Hey Lumpy,

Thanks alot! Feels good to have something productive done! lol. Far as you're asking about trouble with the axles...Nope, they slid right out, CAKE! Took me a lil while longer to do this job than some, because I did everything to torque values called for in the FSM(I'm sure many do, lol).... and because it'd never been apart and that paper stuff and residue...WOW, man, some of that stuff did NOT wanna come off! lol.

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Hey Truckman, ...THANKS!

I replaced the Pilot and (EDIT>>> MISSPELLING>>>)Throughout(Throwout), that much I know, lol. I just have to read back in my thread here, lol....it's actually in there, hahaha. Just not a lot of time, lately, ....FHEW! LOL.

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Just curious... anyone else having issues trying to multi-quote? I've not been able to do so in days. Thanks

 

Glad to see you gaining some ground mark.

 

Hey Jason, ....

Yeah, ....the thing is, ....I didn't feel TOTALLY TICKED or frustrated enough, ..... so I figured, ..."hey, I think I should totally forget how to work that electric engine hoist.... YEP, sounds good!" lol..... Yeah, the motor could have been dropped off today, MAYBE, but it's ok, I was just joking about being ticked off, lol. Sall good

I think the switch is missing, .....cuz I don't see a single place to operate it,....and trust me, I REALLY looked, hahaha.

Oh well, .... at least it's nearly ready to come out. BTW, I think its' unlikely that that trans is ONLY leaking there.... seems to be back by the transfer case as well. We'll see.

 

glad to hear you are making things happen in your corner of the world man don't get flusterd it will all work out as far as youre leak goes is it leaking form the output of the transfer or what

 

Hey Guys, ......... one more time................




tied up the trans with a ratchet strap..........


Hooked up the snap on Cable and the electric/Hydrolic hoist and POOOOOOF! ........



Almost all the goodies in the bumm, waiting to be transferred to the CRV and dropped off at the NEW BUILDER, tomorrow, to give me a what's what, maybe re-ring, etc.......


Yes, that box is a set of new valves. The head being at that stage will save him some time, so that's good, plus it's been hot tanked, not bad either. The dirty box is all my other stuff removed from the head(old valves, etc.)

Anyway, wanted to mention that "I had my 261 Straightened"..... by Engle Cams, now in Paramount. Yes, it was around 6thousandths off in the center journal. I could feel it when I tried to turn the cam by hand still in the journal keepers and in the head. Ted of engnbldr told me that's perfectly common, and it's never caused a problem that he's known of. But, the machinist I was gonna use told me, "Please, trust me, and it'll be cheap, I promise... they LOVE to help out DIY'ers!"..... And it was, ....10$ and 5 minutes later, "It's dead nuts on all 3, 0.0000 thousandths off, literally like butter".... and then told me as I wrapped it up, "BE VERY GENTLE with those..... they bend EXTREMELY EASY, which most people don't know, and certainly the post office doesn't give two hoots of! lol"

Another thing; Tod, engnbldr-Pop's, as you saw in the email I posted here........... He likes the bronze guides, even in stock builds. BUT, ...he said, "I ONLY use Manganese Bronze Guides, ...NEVER the other two types, as they're either crap or in the other case, 'good for racing a couple times before rebuilding again' types.... VERY soft!"

I will post his email here.... but just wanted to share. He also said, "Chilled iron are good, too...but the Toyota ones are the best, and they're NOT CHEAP for 8!" lol.

Anyway, I'll keep ya all updated as to whether this block can be saved, will it be re-ringed, and I'll move on to the front diff swap and trans main front seal(if that is, indeed, what's leaking! lol)

LATER GUYS, AND THANKS FOR ALL YOUR SUPPORT OVER THIS ,....LET'S SEE... ...OMGOSH, MORE THAN A YEAR????????? HAHAHA!

 

thts interesting about the guides. glad to here everything is finally coming together with the better shop and the new gears.

 

hope it turns out good this time.

 

nice day here in SoCal... keep up the good work

 

Yea for the Chef!!!

I can' wait for you to get this all together again...

 

Have I not been paying enough attention? Where'd that shnazzy light bar come from? lol Just noticed that!

Oh yeah, and good work man! Keep it up! PM me about that mojave trip too!

 

Hey guys,.... thanks a LOT for the encouragement..... I'LL TAKE IT! lol...........

Actually, I'm not laughing....

That machinist/builder I visited, today, said, "I could patch that up, but with the cost of that, plus re-ringing the block, possibly some bearings(those might be good).... You could just get another bare block. Plus, that 'FIX' might not hold for good(meaning the next 100K) and the place it's in..... it's just a really bad one, because it's right on the upper edge, where, to do it right, ....Hmmm, I wouldn't weld it, it's just not right for that..... but I would probably hone the portion around the hole flat, then insert a type a washer... it's a lot of work for something like that, ....and I'm sure a core short block would be on the CHEAP, .....and wouldn't be 'REPAIRED' like this one would have to be. Yeah, ....I just can't tell you 'YEAH, THIS WOULD WORK FINE AND NEVER GIVE YOU A PROBLEM!'... and I don't like doing work like that. I get other peoples mistakes, just like yours, ALL THE TIME! Have 3 of them, right now, waiting.... ONE OF THEM, ACTUALLY>>>> from the guy you used, Vellios! ......Plus, These cylinders are REALLY glazed, ...that's not good. That's the primary reason you have all the washing of the tops of the pistons... OHhhh, and these two look to be the worst, ...3&4, ... Yeah, This will not be cheap, unless that's what you want. I could do the entire head with manganese bronze guides, all new springs, go through your rockers, ...maybe 300$, maybe more. The Block? Probably around 600$,...it'll be a new block, so resurfacing the cylinders and starting over with new rings, possibly new bearings, plus, I'll be checking the crank, etc., doing the deck and head surfaces.... Sup to you. With Gaskets, most likely around 1000$ Oh, and I'm VERY backed up.... at least 2 weeks to get started.".............

Yeah, ...not my best day. But, I got a lot done, .....however pointless it was! hahahaha.

 

Been wondering what you found out sounds like solid honest advice. Hope this Guy treats ya right

 

man that sucks chef i hate to here that all you got is expensive news man any way keep your head up it will get better

 

Yeah, I hear ya guys....

He also gave me his 3 suppliers for blocks, ....told me I could 'throw his name in there, ..just say it's for me'! lol.

 

...time for a 3.4 swap!

Thats so odd though. I've only ever heard of 3.slow's ever having major issues. I'm not sure I've ever heard of a 22re block in that bad of a condition! Sorry to hear your having such bad luck Chef, but keep your head up! Us toyota owners HAVE to be crazy enough to want to do all the work required to keep our rigs going strong and passing every jeep, chevy, dodge, and ford on the trails!

 

Sounds no good Chef. A different motor swap might be what ya need. It would cost the same or at least right about in the same ball park

 

Well, I'd love to just swap in that 3RZ of Space Junks.... but the portion of tearing the dash completely apart and rewiring a whole new harness... That's just out of my league.... AT LEAST,...it is in the sense that it would take me FAR too much time, researching all that needs to be done, then getting a good ECU, harness(or wiring into mine, ....even trickier I'd imagine). At least with that one it wouldn't require new mounts, etc.,...just modified ones, from what I read.

If Space knew how to do it and was willing to help me do it in a weeks time, etc., ...then I'd be set, hahaha ..I'd DEFINITELY go for it. Not sure he could take a week to help me, nor that he'd want to, hahaha. I wouldn't blame him, either.

I have to decide whether I want Kelly's Machining to swap out my stuff or just do most of it myself(it's a time factor thing...2 Weeks, just to get started?), or just swap in a complete motor. I just don't trust these major reman places(Other than Putney's..... those are lookin sweet. ....But, ....2400$??? lol). And, I'm not sure that most of this is out of my league(except for honing and re/cleaning of/threading whatever block I find). If I can find a block for around 100$, then just account for new rings and POSSIBLY bearings, another (HOW MUCH?) for the machining of the swap block.....then I should be able to slap everything from this block(like I said, minus the bearings maybe and for sure the rings), and take my time(like a week?)... I bet I could get the block done for under 300$? Plus 140$ for the head work(new guides and seals).... (I already have the Broken in CAM, Rocker assembly, Valve Set, OEM HG-TCover Gaskets, Front and Rear Seals, Intake Gasket, Tbody Gasket, new Timing Kit).... I mean, how much could it cost, me?

What have a got to lose? .............I KNOW, ......"another year!" hahaha.

Things I have that lean toward getting a 22re working.....

1. New Timing Cover, Oil Pump, Water Pump
2. Alternator
3. RC Serviced Injectors
4. Head that can be rebuilt just fine
5. Just Broken in 261 CAM
6. Rocker Assembly Seems to Check out with 2 machinists now(they could have said, "Yeah, we'll rebuild it, looks iffy",..they didn't)
7. Complete Set of Engnbldr Valves
8. From Putney's; OEM Head Gasket, Tcover Gasket, Intake Gaskets, TBody Gasket, EGR, Gasket, Exhaust Gasket(had that)
9. New Pistons, etc.(Rods should be fine, Crank is low mile from 95 4Runner)

Things I WOULD need;

1. Replacement Block
2. Rings
3. Bearings(Possibly?)
4. Plastiguage Set
5. Block Work(Boring to 20over, work on threads of all the bolt holes)

Any ideas as to what that would cost me, if I do SOME of it myself(dis-assembly, reassembly)>?????????????

Guess I could find out tomorrow. But curious what some of you would pay for the block work, etc.(The last guy I was just at the other day, actually seemed reasonable and the guy today said, "He's a really odd guy, but a great machinist!")

 

I wouldn't think it should be more than a few hundred bucks on the high side plus the cost of the block.

 

I donno man...I just donno.

I think if it were me, I'd get a block and have it gone over and bored 20 over. Get a rebuild kit from engnbldr (pistons, rings, bearings, everything that you need) and either get the bigger head from Ted or have yours redone. Then I'd assemble it myself.

That's just me though...I'm cheap.

 

Well out here all of the block stuff would cost $155. Thats machining and boil. I would get the block work done and assy myself. Its really not that hard all you need is a torque wrench and some plastiguage.