that shouldn't be a problem, Toyonlyswaps has pans and pickup tubes listed and they offer the crossover pipes. I also have a complete, running, T-100 4x4 for everything else I should need. I got it cheap due to the knock in the engine. This one I had rebuilt was a spare that was sitting in the bed. I got it all for $900, so I can afford to spend some coins on the project.

 

Update, I got some new hiking boots for my 4runner, I stayed with Interco and with 37 inch, but I change to the IROK radials.
I also pulled my donor vehicle (96 T-100 automatic 4x4) into the shop and started stripping it down in preparation for my 3.4 swap.
I may end up turning the back half into a trailer before all is said and done, not sure yet.
here's the victim:



the price was right due to something very angry wanting out of the engine block, but it still runs.

 

Exciting! Should be an easy swap, especially with you already having a 3.0 and a nice garage

 

Getting a few things prepped for the 3.4 swap, cut the alternator bracket and shortened it to clear the steering shaft/box since I hear there are clearance issues there.
I'll get a shorter belt later.


Doing some mock-up on the floor to see where I want to route the trans wiring and finally test fitting the crossover.


I still don't want to disable the 4runner until this fall, so I have plenty of time to prep.
Next step, I think I'll drop the trans and t-case off at a tranny shop to be freshened up and resealed.
Just because I'm not a tranny guy.

Got some of the drawings together, Still need the ones showing the body harness and the plug pinouts.
3VZ on top, 5VZ on the bottom. Still thinking I might just pay for premade harness, time is money!

 

Just adding a pro-tip. My 4runner is lifted, SAS, I know I'm going to have issues with getting the engine high enough to clear the core support with my engine hoist so I took some measurements.
Looks like it's going to be close if I remove the front tires and drop the truck til it almost touches the ground.
The problem with that is, the engine hoist will not roll under the solid axle that way.
If I come at it from the side the legs on the engine hoist will go to the front and back of the axle, that might work.
The pro tip is... I'm going to strap the front axle to the frame with heavy duty ratchet straps while it's weighted down with the 3.0.
That will get me a few more inches that I can drop the truck.
I'm also going to make a spreader bar to replace the adjustable one I've been using in the pics and reduce the distance from the hoist to the engine, that will get me another few inches.

 

Interesting because i have an engine swap coming up also and your idea gave me the idea of relaxing the torsion bar adjustment on the IFS to save some headroom.

A friend with an old chevy van puts smaller wooden discs in place of his wheels for winter storage in his basement garage.

 

I put a new alternator on with my shortened lower bracket and went looking for a shorter belt. Snapa couldn't help, so I went to O'really? here's the shortest belt I could get on without grinding away a corner of the driver's side head.

 

The swap is now in progress. No turning back! I made a hole where a 3.4 should be.
These show why I needed the 4runner to kneel before it's master and how I made it happen.
complete engine/trans/t-case removal.

 

With the trans mount, crossmember and exhaust removed you can drop the trans a little and this is the only tool for the job of removing the bell housing bolts!!

 

Here's some progress pictures from the ongoing mission. I found that the T100 motor mount perches are an exact match for the 4runner, also, the new motor mounts are about 1/2 inch taller than the 26 year old beat down mounts.
I'm not sure just how much clearance I have, but with the existing 1" body lift installed by the previous owner I'm able to shut the hood without even cutting the framework.

3.4 ready to fly

Nesting habits of the 5VZFE

 

So, I started this whole odyssey with the idea that if I swapped the entire drivetrain out of the donor T-100 that I'd save a lot of trouble rewiring my automatic to work with the T-100 computer. It looks like there will be minimal repining required but I have created other issues.
If anyone chooses to follow me down this twisty, bumpy road you should be aware that the T-100 automatic and t-case will need some customizing to the tranny mount/crossmember. I will also have to use an aftermarket cable operated shifter or get creative to make something work.
Here's some pictures of the t-case shifter location and the misalignment of the tranny mount.

fits right where the original trans/tcase shifters went.

Looks like some 1/2 inch plate and some gussets should work

at first I didn't think the front driveshaft would clear the crossmember, but it does.
It's also looking like I'll need to take my driveshafts in to have the rear shortened and the front lengthened, just a bit. EDIT: no change was needed.


front driveshaft mocked up at ride height


Full droop
Front driveshaft bolt pattern also doesn't line up, so I'll be knocking the studs out and drilling the flange to fit.

 

So, I started a 3.4 swap thread, I'll put most of this recent info there as well.
Cheers all!!

 

This is a fun ride!!!
But this summer I swapped out the 3 inch rear leaf springs for 5 inch due to sagging after they settled in.
Unfortunately I didn't take into account the extra length and the need to move the shackle mounts.
I folded one shackle completely back until it hit the frame, so I put the 3 inch springs back on and installed 2 inch lift blocks.
this gave me a horrible driveshaft vibration so I swapped for tapered lift blocks.
This winter I plan to cut my shackle mounts out and move them back so I can reinstall the 5 inch springs with a tapered shim to help with pinion angle.
I'll keep documenting the process along the way

 

Time for some updates/maintenance.
I cut/welded the rear shackle mounts to accommodate the 5 inch rear leafs, much better ride height now and more up travel in the rear.

I have also removed the radiator that was starting to come apart an had a slight weep. Due to witness marks on the rad from the fan I had to undo previous hackery where I moved the rad closer to the engine in order to install an auxiliary trans cooler. I now have another 3/4 inch of clearance even after rubber mounting the new aluminum rad. Since I have heard complaints about Aluminum radiators cracking I assumed that body flex was likely the cause so here's what I did.

Rubber isolator with metal sleeve inside
Instead of bolting directly to the core support like the original I drilled larger holes and used some air intake rubber isolators that I have had rolling around in the toolbox forever. With the metal sleeve inside I can tighten the bolt down and the rad can still "float" a bit. Since the aftermarket radiator has a taller fill neck and a larger diameter cap I had to lower the new radiator as much as I could to avoid hitting the hood, I still may end up getting a different cap to increase clearance.
I think for now I'll hang onto the original rad and see if I can find a shop here in Alaska to refurbish it just in case, side mounts/frame are loose and the upper tank is starting to weep.

 

Next order of business, righting some wrongs can make a diff.
Ever since I did my SAS I have had excessive air use from my front locker that has just gotten worse over the years.
I built the rear diff/Zip locker myself, but since I needed a high pinion for the front and have never built one, I bought it assembled, from day 1 it has used more air than the rear.
What I found when I tore it back down this winter was that the copper tube to the seal assembly had broken loose where it is soldered to the seal assembly. Likely cracked in shipping and there being quite a large loop that first went down then back up to the top of the diff and the hose fitting there. Pretty sure this allowed a lot of vibration in the copper line and cracked it more and more over time.
I replaced the seal assembly, both o-rings and pointed it up more, shortened the tube making a more direct path and hopefully preventing vibrations from cracking the solder joint again in the future.
The biggest reason for this post is to address some issues I remember having when I first assembled this axle and how I did it better this time.
First of all, when putting the axles back in I had issues getting the splines to line up so I could drive them in all the way. The trick for me was to turn the locker on and turn the front driveshaft while holding the axle until the splines engaged.
Secondly, in order to get the driver's side axle in I had to push down on the outer end to get the inner end up into place at the diff. This damaged the axle seal and washed out much of the grease in the knuckle, on disassembly there was a significant ding in the seal (sorry no pictures as it was a real mess and so was I). The passenger side wasn't bad at all since it is so much shorter.
Now for the pictures and what I did to save the driver's side seal.

Vise grips and a block of wood helped with disassembly/handling.



special tool I made from a pistol cleaning rod

groove cut to keep it from sliding off of the axle

Path I took up through the drain plug

So, I fed my special tool up through the drain plug and felt around for the curved underside of the axle, pushed it up and pushed in on the outer end of the axle, then with the locker engaged I was able to turn the front diff flange until the splines lined up and I was able to fully insert the axle. I should have an intact axle seal this time!

Some issues I have had in the distant past and have heard of others encountering are related to the manual hubs and improper assembly causing them to either not work or make a clattering noise when unlocked. Here's a pic of the proper assembly height.

In the locked position with all slots lined up correctly

there are only two slots where these tabs will properly insert into the other part of the hub.
Sorry I don't have more/better pictures, this is a messy job and my phone stayed in my pocket except for moments in between when I cleaned myself up for one reason or another.

I hope this info helps someone in the future.

 

So, I have never, and I mean NEVER, broken Toyota drivetrain parts before. But I did it right this time while moose hunting.
I guess that 40 year old front axle parts from a 4 cylinder pickup weren't meant to handle 37 inch tires pushed by a 3.4 liter when you get them spinning as you pop the front end up over a log.
I got quite a few years out of it after doing my SAS and gave it quite a few good workouts in that time, so I guess I got my money's worth and Toyota did themselves proud.
Passenger side is done, I'll get around to the driver's side sometime this winter.
I thought I was just going to need the Birfield joint, but the inner axle was chewed up as well. So, I ended up getting the entire Longfield Birf kit and I now have a spare, new, Longfield Birf if anyone wants to make me an offer.



[img alt="Well, that didnt go as planned
"]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yotatech.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/birfield_carnage_1_b0f66ccc84f5c162c6534a74fc3f4f8 e8b039db6.jpg[/img]
Well, that didn't go as planned