I put the Warn hubs on and I think you'll be glad you scored on the Aisin ones- the cut-out on the Warn hubs is really shallow and it can be a pain in the butt to turn them, especially when its cold and wearing gloves.

 

If i didn't buy local i would have gotten the warns. I needed the cone washers and spindle nuts to so i couldn't resist a compete package. The nuts and come washers would have cost me another 65 on top of the hubs.

i got my new rotors installed on the hub and bearing races in and the rear bearingand seal. But I'm waiting on my 54mm socket to come in to install on the truck.

 

I had a truck with Warn hubs and for every day driving I thought they were ok. For the purist or maybe harder use I can see why people like Aisins. I too prefer Aisins but would not be turned off of Warns if that is what the truck came with. Great score on the Aisins. Lube the cone washers real good before installing them. It will make the next disassembly so much easier.

 

So i went to install my front knuckles and hubs and found that the guy i bought the hubs from gave me 4 locking washers instead of two locking washers and 2 thrust washers. Arggggg

26 dollars later i have the correct parts on order, oem toyota. I ordered the lock washers and the flat washers.

on a side note, i could not get a 54mm socket anywhere locally. I was going to order one but decided i had the material to make one.

i took some scrap 1/4 flat stock, the old 54mm nuts from my auto hubs, and an old 32mm socket.

i cut pieces and welded them to the nuts to create the shape then ground the threads out of the nuts for clearance and then welded the 32mm to the back.




we will see how it works another day i guess

 

One of these days I am going to get a 3/8th drive 54mm socket, but for the mean time, I got my 54mm socket from Sears. It is a 3/4 in drive. That has been the only place I have been able to find a 54 socket without getting one online somewhere.

 

Tractor supply has them here but both locations were sold out. I was planning on finishing the bearings and brakes yesterday so i made my own. Then finding the wrong washers with my hubs destroyed everything.

i might just work on the passenger fender a bit today since i got the welder out. I have a bulge in the patch i made that i just don't like

 

Good to here the 4runner is back up and running! I made my own 54 mm socket too, yours looks alot better tho, lol. I need to get me some Aisin hubs someday as well.

 

Yesterday i prepped my hood for filler and primer. I had two creases in it that are minor but will require filler. The stripes were gone and had actually had surface rust in their place so i took that portion to bare metal.

i forgot to take a pic.

when it got dark i worked on the hubs and brakes.

the slide pins were super stuck, i almost had to cut them out. I worked them around with some pb blaster until i got them far enough out to clamp my drill on them and spin them out.



i cleaned the pins up and lubed them prior to reinstalling.

the passenger side had one stuck caliper piston that i worked back and forth until free, i had below spec rotors and worn pads, so i attribute it to getting over extended.




and fixed my antenna, thanks Terry. 14mm head size coarse thread bolt cut off fit perfectly

 

Great to see the bolt worked for you. I have fixed several trucks that way and it has not failed yet.

 

So body work was going slow hand sanding everything. And my da sander pulled to much cfm for my little 21g compressor.

upgrade time! I ran a 220v 30a circuit to the garage and bam 60gal 11.5 cfm at 90 psi.



i did put a plug and outlet on it so i can use a 220 welder or hook up a dryer for testing etc.

 

Nice set up there. That should run your air tools with out breaking a sweat. I only have a 26 gallon but I rigged up another air tank for reserve and added a dryer.

 

I can run my da now without a hitch. I ran it for about 15 minutes ands the gauge fell to 80 psi. That is way better than my 5 min on, 5 off with my other compressor.




started the body filler on the passenger side. That's the second and last wipe of fiber filler, then comes the evercoat. Can't wait, evercoat is so much easier to sand than that fiber stuff

 

Oh so close.
Circle dents as you find them. Doing so ensures you remember where they are. Different light will hide/show dents

 

Maybe I'll get the truck in primer today, i worked my ass off last night and fixed all the dents. Only have the hood and roof left.

 

Great work. It brings back happy (not) memories.

 

Well, no primer. The epoxy primer must be used above 50 degrees and it never reached that in the garage yesterday. I ended up taking all the trim off the truck so i won't have any tape lines. I also got the door panels off and took the door handles and lock cylinders out.

i decided to take the truck out of the garage and it was stupid hard to start, after warming up it started leaking from the radiator and overheated. I think the thermostat stuck and i should have changed the radiator earlier.

 

Circling dents does help as once you get the paint off and it is in primer they will disappear. First coat of paint and they will show up quick.

 

Just remembered why I've been avoiding build threads. I need body work badly and I am trying to ignore it! You sir are not helping.

Looking really great keep it up!

 

Thanks co!

i found my cold start issue i believe. My cold start thermo switch for the cold start injector is reading 50ohms cold, that is beyond spec. That booger is expensive at 150 bucks.

i called up 22re performance and ordered a slew of stuff.

vacuum hoses, dizzy cap and rotor, thermo switch, oil dip stick, shifter bushings, oem thermostat.

now to find a radiator. I've been tossing back and forth getting an expensive csf or rocking an auto parts house plastic tank, lifetime warranty radiator.

my truck has the 16 3/4 radiator in it which i believe is a 3 row vs the 15 3/4.

 

Went ahead and ordered the csf 3 row radiator. I don't want to do it again.