! HAHA....>>>> My question on installing the rear diff is, ....do I put sealant on there, .... a gasket? I can't seem to find info on that when I printed out those couple 'instruction pages' sets...

 

i used silicon, worked great

 

i used black RTV worked great never had a problem and yes trucks have that same cross tube thing

on the motor thing yes i believe you can have a used block bored out and resurfaced and all to accept the parts you already have no problem people do it all the time

 

Thanks, Twisted, NV!

I'ma clean up the surfaces a lil, as it's got this like wax paper type seal on there that's falling apart... Don't wanna be half arsed, ya know? I'll be careful, promise! lol.

OH, and I'm pulling the block tomorrow, Lord willin and the Creek don't rise. Just have to find out if I can get the hoist from my neighbor first. Man, it'll be a lot easier with the head off there, ....don't think I have to pull the hood off, as a matter of fact, lol. After I send the motor off and find another one(IF THAT IS WHAT I DO, instead of a swap....still having to calculate if I can do the latter, ya know?).....then it'll have the new gears and locker in there, ready to go when I get it back.

Gotta figure out how to best transport the block in the CRV too! lol. GRRR, haha.

 

Man, I hope you finally get this straighten out and really just enjoy your truck

 

Mark I still think a new to you block is the way to go man, you don't want to do a rush job on a full on swap, I say get it up and running with as little $$$ as possible and then if you wana do the swap gather your parts and knowledge at least you'll be able to drive it and you'd have a somewhat fresh 22re with some high end parts to barter with. Just my opinion

 

Wow Mark, alot has happened here. Sorry for my absence lately, I read as much here as I could but still am not caught up. I can't wait for things here to settle down some so that I can get back in the swing of things.

 

Hey Jason, ... I hear ya! My neighbor is a REALLY good guy, and he's basically told me, "This time, PLEASE, go to Kelly's! Go get your head back, rocker assembly, everything at that place, and take the block to him as well. He even does aluminum and block welding... if it can be fixed, he'll fix it right, if not, he'll HAVE another 22re, FOR SURE, and swap it out for ya on the cheap. Plus, he'll guarantee all his work for 3 years up to 50K miles!".... So that's what I'm going to do.

Hey Rob, .... I HEAR YOU, AS WELL! LOL. Life has been CRAZY for me, plus all the other stuff, but I've decided to do this over, do it right and do all the suspension while I'm waiting. Still have to finish installing the rear third and then do the front third, and I'll have the block out, so I can do the pan, then, and get to some of the suspension stuff easier, maybe? lol Either way, it will be lighter up front, hahaha. Can't wait to try out the locker and A GOOD MOTOR!

Space, ....I might have found an 85 xtra cab 4x4 that a friend might want to give to me. It's motorless and transless, lol..... but the drivetrain has 80K on it and has never really been wheeled. He's trying to decide whether he wants to take it on or just get it out of there(he's loaded, lol). So, if that works out and you still have the 3RZ then, .... it might be a GREAT plan for a project. Big Mike says "not a piece of cake, but GREAT swap!", lol. What year is the motor, and is it an auto, etc.? Any ECU or Wiring stuff on it?

 

GUYS;

I have so many differing opinions on this one... thought I'd ask............(just out of curiosity)

*** What is the general consensus on 'sealing up the diff to axle housing surface'???***

Many say "just seal it up with that Toyota FIPG you have"..... and others, some that do axles, etc. for a living, say, "NO, get the gasket, trust me, .... it makes a much better seal and is less difficult to clean up if you have to get in there again for some reason".

Just curious what you guys think about "FIPG alone" or "Get the Gasket, of course it's better"...>??? lol. Why not, it's a good time filler, right? lol.

* On a side note, I ordered the gasket from Toyota, 5.50$ with my discount, .......can't be a bad thing, right? I mean, mine didn't leak for 260K, ya know? hahahaha. Only thing is, ...it wont be here till the morn. No rush, as I have to disconnect a few more things and wait for the cable from my neighbor, anyway. (he helped me drag over his electric hoist, today(the one I used the first time.... MAN that was nice having an electric one, lol).

* Another side note... on the top and bottom of the axle/diff housing area, ....there are two spots I guess that the gears run? The axle portion seems to be tweaked a lil right there, ...it's like burred, sticking out a lil. Is that normal to occur after 260K? I was VERY careful pulling out the old diff, and it came out no problems... but I guess I may have still inadvertently caused the tweakage on the bottom groove. eh? I'll get pics asap, sorry. hahaha.

(PS> I have to put it back together in order to roll out of the garage to get the motor out of the engine bay.... but I can't do that with the axles removed, lol).

 

Well I like gaskets to be honest...Maybe a gasket with a lil film of the goop to help out some.

.

 

Im with lumpy gasket and a thin layer of sealant

 

Actually I have done several of these and they come from the factory with sealant only. I have used everything from FIPG to the "right stuff" to regular black RTV and have never had a leak.

 

SWEET, instant responses! Woot! lol.

Yeah, it's gonna be available(the gasket) at 7:30AM in the morn tomorrow, ....what's my rush, right? lol. I KNOW, from speaking to a couple 'rear end and drivetrain specialists" that....."Gaskets are NOT ALWAYS better, depending on the rear end it is... But Yota's? yeah, ...they don't have a 'groove' in the cover, which is often better to just throw a fat bead in and call it a day"... One was talking about the diffs that just have a Cover, like the 9" Ford Rear end I had to work on once, lol. "The Yota diffs are smooth on both sides, and sealer can work fine... but if it doesn't, ...well, then you're pulling it again and have that stuff to pick and scrape outta there all over again!" lol.. Someone told me "I use a gasket, but only sealer on the axle side, not on the diff side. That way, when I have to pull it, if I have to pull it..... The gasket USUALLY stays in place and in tact." Hmmm, interesting topic, lol.

(Any thoughts on the 'burring'? lol) Still gotta get a pic, promise, I'll get it soon! haha.

 

Hey Rob! Man, just reading your 'sig' goodies makes me get the goosebumps! lol. You're REALLY getting that thing sweet!

Far as the seal... Just curious... mine had a gasket, for sure. I just spent a while scraping it off. From the looks of it, and considering I bought it with 100K and never took it apart, ....I'm assuming it's factory. Do you mean that "when they REDO them at the factory" or "straight from the dealer, brand new" ???

Honest, I'm not trying to argue, ...and if it's actually better to use only FIPG, I SURELY wanna know ....... I just figured 'why not', since I'm playing the "HURRY UP AND WAIT' game, .....again, ....ya know? haha.

Far as the burring, did you have that on your housing when you went to put in the new 5.29's? (<<< DANG, just saying that, makes me wanna CRAWL UP SOMETHING! HAHAHA)

 

Burr???? It's spring not fall nice and warm!

Well if you don't like it where it is file it smooth...That's what I'd do.

 

yea just file the burr smooth, I just used sealer on my diff, I dont want any leaks and am confident the sealer will do good.

 

also remember on my housing i moded it to fit the elocker so not as smooth as the factory, with yours the gasket may be just fine.

 

Hey guys, .... Lumpy, .... lol.

Thanks, Cougar, ....

I actually got a lot done today with the time I had. Got the rear third in, everything out of the way(except for the bell housing bolts) and should be pulling it tomorrow. (I appreciate the input and ideas, ...and some that I've got, especially one PM I had, ....great ideas.... But I just cannot feel like I'm doing this all right, from the beginning... THE SECOND BEGINNING, lol, until I pull it and have it checked out/replaced/whatever, lol)

The guy I have that's gonna check/verify/etc., everything, is VERY highly respected and has an INSANE SHOP, .... unreal! I feel much better just knowing that I'll be double checking everything, etc. Also, my injector mounting boots are all cracked! They're new, wth? lol. Maybe that's one that's worth a stop at Toyota? lol.

Anyway, got some pics for ya..........

Got the third ready........


Cleaned out the housing, LIKE CRAZY, lol.... SERIOUS sludge in there....


Filed down these BURRS! lol........

Top slot...


Bottom slot...


The gasket material that, as far as I know, was in there for 262K Miles....


TADAAAAAAAAAH! HEHEHE.............


I'll probably get pics of the SECOND pulling of the beast.... And I hope nothing ELSE goes wrong in that process....

Now I need to find out EXACTLY what seal I need for the trans and where to get it(pretty sure it's the outermost main seal leaking into the bellhousing and out) I replaced the .....Input Shaft Bearing?... when I did my clutch,.... all of them bearings and goodies, ...but I guess that one is right behind that? Oh well, we'll see what a PITA it is when i get there, lol. really would LOVE to stop that leak!

 

Nice Mark looking good man!!!

Did you have any issues pulling the axles out?

.

 

You probably replaced the throwout bearing that rides on the pressure plate. the seal you are looking for is the trans input shaft seal.