That coating looks great

 

Thanks guys! I am very happy how it turned out as well.

I went with a small company called "STP coatings" in Amity, Oregon. His prices were very reasonable. $120 for all of it to be blasted and coated. Originally I was going to have Oregon Powder coaters do the job, but they didn't offer Ceramic coating.

I give this guy 5***** rating and highly recommend him to any local Portland guys.

 

Hey guys, which line is the line to be deleted? The top or bottom; which needs to be tied into the "T" on the axle?

Update: Top stays and runs directly to the soft line? Bottom is gone and so is the top line going into the LSPV?

 

Duplicate post, internet issues.

 

I think I figured it out. The "T" fitting is to be deleted all together??



my prop valve will go between the line for the rear brakes, but what happens to the "T" fitting?

I am putting too much thought into this process. Most likely complicating it more than necessary. Thanks guys

 

Think I figured this out. From what I just found here on the site.



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It's chaos under the hood right now! 😂😂

 

So brake lines are re-routed. The rain stopped me from pulling the LSPV line, but it is now removed.

I moved on to finishing the block off plates. Question now, how do my heater lines route. I have the one going under the intake, what about the other 2 hoses?

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Weber mod was completed once the heavy rain moved in. 🤓👍🏼

 

Love the work you're putting into this rig man! Way to take a pos swap and make it right.

 

Nice work, love the looks of the ceramic coating!

 

This is awesome, I love that you are fixing this thing up nice, and it is interesting to see how totally screwed the PO had this thing...

Also I live not to far from you up in Tacoma, Wa. I would love to find more guys that live up around here and meet up. I just got my rig running again.

Also....subbed...

 

is the new copper line and port block off a vent reconfiguration?

 

Yes, exactly. Places the fuel vent higher so the carburetor doesn't cut out at high inclines. The mod can be found on MarlinCrawler "How to: Make a Weber climb a hill".

My problem is, I don't have a charcoal canister below the battery box anymore. Didn't think I would ever need it, so to the trash it went. Ideas anyone? Besides the ground...

 

I actually just pulled my charcoal canister if you want it I would sell it cheap...pm me if you want...literally just pulled it today...lmao

 

Dang! Thanks for the offer sgt.

I just went and bought a brass "T" and tapped into my fuel tanks return line. Not sure if this is the correct way, I don't see why it would hurt anything?

 

No problem. When I removed my can, I just bent the fuel tank line and connected it directly to the frame breather line. I may lose some fuel vapor, but I hate how crowded the engine bay is with just crap...all the unnecessary crap...

 

Before the total EGR delete, the crap pile I have of emissions equipment is ridiculous. So much unnecessary crap around these vehicles.

I went to my local hardware store to get a 1/8" NPT barb to do my front axle breather mod. Fitting cost $.89 and the hose(7/32" washer hose) was $4.00. Very cheap and easy mod, and beats paying for someone's kit.



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Yeah it is crazy how much stuff they cream into the engine bay and how interconnected it all is. How many holes you have to plug up is just insane.

 

Hey guys, back at it again. My boat project has been taking up my time as well my fishing.

I have a question, when you do the water block off plates, how do the heater hoses route now?





Will this routing work?