Broke and driftin SAS
03-04-2014, 01:58 PM
#22
Registered User
All bias aside, the All-Pro springs are much better quality than trail gear springs.
A quick google search would net you lots of opinions from people who have had TG springs fail/ sag after only a year whereas Allpro springs are known to go for a decade.
A quick google search would net you lots of opinions from people who have had TG springs fail/ sag after only a year whereas Allpro springs are known to go for a decade.
03-05-2014, 01:37 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
Also where should i get a frontend seal kit or rebuild kit??? It was in a running vehicle when it came out so do i need to replace the bearings or can i get by with just doing the seals?
As for the 4.3 swap i now have the advance adapters bellhousing with fj40 slave, centerforce clutch and pressure plate (the gold one hehe), the throwout bearing and arm, a power steering bracket to use the toy pump on the 4.3 but im going to run the serpentine belt so ill use the gm pump.
Having a hard time finding a decent setup like i want, 92-95 cpi vortec blazer bravada van or s10 truck. The tbi's and 96 and up are so abundant but the cpi's are kinda hard to find. I want an entire running vehicle to use.
03-11-2014, 06:12 AM
#24
Thanks scuba!!! I appreciate the input. I havent bought any springs yet, but i got sidetracked makin a lil extra dough fixing a 92 2wd for a freind thats taking up my garage space.
Also where should i get a frontend seal kit or rebuild kit??? It was in a running vehicle when it came out so do i need to replace the bearings or can i get by with just doing the seals?
As for the 4.3 swap i now have the advance adapters bellhousing with fj40 slave, centerforce clutch and pressure plate (the gold one hehe), the throwout bearing and arm, a power steering bracket to use the toy pump on the 4.3 but im going to run the serpentine belt so ill use the gm pump.
Having a hard time finding a decent setup like i want, 92-95 cpi vortec blazer bravada van or s10 truck. The tbi's and 96 and up are so abundant but the cpi's are kinda hard to find. I want an entire running vehicle to use.
Also where should i get a frontend seal kit or rebuild kit??? It was in a running vehicle when it came out so do i need to replace the bearings or can i get by with just doing the seals?
As for the 4.3 swap i now have the advance adapters bellhousing with fj40 slave, centerforce clutch and pressure plate (the gold one hehe), the throwout bearing and arm, a power steering bracket to use the toy pump on the 4.3 but im going to run the serpentine belt so ill use the gm pump.
Having a hard time finding a decent setup like i want, 92-95 cpi vortec blazer bravada van or s10 truck. The tbi's and 96 and up are so abundant but the cpi's are kinda hard to find. I want an entire running vehicle to use.
Chris, Go with the Marlin rebuild kit. That's what I bought, and am going to use for mine. Cost a little more but seems of way better quality!
03-11-2014, 05:55 PM
#25
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03-12-2014, 06:45 AM
#26
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When you buy a knuckle rebuild kit they come with Trunnion Bearings standard, both major vendors of these kits offer them with the wheel bearing as well for an additional cost. Not a bad idea to do them while your in there at least it's a dirty job and worth doing right the first time.
03-12-2014, 06:55 PM
#28
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Thread Starter
So allpro offers a 4 or 5" front lift spring and it says the 4" is for 33-35" tires and the 5"is for 35-36" tires plus you gain on the shackles as well.
03-13-2014, 06:59 AM
#29
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Depends on what bearings you are asking about, if your asking about trunnions then the kit is retailed at 99, if you atre asking about a service kit with wheel bearings then no, it retails at 179.00. Both of these prices are full blown retail though and not what I would sell at. PM me and I can get you a quote if you want.
03-13-2014, 12:54 PM
#30
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Hey nice build, it's similar to mine.
I did an SAS with cheavy 63's in the back, I was able to get a comfortable 4-5" from them by getting 3/4 ton springs and not removing any leafs (I have a camper) I made the front mounts out of 3" HSS and about a 6" rear shackle, the rears up front with a moderate shackle are almost even, there's a light forward rake which is what I like.
I did the SAS a couple years ago now I'm getting ready for my engine swap, going to put in a chevy 3.5L inline 5 Atlas engine bolted to the r150 (no adapters required), want to have it ready for camping season, the 4.3l is a good choice though one I considered for a long time before I picked up the 3.5l.
I did an SAS with cheavy 63's in the back, I was able to get a comfortable 4-5" from them by getting 3/4 ton springs and not removing any leafs (I have a camper) I made the front mounts out of 3" HSS and about a 6" rear shackle, the rears up front with a moderate shackle are almost even, there's a light forward rake which is what I like.
I did the SAS a couple years ago now I'm getting ready for my engine swap, going to put in a chevy 3.5L inline 5 Atlas engine bolted to the r150 (no adapters required), want to have it ready for camping season, the 4.3l is a good choice though one I considered for a long time before I picked up the 3.5l.
03-13-2014, 01:49 PM
#31
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Thread Starter
Hey nice build, it's similar to mine.
I did an SAS with cheavy 63's in the back, I was able to get a comfortable 4-5" from them by getting 3/4 ton springs and not removing any leafs (I have a camper) I made the front mounts out of 3" HSS and about a 6" rear shackle, the rears up front with a moderate shackle are almost even, there's a light forward rake which is what I like.
I did the SAS a couple years ago now I'm getting ready for my engine swap, going to put in a chevy 3.5L inline 5 Atlas engine bolted to the r150 (no adapters required), want to have it ready for camping season, the 4.3l is a good choice though one I considered for a long time before I picked up the 3.5l.
I did an SAS with cheavy 63's in the back, I was able to get a comfortable 4-5" from them by getting 3/4 ton springs and not removing any leafs (I have a camper) I made the front mounts out of 3" HSS and about a 6" rear shackle, the rears up front with a moderate shackle are almost even, there's a light forward rake which is what I like.
I did the SAS a couple years ago now I'm getting ready for my engine swap, going to put in a chevy 3.5L inline 5 Atlas engine bolted to the r150 (no adapters required), want to have it ready for camping season, the 4.3l is a good choice though one I considered for a long time before I picked up the 3.5l.
03-13-2014, 02:40 PM
#32
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The 2004 and up to like 2011? anyway the standard canyon colorados and H3's used the MA5 transmission behind the I5 which is basically an r150, they both share a case to bell pattern (aisin large pattern) so the MA5 bell will bolt an r150 up directly.
It creats some input shaft disparity but that can be sorted out withan AX15 input shaft (swaps into a early pre 95 r150) and a custom pilot bushing then you basically use a mix of chevy and jeep clutch parts to make it all happen.
You can't use the MA5 input shaft becuase the first gears are different and you can't put a modern r150 input into an older r150 becuase they have different helix angles.
I'm hopless with wiring luckilly the guy who sold me the engine wasn't. He was able to wire it all up standalone there's a youtube video of it running on a crate with just a battery and a fuel tank hooked up to it.
If I didnt find such a good deal on the 3.5l I would have tried to find a 3.7l.
In my research I ran across an article that claims an atlas engine bolt battern is the same or very simlilar to the GM v6/v8 pattern which is used on alot of stuff. I don't know if it's true though, woudl make for some interesting combos.
It creats some input shaft disparity but that can be sorted out withan AX15 input shaft (swaps into a early pre 95 r150) and a custom pilot bushing then you basically use a mix of chevy and jeep clutch parts to make it all happen.
You can't use the MA5 input shaft becuase the first gears are different and you can't put a modern r150 input into an older r150 becuase they have different helix angles.
I'm hopless with wiring luckilly the guy who sold me the engine wasn't. He was able to wire it all up standalone there's a youtube video of it running on a crate with just a battery and a fuel tank hooked up to it.
If I didnt find such a good deal on the 3.5l I would have tried to find a 3.7l.
In my research I ran across an article that claims an atlas engine bolt battern is the same or very simlilar to the GM v6/v8 pattern which is used on alot of stuff. I don't know if it's true though, woudl make for some interesting combos.
03-13-2014, 02:50 PM
#33
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One more thing to note, runing the GM engine in your yota isn't that tough you really only need to hook up a few wires (you may have to run a GM fuel pump if the toyta one isn't up to the task) but if you're going to stick with the yota trans then you have to decide how you're going to feed a VSS signal to the GM ECU. It's not critical but it will help with fuel efficieny at highway speeds and the auto trans needs it.
There is an after market VSS that'll slot into the yota tcase but then you no longer have a VSS signal for your yota brain which controlls things like the speedo, Odo and anti lock system.
What I'm doing is leaving the toyota electroninic VSS in place and leaving all the speedo etc. stuff hooked up in the cluster then I'm going to put a reloctor ring somewhere on the output shaft and tap in a GM VSS (wihch isn't gear driven but hall effect) so i'll have both signals running in parallel. Atleast that's the plan.
I Looked into doing this all electronically and it was either not possible or supper expensive.
There is an after market VSS that'll slot into the yota tcase but then you no longer have a VSS signal for your yota brain which controlls things like the speedo, Odo and anti lock system.
What I'm doing is leaving the toyota electroninic VSS in place and leaving all the speedo etc. stuff hooked up in the cluster then I'm going to put a reloctor ring somewhere on the output shaft and tap in a GM VSS (wihch isn't gear driven but hall effect) so i'll have both signals running in parallel. Atleast that's the plan.
I Looked into doing this all electronically and it was either not possible or supper expensive.
03-13-2014, 06:12 PM
#34
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Thread Starter
One more thing to note, runing the GM engine in your yota isn't that tough you really only need to hook up a few wires (you may have to run a GM fuel pump if the toyta one isn't up to the task) but if you're going to stick with the yota trans then you have to decide how you're going to feed a VSS signal to the GM ECU. It's not critical but it will help with fuel efficieny at highway speeds and the auto trans needs it.
There is an after market VSS that'll slot into the yota tcase but then you no longer have a VSS signal for your yota brain which controlls things like the speedo, Odo and anti lock system.
What I'm doing is leaving the toyota electroninic VSS in place and leaving all the speedo etc. stuff hooked up in the cluster then I'm going to put a reloctor ring somewhere on the output shaft and tap in a GM VSS (wihch isn't gear driven but hall effect) so i'll have both signals running in parallel. Atleast that's the plan.
I Looked into doing this all electronically and it was either not possible or supper expensive.
There is an after market VSS that'll slot into the yota tcase but then you no longer have a VSS signal for your yota brain which controlls things like the speedo, Odo and anti lock system.
What I'm doing is leaving the toyota electroninic VSS in place and leaving all the speedo etc. stuff hooked up in the cluster then I'm going to put a reloctor ring somewhere on the output shaft and tap in a GM VSS (wihch isn't gear driven but hall effect) so i'll have both signals running in parallel. Atleast that's the plan.
I Looked into doing this all electronically and it was either not possible or supper expensive.
Buddy Pyrojoe stopped by so i took some pics of his truck.
By the way Joe...thanks for the flip kit u bolts!!!Hope the hydrosteer goes well for you.
03-13-2014, 07:20 PM
#37
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Thread Starter
Just ordered 4" ALLPRO long travel front springs. With shipping was $391. I dont like the ups lady very much in town so i cannot wait til she has to brute these bitche$ to my doorstep.
03-14-2014, 02:50 PM
#40
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Thread Starter
dunno
I read through Pyrojoe's build thread awhile back, very informative build thread, and one sweet truck! It left me wanting to shoehorn a OM617 diesel into my 83' lol.
nothing sweeter than hearin one fire up and blow a big poof of smoke out and here the turbo whine.
ΔΔΔ that made me laugh, nice work so far!
nothing sweeter than hearin one fire up and blow a big poof of smoke out and here the turbo whine.
ΔΔΔ that made me laugh, nice work so far!
