How do you like those skyjacker hydro shocks? I just ordered a set.

 

They're not too bad. They're good for the cost.

 

Ok, it's been a while since I've updated. I've run into a bit of trouble with the truck and I just wanted to see how it would play out before updating.

Up until 9/3/2013, I've always used Valvoline Max Life 10x-30 synthetic blend motor oil in the truck. A new Napa opened and they had a really good deal on cases of Napa brand full synthetic oil, which according to my brother who works at Napa, a Valvoline representative told him that all Napa motor oil is made by Valvoline. Anyways, I picked up a case of the full synthetic Napa 10w-30 and a Gold filter and changed my oil on 9/3/2013 with 195,540 miles on the clock.

Jump ahead to 3/6/2014, I changed the oil again with 201,660 on the odo. Why did I wait 6,120 miles before changing the oil? Just school, work, and not wanting to work on the truck when the temperature outside was near absolute zero. I usually change it after 4500-5000. Well, when I drained the oil, it looked like this:


So, I immediately thought "crap, head gasket". But after sitting there, scratching my head for about a couple minutes, I realized that it didn't blow white smoke, it has never overheated, and there was no loss of power. It's been running like a top. I really didn't get it. I filled the truck up again with the Napa oil and installed a Gold filter. My dad told me it could be some gasket in the intake or something that might be leaking, and maybe I should put in some Bars Leaks or something. So that's what I did:


I know it's not gonna be a permanent solution. The plan was to drive it 500 miles and then change the oil again to see if it still had anti-freeze in it. Well that didn't happen. Jump ahead to today, I changed the oil with 203,424 on the odo, 1764 more miles, again because school and work. This is what it looked like (Photobomb Level: Steering Stabilizer ):


There's very little antifreeze in it this time. My guess is that it is just the little bit that didn't drain out the time before OR it's from the short period of run time when I backed it out of the garage and then added the Bars Leaks and then ran it to get the Bars Leaks through the system.

Anyway, today I put in Napa Premium Conventional 10w-30 oil with a Gold filter. The plan is to change it again in 500 miles (let's see if it happens this time).

My guess regarding what caused this is the oil. I've read that high mileage oils, like the Valvoline Max Life, have gasket swellers in them. So when I changed back to the full synthetic, the gaskets reduced in size and started leaking. That's just one of my theories. Next time, I'll go back to the high mileage oil and see what happens.

 

That's crazy!! I know that sometimes synthetic blends have additives in them an can look like that coming out. Like the motorcraft 5w20.

 

Ahhhhh, Chocolate Souffle! Yummmmm! Wait, foil? Nevermind, I won't eat that..... Unless of course it taste like chocolate souffle! Hahaha. In all seriousness, sorry you're going through this drama! By the way, a head gasket can fill in multiple ways and doesn't necessarily have to have coolant in the oil or vice versa. But since its not overheating it doesn't sound like the other possibilities with in that realm,... And still, that is strange.

 

Don't know if it'd be helpful, but my brother tuned me into this lab service that analyzes spent oil from any vehicle. I think they run your spent oil sample through a mass spec to identify and determine amounts various metals present...and based on the knowledge of engine part materials/makeup, they/you can identify the source of the contaminants. ~$25 a test. They send you a small collection container, and you send it back in the mail.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

don't move away from MD. I'm just about to move there in less than a month!

 

Where about? You can come out my way and help me finish my 3.4 swap.

And good luck with the oil situation. I hate tracking down leaks.

 

I was told unless a motor had synthetic from the start, it really doesnt make a difference...i dunno. But i cant afford synthetic oil anyways so i run good ol castrol 10w30,and i run castrol 20w50 in my harley. never let me down. My mom has a vw passat though that specifically says 0w40 or some weird crap like that. Yes we also run oil samples on our CAT and John deere heavy equipment at work. If your worried you could send it to a lab and they could tell you specifically what you have going on in the oil.

 

wait... so how were you guys able to apply for historic plates (and insurance, I assume?) on your daily driver vehicles??

 

Shhh... ees secret.

>cough< they're not our daily driver vehicles, we only drive to MVA-approved events, such as car shows, auctions, parades, prospective buyers, and other similar activities. >cough< yeah, that's it...

 

That's right! If you live in Maryland and you have a vehicle 20 years or older and that you want to drive to MVA-approved events, such as car shows, auctions, parades, prospective buyers, and other similar activities with historic tags, click here: http://www.mva.maryland.gov/about-mv...T.htm#historic



I don't have classic car insurance. I was told I need a second vehicle that doesn't have specialty tags (historic, street rod, etc) to use as a daily driver. But I might look into it again. I have a payment coming up. $670 every six months sucks.

 

that's what I thought...and by that criteria, I'm historic too.
my daily driver's my bike. Does that count? ah, DMV fun and games. thanks for the tips

 

Like a bicycle bike? Or a motorcycle bike? It has to be something that can be registered and tagged. Although, you would think Maryland would require registration, tags and insurance on a Huffy mountain bike, just to get the revenue.

 

im assuming a motorcycle.

 

haha, no, a bicycle bike (I know how people drive. I don't want to be on a motorbike in that). And yeah, sounds like something MD would do. Maybe they'll start taxing people's shoes too.

 

A couple pages back, I talked about building a tube bumper for the pickup. Well, it's happening. I'm sick of looking at this ugly, rusty heap sitting on the back.


The initial plan was to use 4"x2", .120 wall rectangular tubing, but my dad and I just remembered that we have four 10' lengths of C-channel that have been laying in the back of our garage and forgotten about for at least a decade. So that's what I'm using. Plus it's free, which is a bonus. Free is always good.


Getting some cutting done


I cut it to 64" total length, IIRC


The channel measures to 5"x2" with a 3/16" wall. The sidewalls begin at 3/16" and taper to about 5/16".


Just had to see what it looked like before cutting more. It looks a lot wider than the truck, but that's because it's sitting about a foot away from the back. It's really about the same width of the factory bumper. Dig the orange!


I'm not cutting any corners with this bumper build...ok, except these corners


And this is what I have done so far


The three holes will be welded closed and the ends will have plates to close it up. So, I guess technically it will be a plate bumper. I originally wanted a hitch receiver on the bumper, but after thinking about it, I don't really need it. However, I do want to add a set of D-ring shackles to it.

Oh, and I put some undercoating on my new fenders today

 

All I did today was cut and weld the plates to the end, weld the holes shut, and strip the paint off.


More to come.

 

Got some more stuff done. I coated the area under the tail gate with some undercoating.



Also, i bought some D-ring shackles from Tractor Supply for $10 a piece. The cost of the two shackles is over half of the total amount I've put into the build. They have a working load limit of 6666 lbs. and a break strength of 20000 lbs. They also contain chemicals that are proven in California to cause cancer



Burned on and primed



More to come.

 

Bumper came out good! I loled at the cutting corner joke. Haha.

 

Bumper looks way better.