The Mini-Truck and 4 Runner Anti-Sway bars are not wide enough to work with Long Arms. The T-100 ones are 6.5" wider.....to work with the 3.25" longer per side T-100 CV axles!

 

Makes sense. I thought the links were further in than that making them unaffected by the extension of the LCA.

Good to know that there IS a front sway solution though.

 

any updates? and anymore vids of your truck?

 

I am working on the Center Mount Diff similar to what Cassidy has on his 4 Runner. I am hoping it will allow me to put my Long Arm Rancho kit back on so as to cycle 13-14 inches of travel with 4WD. The T-100 CVs in the stock diff mount position only let me cycle around 12" so I took the Rancho stuff off. I have run into front driveshaft angle complications. I believe it to be solved with a T-case doubler which I planned to do anyway. I am also wanting some 5.29 gears with lockers. These are big ticket items so I am having having funding issues so it may be a while. Also spending some money on the Fordota and the 1985 I recently bought. Too many toys!

 

Old post, but had an idea. It you invert the top plate, it would give the spring 3+" more room and soften it up a bit. If that's too much room, then you could cut down some in-coil spacers.

 

For a more minute adjustment, (with the coiler disasembled) you could get an extra nut for the top of the shock and thread is down all the way before you put the shock back in to the coil over assemble.

 

I am over it! I played around with that Taco shock / strut assembly and got as far as I wanted to go with it. Keyword search: Blazeland2011

 

sick runner. how are the front cv axles able to handle that much flex

 

I went with the "Centermount Diff" Here is the build thread:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...runner-223750/

 

that is genius

 

Blaze, I cat not remember if you reinforced the rancho arms or not in the past? With the common failure issue of the rancho arms, do you not think Balljoint spacers would be stronger?

After you mod the inner tripod joint. I will be interested in your opinion on the strength of the cup. I am sure you will test that strength out well.

 

http://www.youtube.com/user/TheBlaze.../0/wqQwfF_ew1A
Just found this new video of Blazeland on Blow-Sand in Ocotillo Wells

 

Yeah, I have been through a couple of pairs of Rancho Arms over the years. I also made a few prototype custom arms to plug into the Rancho design. If you guys search the threads I have been over it a number of times. Anyway I totally agree that bolting a UCA Extension Bracket to the Rancho Arms is sketchy. With that said I have a set of Rancho Arms I broke then repaired and plated / re-inforced. I am going to use these re-inforced arms to bolt the Blazeland UCA Extension Brackets to. The other thing is I am no longer useing the Torsion Bars as it is converted to a Coil-Over. A Coil-Over conversion will reduce the loads on the UCA.

 

The strength of the CV tripod cup is an issue even when unmodified, especially in the aftermarket made in china variety. If you look at the area where material is needing to be removed its in the thick portion. People have been clearancing the cup for years. If its going to split it will be where the wall is the thinnest. As far as testing it, I won't do much besides wheel on it!

 

thanks for clearing that up blaze. keep on the good work man.

 

Is it the strength of the tripod or the fact that it is the first thing to bind when the suspension is modified?? After seeing how the axle contacts the cup it makes me want to question it. The Same with Broken off cups.

 

just read though this thread.. Loved it Nate when I get the cash your were I'm going. I'm totally sold in your kit.

 

Your right! When that axle binds up on the cup something has got to give! Using the standard Blazeland Long Arm configuration without bump or droop stops and the stock location diff there is bind. With a Centermount diff there is no bind at all! Even with the Rancho UCAs with the Blazeland UCA Extension Brackets installed- no bind!

 

One thing that i have learned is the third twists under load from the pinion and the stock rubber bushings are kinda flex y .my point is the CV my not bind with truck siting on a jack but under full load it might.

 

I've been wondering about the twisting action! The factory supports create three points (a nice stable triangle) where what you and I are doing is more like a line (two points). The 7.5 pumkin without the side axle tube (and outrigger 3rd mounting point) is difficult to bolt the extra support to. And welding something to the cast iron housing aint going to be easy either. The Supra 8" design is better suited for mounting stability. I think it can be done but its going to take some work. I like how you used the u-bolt for extra support, but it sounds like it needs more? I have some ideas I will play around with. Keep the dialog comming!