93Xtra-Cab's 1993 Pickup
#222
I got my new battery yesterday. I ended up buying the Mega-Tron II with 600 CCA instead of the Mega-Tron Plus with 800 CCA. The Mega-Tron Plus wouldn't fit in the battery tray. It's 3/4" too long.
According to the Interstate catalog, stock Toyota Trucks/4Runners with the 3.0L came with a 380 CCA battery while the 22R-E equipped vehicles came with 580 CCA batteries. That seems kind of odd...
I also ordered some blue LEDs for my dash and dome light conversion.
I've also thought about doing an H4 headlight conversion with the wiring harness upgrade. If I were to do that, I'd also convert to HIDs, but I've read that HIDs in an H4 housing sucks. To do it right, I'd have to retrofit projectors. I'm not going to do anything just yet because I want to do more research. Plus, wiring diagrams make my brain hurt...
According to the Interstate catalog, stock Toyota Trucks/4Runners with the 3.0L came with a 380 CCA battery while the 22R-E equipped vehicles came with 580 CCA batteries. That seems kind of odd...
I also ordered some blue LEDs for my dash and dome light conversion.
I've also thought about doing an H4 headlight conversion with the wiring harness upgrade. If I were to do that, I'd also convert to HIDs, but I've read that HIDs in an H4 housing sucks. To do it right, I'd have to retrofit projectors. I'm not going to do anything just yet because I want to do more research. Plus, wiring diagrams make my brain hurt...
#223
I know the 22re cca is correct. But i would watch out putting blue lights inside the cab main lights the local police may not like that too much... as far as the H.I.D. make sure you use your existing low beam light as the "trigger " on a relay.. also H.I.D."s dont have a high and low beam just a single beam... just something to think about
#224
I should have listened to jskijoe. It was the starter. The battery helped, but only a little bit. When I went to start the truck the past couple days, it clicked over 20 times before it actually turned over. So last night I bought a new starter and put it in.
If anyone with the 3VZE is reading this right now, you better hope that your starter never has to be replaced. If you do need to replace your starter, prepare to cuss...a lot! FYI, the FSM is incorrect. It shows both starter bolt are fastened from the rear, but the bottom bolt is actually fastened from the front. I had use 3 socket extensions with a swivel just to reach the bottom starter bolt. You cannot remove the starter from between the frame and fender, unless you want to remove the motor mount or unless you have a body lift. The easiest way I found is the ease it down and forward, out by the tie rods. You have to unbolt the steering stabilizer, slave cylinder, and remove the two small ADD vacuum lines (if you have ADD) to get it all the way out. I would have taken pics, but I was too focused on getting it finished. Pics always make things easier to explain.
If anyone with the 3VZE is reading this right now, you better hope that your starter never has to be replaced. If you do need to replace your starter, prepare to cuss...a lot! FYI, the FSM is incorrect. It shows both starter bolt are fastened from the rear, but the bottom bolt is actually fastened from the front. I had use 3 socket extensions with a swivel just to reach the bottom starter bolt. You cannot remove the starter from between the frame and fender, unless you want to remove the motor mount or unless you have a body lift. The easiest way I found is the ease it down and forward, out by the tie rods. You have to unbolt the steering stabilizer, slave cylinder, and remove the two small ADD vacuum lines (if you have ADD) to get it all the way out. I would have taken pics, but I was too focused on getting it finished. Pics always make things easier to explain.
Last edited by 93Xtra-Cab; Jan 8, 2013 at 07:20 AM.
#225
Oh yeah, I also got some of my LEDs. I got my #74 bulbs and my dome light. I didn't install the 74s since I'm waiting for my 194s, but I did put in the dome light.

It came with these adapters that I didn't need

The one I did use was the festoon adapter that adjusted to most sizes

Before

After. It had some 3M adhesive on the backside so I just stick it across the opening.

Before

After

Pretty good for $0.99. I found one for $4.99 that had 48 LEDs on it instead of 12. I'm still not sure why I didn't get that one. Anyway, that's all for now.

It came with these adapters that I didn't need

The one I did use was the festoon adapter that adjusted to most sizes

Before

After. It had some 3M adhesive on the backside so I just stick it across the opening.

Before

After

Pretty good for $0.99. I found one for $4.99 that had 48 LEDs on it instead of 12. I'm still not sure why I didn't get that one. Anyway, that's all for now.
#229

As for the starter...I hope I never have to do that again. I didn't replace the contacts, I just got a whole new one. Swearing, throwing tools...just part of the fun
Last edited by 93Xtra-Cab; Jan 10, 2013 at 07:21 AM.
#233
^But then you can't carry a passenger.
I'm also going to change the bulbs in the map light/coutesy light/whatever you call it, just like you did. I have the SR5 model so mine has 2 bulbs, however I'm not sure if they're festoon bulbs or not.
I'm also going to change the bulbs in the map light/coutesy light/whatever you call it, just like you did. I have the SR5 model so mine has 2 bulbs, however I'm not sure if they're festoon bulbs or not.
#237
Just a thought about your visor. You dont like the idea of drilling your roof full of holes, and I dont blame you. But I found 3M Panel bond. Its good for "non-structural" panels. Youd have to sand to bare metal, but not drill holes in your truck. It sounds like its pretty tough and strong, I looked on youtube for videos and liked what I seen. Just some input. Take it for what its worth, nice truck!


