Alright, here are my findings : with the IACV connected no difference, no matter what place the wires were in the connector. So I began to troubleshoot elsewhere : checked power coming into the COR (12.84 volts), checked all other wires coming out of the COR with key on....nothing. Does this mean that my COR is bad??? not that I'd doubt it, my truck did have the problem with hard to start when warm...which by what ive read means my COR is going bad. I wonder if those two wires shorted out burnt up a contact in the COR....who knows. IM gonna go looking for a COR now...

 

I wonder if I jump around the COR and put power from the wire that supplies power to the COR to either the white w/ black stripe wire or the blue wire....that could condemn the COR for sure ya??

 

Used a jumper and went from COR power supply port to the blue wire and voila!!! fuel pump turned on. Must have been a bad COR. Gonna get one on the way as soon as I can find one...heard you can only get those from toyota though??? is that correct??

 

"hard start when warm....." Does not always, by any means, 'mean' the COR is most likely the culprit... I know you know that, just giving you some outside 'cents', lol. NOW YOU HAVE 1 CENT, ...lemme fish for 2, hahaha. Ok, sorry, lol.

The coolant temp sensor can cause all kinda issues when it's trying to restart warm, .... as can a 'hot soak' condition(more rare than either)... But yes, in MY CASE, the COR was bad as I pulled into 'Kragen'(now O'Right'ly) lol.... Walked in, they dug in the back, back, backkkkkkkk of the store.... VOILA, they had it. You CAN find that at other stores, not sure who told you that. I paid 46$ for it AT KRAGEN! lol. I imagine it's about 60$ or so at Toyota? Ask em, can't hurt, right? I'd rather have OEM now that I know, ...but hey, it's worked for 7 years, just fine, starts on a dime every time!

Far as "Jumping" the COR, all that... not sure if you've damaged it or not. I just don't have that tidbit off the top of my head, memorized. Roger/4crawler would know, however. Might try sending him an email?

 

Just checking in, first I would really caution against throwing 12 volts through anything as a test, second I don't recall you answering if the AFM is hooked up. Other than the ECU the AFM controls a ton of efi stuff including initial prime run of the fuel pump. The IACV not being hooked up will not cause a no start issue I know becouse mine is not hooked up. I would really slow down go through at least the Haines no start check list, and test components with out the jumper wire, You can light a 12 volt bulb with 24 volts but it ain't gonna last long. Trust me I know You want it running, but you will get there faster if You do things in order.

 

I think I may not have explained it correctly, and I may need a video to full explain what im trying to say, but here is another shot : Problem is that im not getting power to my fuel pump right? We have determined that the wires which are now connected to my IACV, when powered up, turn the fuel pump on, but how do we get power there without connecting jumper wires from the battery (that would be a huge pain in the butt to do everytime you wanted to start the thing). I checked 4crawlers page out for troubleshooting on this topic. I did the little fuel pump bypass thing and nothing changes, I still get a click on the COR when turning the key but my fuel pump is not being energized. So I turned to my COR (as im obviously getting power there....hell, it clicks right?). I removed my COR and found a wire that (large black one) that supplies power to the COR with key in the start position. That wire makes the COR click and should (in my mind) send power through the relay and out to another wire (which I would assume would be my fuel pump power wire, would it not??). Problem is that there is no power coming out of the relay when it clicks, only power going in. Now, I brought the relay with me to work today, we have a really really good electrical guy here and I want him to explain to me exactly how a relay is supposed to work cuz i feel like im missing a constant power (even with key off, or at least in the "on" position). When I "jumped" the COR, I didnt actually jump it, I had pulled the COR out and took power from the large black wire that supplied power with key in "start" position to the blue wire that powers my fuel pump and bam, it worked. This indicates to me that the COR is not making contact internally. NOW, like i said, im going to double check this (as I dont want to piss $60 down the drain on a new COR) and make sure my way of thinking is correct.

P.S. >>> I did email 4crawler about my situation, and he told me to basically go through the troubleshooting steps and look at a wiring diagram. So im doing just that...and trying to understand this YOTA electrical system. like I said, Ive gone through his troubleshooting steps for a fuel pump and have gotten to the part where you need to start isolating the system and figure out where your power is going and why...so thats what im trying to do here...just figure where my power is lost.

 

yes, the AFM is hooked up. was never "unhooked" (if by that you mean the harness/connector going to it), I did have the air piping from the AFM/Air box to the t-body removed (of course), but have it reconnected as I know it wont start without it. And yes, the checklist thing is being done, thats why im where I am...I dont have a HAYNES manual, but I am using a toyota FSM...surely I have the better of the two...not knocking HAYNES as I have used those guys a number of times, but im partial to Factory manuals as I feel they are more detailed. I have also been following 4crawlers fuel pump troubleshooting guide...which is leading me to check for where my power is lost. Hopefully find some more today...

 

UPDATE : Here is the circuit im looking at



After talking with the electrical guy here at work, found this : the wire previously mentioned that is shooting power to my COR with the key in the "start" position is working correctly from the ecu. The problem is that the wire providing constant power to the COR with key in the "run" position is not providing power. I have a sneaky suspicion that the 15a fuse in the fuse box on the drivers side kick panel may have blown again (hoping this is what I find). I do not have any labels depicting what fuse is for what, so I just checked them all the other day and found 2 that had blown so I replaced (both 15a). I am willing to bet money that because of those two wires that were touching (which i didnt find until after I replaced the fuses, which also have proven to supply power to the fuel pump), they blew that fuse again and is now causing my lack of constant power to the COR with key on which is preventing my fuel pump from kicking in. I will confirm all this this evening...if its not that fuse, then it may be my efi relay...which I have not located yet, but im gonna stick with the fuse for now and see where it leads me.

Can anybody confirm that the efi fuse is in that box in the drivers side kick panel?? like i said, i dont have a diagram, searched through here and google and didnt come up with anything...

 

Hello boosted.. Whish I could help, but electric isnt a strong point of mine. Maybe this will help. I been following your thread. I would love to have a black 1st gen.

You gave me the idea to post in my thread for fuse location, seems like I ran into this one time.

Mine is an 88, but dont think it matters. Also it is on the drivers kick panel, this orginally covered the fuses.

 

HA!!!! DUDE!!!! that was one of the fuses that had popped!!!! that and the dome light fuse were blown!!!! THANK YOU SOOO MUCH!!! I bet money that my efi fuse is blown again too. 1.5 more hours till lunch time and im gonna go check it out and see whats up. Thanks a ton man.

P.S. > if you want, mines for sale , just a hop skip and a jump to abilene tx

 

You are welcome. I really cant help on this problem you are dealing with. Hope I dont have to.

I would love to have it, along with 50 other cars, but here in the real world, I can only dream. Nice looking truck though.

I will try and catch up on your thread, but you are doing great job.

 

I hear ya man, im in the same boat...i wouldnt get rid of it ever if i didnt have to...but i got me a kiddo on the way and need something more family friendly...thinking about getting a land rover....i might get family friendly, but its darn sure gonna be off road friendly too Id get a newer 4runner, but I can get a later model year and a lot more options with a rover for the same price. This will not be the last yota I own though. I have fallen in love with their simplicity and options for improvement.

And ya know, funny thing is (which probably didnt help the problem at all...) I had my off road lights tied into that same fuse...really glad to have that fuse diagram...thanks a ton. Diagrams are worth their weight in gold as far as I am concerned...I learn better with pictures than anything else...if that makes me primitive...then so be it...but its how i learn...

 

SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!! Went home at lunch today, those that connector fixed and fuse replaced (again), fuel pump now runs with the key. Just gotta get all my injectors and what not put all back together. Should have it running tonight. Will update later this evening with pics and video.

 

That's what I like to hear! Glad it's coming together.

YEP< that's why I was asking, "did you touch them with the key on?" .... The 15A should always blow before ANY damage is done... but sometimes, we're not so lucky, eh? lol. In this case.... THANK GOODNESS, you don't need a new COR. HOWEVER, ..might I suggest something? VERY common for these rigs to leak in the window area or through the harness hub in the firewall.... and then that water seems to drip RIGHT ON the COR.... did in mine and many other Owners rigs... So, just pull the COR, pop the cover off, and look INSIDE! Mine looked perfect from outside... but inside was a plethora of corrosion and DESPAIR!!!! ok,.... I'm exaggerating! ... but you get the point? hahahaha.

G'day, m8! KILL IT! Video to follow, ..............RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRIIIIIIIGHT? LOL.

 

Wasn't trien to be a smart arse or anything man, trien to keep up with you guys while I'm on the road gets frustrating for me sometimes, miss read a few things and missed a few posts all together. Glad to hear your getting it ran down sounds like your getting close, good luck

 

Ha, Jason, cheel man, we cool. I take all criticism/advise/whatever appreciatively. After all...it was "back to basics" that fixed my truck...lol...i just had to go through the basics twice....

ANYWAYS,

here it is, running, like a champ.

 

sorry for the craptastic video quality...might take another one....wasnt sure how to upload it to youtube and then to here...

 

Dude, that is FANTASTIC! My pleasure by the way..... People helped me, stuck with me, .... now I'm able to pay it forward(sometimes! hahaha). GREAT to HEAR it running! Thanks for doing a video... Just a tip... HOLD THE CAMERA HORIZONTAL, 100% OF THE TIME! hahaha. Truck looks great, too! Sick tires, man! Those tires 33x10.50's???? (IF THEY'RE GONE IN THE MORN..... DON'T ASKI ME, ....NO WAY I could make it there by tonight! hahaha).

BTW,.... yep, JASON OF TN IS DA MAN! That dude has been a righteous friend, .....GRATEFUL to have met him and get to know him!

Now don't burn it up, Boosted!!!! lol. Chill on the 5G RPM sessions there! lol.

 

Glad to hear you got the fuel pump going. I imagine once you get it back togeher it will run. The fix isnt hard, its findin the problem.

I can understand having kids. Thats what I have on 01 Runner for. We looked at Land Cruisers and Land Rovers. I liked them all. Not to be bashing domestic models, but seemed like once I got 150-180,000 miles on them, I was getting rid of them. One I paid off 2 years early and had every intention of driving the wheels off of it. A month later, it broke down on the highway with the wife and kids while I was overseas and that is when I went to Toyota. If I was in the market for a newer/new car or truck, I would look at Honda and Nissan too. My dad bought and 85 1/2 Nissan pickup and has 385,000 miles on orginal tranny and motor.

From my 01 4Runner experience, and I bought it in 03, a year and a half old with 30,000 miles. Just follow the recommended maintenace and when possible use Toyota parts, dont fill the gas tank all the way to the door ( floods charcoal canister). I wasnt wanting to go that new at the time, but trying to find a low mileage Toyota is hard to do around here