If you do plan on the the bumper. I'm interested on how you'll go about. Those look way much better than stock.
I'm in for that

 

Hey man. The other day you asked me about the dimensions of my rims. well after I pulled a nail out of my tire and plugged it, I took measurements of the rims. They are 15 x 8 with 3 1/2 inches of back spacing. keep up with the great build

 

The first thing I need to do is decide if I want to do a small body lift. Then I can do Solidworks drawings, then cardboard prototype, then build the real deal.

Thanks! I saw it in your build thread but before I could reply, I looked at the clock and saw I was almost late for class, so I had to go. Then I forgot about it afterward.

 

Was kind of messing around with my old driving lights today. I decided to make a brackets to hold them to the toolbox. I made one and it looked decent, but the metal was too thin and flexy for the weight of the light.

We'll call this attempt #1.


I might have to go to the machine shop at school and see what they have. Plus I could fab them up using their equipment

 

Attempt 2 was a success. Found some thicker metal laying around and made some new brackets.



That was the only pic I could get before my phone died. Right now it's all disassembled and being painted. Maybe I'll wire them up tomorrow.

 

Some more pics

Thursday, final mounting before re-wiring



Don't mind all that crap on the left. I dropped a socket and it rolled under my toolbox. When I reached under it, I got a whole handful of trash. People are so lazy...

Friday, I bought a relay, ran wires, and re-wired the lights. They work!


Just reverse lights


Both


Tailgate blocks a little, but not much



Saturday, decided to take more pics before leaving for work. Had this happen first thing in the morning. What a good start to the day.


Had low beams and Hellas on in the front



Cheap mod and very worth it

 

How do you like your skyjacker stabilzer ?

 

I like it, but if I were to buy another one, it'd be an OME.

 

Ok, it's been a while so I figured I'd update.

Nothing much going on. My dad painted the underside of my truck yesterday. The details are in this thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...thread-273079/

I took the tires off for him to spray the paint. When I went to put the tires back on, I found that my passenger inner CV boot was torn so I have a new boot on order.

I noticed that my Hella lights are a bit cloudy. I found a thread on another forum through Google yesterday saying that pouring some Windex in the housing and swishing it around and then drying it out should make them clear again, but I'm not too sure about that. If I could remember where I found that thread, I'd post a link. Anyone have any ideas? Is this common?


Speaking of Hella lights, I'm thinking about getting an HID kit for them. Not really because I'm unhappy with the light output, but because light output can always be better, right? Plus, the kits are super cheap and it gives me something to do other than school work I'm currently bidding on this kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/H3-SUPER-XENON-HID-SLIM-HID-XENON-KIT-SINGLE-BEAM-DC-12V-35W-6000K-H3-Xenon-HID-/310789073881?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item485c78ebd9&vxp=mtr&autorefresh=true
I'm also thinking about the H4 conversion. I found these Autopal Clear Euro housings on Amazon: The price seems too good to be true, especially since it comes with the bulbs. I figure I could install these and then later on I can install 55/100w bulbs and do the upgraded relay harness if I acquire the cajones I'm still not happy with the way I do wiring. Even when I take my time, it still looks messy IMO. So I figure just doing the H4 housings with standard bulbs would be enough of an upgrade for now.

EDIT: Just because the lights are listed as Euro lights, does it mean they are the Autopal E-code lights? That's my understanding from what I've read, but I might be wrong.

 

h4 seems to be a popular upgrade.4crawler eems to have a good harness upgrade but it ays theyre out of stock all the time.

 

Well I didn't win the H3 kit on ebay, but there are thousands of others on there, so I'll try again. I'm gonna change my bidding approach.

So I realize I installed my exhaust without posting videos...big no-no around here. I took some videos a couple weeks ago and only one turned out okay.


I took these two today. The first is a cold start, the second I took right after I drove home from school.



Enjoy!

 

Nice, has a louder rumble than mine .

 

So I installed the passenger side CV boot yesterday. It went a lot better than last time. I was actually able to get the axle out without unbolting any of the ball joints. From removing the first bolt to putting away the last tool, it took me two and a half hours. About 15 minutes of it was trying to figure out how to get the cone washers out of the Aisin hub without taking the tire off. I ended up taking the tire off anyway. There wasn't any way I could think of the tap around the side of the hub and tapping on the studs never seemed to work for me. All in all, it was pretty simple and there was no cussing

After that, I decided to tackle the hazy lenses in the Hella 500s. I tried swishing around some windex and blowing it out with compressed air. Didn't work. I tried distilled viegar followed by distilled water. Didn't work. I tried Greased Lightning, just because at that point I was willing to try anything. Didn't work. Lastly, I mixed Windex, Vinegar, and Greased Lightning all in one and heated it, then swished it around. Then I washed it out over 5 times with distilled water and then put it in the oven on 300 degrees for about 10 minutes to dry it out. Didn't work. I'm not really sure what to try next...

My truck didn't give me any grief during the CV boot replacement, so I decided to reward it by giving it a bath. Here's some pics

 

My blower motor quit on me this morning. Since I bought the truck, it has been working great until this morning I went to turn it on and it didn't blow on any setting. After a little searching on here, I can assume it's not the blower resistor because the motor doesn't work on any speed. I'm guessing right now that it's the blower fuse. I'll have to look through the FSM on my lunch break to see where the fuse is located. It's weird that it just stopped functioning over night.

 

I had a switch burn out on mine. just another possibility. My was charred black when I took it out to look at it. I got one from a junkyard for 5 bucks. easy peasy swap

 

I couldn't find the fuse during my lunch break. I checked the panel under the hood and the one under the dash on the drivers side. Based on that, I guess it's in the panel behind the glove box. I wasn't willing to take my whole glove box out in the middle of the parking lot at work, so I'll do it when I get home.

Bone, I did think it could be the switch, but I'll try the easiest thing first

 

Relay is 17 $ shipped from rockauto.com... get the 3-4 level one according to your switch. Got mine in 24hrs! Lol

 

Ah yes, that was my next question. Could it be the heater relay? The heater still works, it's just the fan won't blow. The only way I know this is because my windshield fogged up like crazy and then I turned it to the setting where it allows in new air instead of recirculating the air already in the cab and the window began to clear up. I put my hand over the vent as I was driving and hot air was coming in. Does this mean the heater relay is still good because it's still heating the air or am I way off?

I know very little about this and I'm trying to do as much research as possible at work

 

I think Terry or RAD4runner will be better to answer that one. However, the heater still work because the vents are open as you move the arms in the heater control assembly in the dash. You don't need a fan to have the fog ability to the front windshield. The fan works by the blower motor resistor. But, usually, you still have at least one speed or two... Mine had 3 but it was really annoying that I didn't have the lowest speed, number one. Sometimes my air conditioning gets too cold on Tue or anything higher after a while. If your phone does not work at all, then possibly the blower relay went bad? Sometimes the blower fan from self go bad... Again, Perry I believe has written something about this. I also know that for crawler has a hole tutorial on the blower motor resistor and other stuff therein.

If you completely blew the contacts of all the coils on top of the blower resistor, you'll know it when you take this thing out. It shouldn't take but a one minute to pull that thing. Just have a look at it. I also believe you can disconnect the connector to the blower motor and slept 12 volts right directly to it to see if it comes on. Isn't the connector right there in the front or the bottom, I believe on the right side of the dash ? I suppose if you could pull the blower resistor and put power directly to the proper contacts and there you could see the thing running on full speed. You wouldn't have the speed but at least you know the motor is fine. I will try that way to see which way is easier... I know you can get that resistor at the parts store as well. I'm not sure which store but I remember somebody getting one recently

 

I had a simulair issue this summer. I replaced my I heater blower.
All works good now. & yes the heater fuse is behind the glove department. Easy to acces once move