Akwheeler's 95 4runner SAS
10-01-2017, 09:52 AM
#21
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Thread Starter
It's got some flex! the rear tires are centered perfectly at full stuff, all that time with a measuring tape paid off! I can't seem to make it rub, so I may go a little bigger on the tires.
02-07-2018, 05:28 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
I recently got myself a complete donor T-100 that runs and drives, pretty good knock in the engine, but it came with another one in the bed!!! $900. Now I get to start a 3.4 rebuild and maybe next winter I'll be doing my swap.
Does anyone know if I would simplify anything by swapping engine/trans/tcase and the entire wiring harness from the T-100?
Does anyone know if I would simplify anything by swapping engine/trans/tcase and the entire wiring harness from the T-100?
02-08-2018, 08:03 AM
#24
Yeah, it'd probably be easier to swap the whole drivetrain over. Driveshaft lengths might be a bit different, but it should work.
edit: Maybe about the same, as Toyota wiring is similar throughout the years (especially the 90's).
edit: Maybe about the same, as Toyota wiring is similar throughout the years (especially the 90's).
Last edited by irab88; 02-08-2018 at 08:04 AM.
02-08-2018, 10:13 AM
#25
03-01-2018, 05:43 PM
#26
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Thread Starter
Does anyone know if 2 500 CFM electric fans are enough to keep a 3.slow from overheating in a mudhole? I'm converting over to electric fans and being winter in Alaska they work great! for now!
Last edited by akwheeler; 03-02-2018 at 10:20 AM.
03-01-2018, 06:37 PM
#27
If memory serves the flex-a-lite I had was 2500cfm With dual cases if I let bolt through driver motor mount vibrate loose it would put power steering pump shaft into fan blades thus grenading them. Trail repair was carry manual fan. Totally removed it in Texas as it had problems keeping temp down in stop and go traffic.
03-01-2018, 06:51 PM
#28
Registered User
I have two electric fans on mine and yes it puts a strain on the charging system.
Not sure what the cfm is and really don't care.
My stock radiator has sprung some leaks and I am planning on replacing with the 3 row aluminum radiator in the near future.
The truck really strains to stay cool pulling long grades in cool weather so I think I may go back with the stock set up.
I like muddpigg idea of a taurus or sable fan, I may look into that also.
Not sure what the cfm is and really don't care.
My stock radiator has sprung some leaks and I am planning on replacing with the 3 row aluminum radiator in the near future.
The truck really strains to stay cool pulling long grades in cool weather so I think I may go back with the stock set up.
I like muddpigg idea of a taurus or sable fan, I may look into that also.
03-02-2018, 12:09 PM
#29
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Thread Starter
I have checked into the Sable/Taurus fans, but they are too deep, I Have right at 4 inches to work with between the radiator and my drive pulleys ( I moved the radiator back a little to install an aux tranny cooler). This also rules out most of the high output larger single fans. So far it is working fine on the road, but this summer going slow on trails or making mud pies.....? I'll take some pictures next week when I get home, but I made an aluminum shroud with two 11 inch fans. I powered them separately each with their own fuse and relay triggered by switched power with a kill switch on my dash and a Derale thermostatic switch. I figure this way all of the high amp wiring is under the hood straight to the battery (fused of course) and if I loose either one I should still have one running. the only things in common are the thermostat, kill switch (with warning light) and ignition and that is all low current and can easily be bypassed if something fails while I'm out in the bushes.
Last edited by akwheeler; 03-02-2018 at 12:43 PM.
03-02-2018, 03:38 PM
#31
I like the idea of a push electric fan to supplement the stock mechanical/clutch one. This gentleman who's worked as engineer for Toyota for 30 years added a "push" fan (@06:52 mark). There doesn't seem to be enough room on the earlier gen's for it, though.
03-02-2018, 04:04 PM
#32
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Thread Starter
I thought of the pusher fan in the front, but I have zero room. If I end up with a hole in my A/C maybe I'll go that route. I don't want to retain the mechanical fan if I don't have to so that I can kill the fans for water crossings. I have seen a few mechanical fans that pulled into the radiator when submerged, plus they throw enough water back onto the engine to drown a duck.
Last edited by akwheeler; 03-06-2018 at 05:04 PM.
03-02-2018, 08:31 PM
#33
Anytime I forgot to shut fan off for water it burned fuse out. Also happened to other rigs I've wheeled with, be it stock or aftermarket since water is heavier to move. Seems one broke fan blades on another vehicle. Water is so much more dense than air.
03-06-2018, 12:36 PM
#34
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Thread Starter
I'm thinking it's about time to address some interior issues, it's pretty torn up, dirty and doesn't exactly smell pleasant.
Being a hunting truck and one that may end up in some deep water at some point I am thinking about just removing the carpet and having some good bedliner sprayed inside.
Anyone out there in cyberspace tried a similar approach?
I don't have an issue with price, I just want to be able to throw dead critters in the back and be able to hose out the blood later (4runner).
I also plan to re-route all of the wiring that I can to keep it all as dry as possible and not have it literally glued down with bedliner.
Being a hunting truck and one that may end up in some deep water at some point I am thinking about just removing the carpet and having some good bedliner sprayed inside.
Anyone out there in cyberspace tried a similar approach?
I don't have an issue with price, I just want to be able to throw dead critters in the back and be able to hose out the blood later (4runner).
I also plan to re-route all of the wiring that I can to keep it all as dry as possible and not have it literally glued down with bedliner.
03-06-2018, 02:28 PM
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
I've use some similar do-it-yourself bedliner stuff before on a full sized pickup bed. what I learned from that was that unless you get really anal about prepping and scuffing you'll never be happy with the outcome. The professional bedliner I got sprayed in my next pickup was way more durable and in the long run it was well worth the extra money. It still looks great 5 years later and it saved me a ton of labor. I think after gutting the interior I'll trailer it down to the pro and drop it off. I just have to touch bases first and see if they will do it and what I need to do for prep before I drop it off. Oh... yeah... and ask how much it'll cost.
03-06-2018, 04:32 PM
#37
I checked line-x years ago and price for them to spray interior was well...... Checked with a local company that does a different product, the guy who applies was less than proud or confident in their product. Diesel Brothers applied a bedliner product in season one that was BA on screen. It required an machine that mixed and heated components to spray. All the reviews of monstaliner emphasize importance of prep work.
03-06-2018, 07:26 PM
#38
Registered User
I'm thinking it's about time to address some interior issues, it's pretty torn up, dirty and doesn't exactly smell pleasant.
Being a hunting truck and one that may end up in some deep water at some point I am thinking about just removing the carpet and having some good bedliner sprayed inside.
Anyone out there in cyberspace tried a similar approach?
I don't have an issue with price, I just want to be able to throw dead critters in the back and be able to hose out the blood later (4runner).
I also plan to re-route all of the wiring that I can to keep it all as dry as possible and not have it literally glued down with bedliner.
Being a hunting truck and one that may end up in some deep water at some point I am thinking about just removing the carpet and having some good bedliner sprayed inside.
Anyone out there in cyberspace tried a similar approach?
I don't have an issue with price, I just want to be able to throw dead critters in the back and be able to hose out the blood later (4runner).
I also plan to re-route all of the wiring that I can to keep it all as dry as possible and not have it literally glued down with bedliner.
03-06-2018, 08:25 PM
#39
That's a great idea. If I had a truck that will get as often as yours that's exactly what I would do. Find a tough and rubbery bedliner (for vibration dampening), trim machine shop anti-fatigue mat to cover floor but be easily removable sound and heat (from floor above the exhaust pipe, and firewall) insulation that will facilitate hosing down. I've seen it on Land Rovers on Youtube.
