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86’ 4Runner Build and Help

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Old 08-22-2018, 06:28 AM
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86’ 4Runner Build and Help


Well, I’ve been reading in this Fourm for awhile now and figured it was finally time to sign up since I’m having problems , I’ve had this 4 Runner for a while now , I drive it every single day , she has 295,000 miles everything is original on it , the wake tower speakers are a great cheap cool factor & everyone notices , I’ve replaced the entire front end , bed lined the inside (I do not recommend that if you live in the Mississippi delta like me , the mud loves to stick to it and it’s a pain to clean out , I did have a cluster give out on me but I have a parts truck that is almost complete . I get 20mpg on average, and absolutely love this thing! I’m currently working on the Rear diff and having problems getting it sealed correctly , i replaced it yesterday at 3pm and when I drove it this morning and got to work I smelled gear oil and low and behold it was coming out the the differential gasket , no auto parts store within 50miles of me has another gasket. so I’ll be using nothing but gasket maker this afternoon when I pull it apart , the seal on the shaft wasn’t even there when I pulled it all apart so it’s been open before I’m guessing . If you have any suggestions I’m all open to them as I’m completely lost trying to figure out how or why it blew . I’ll post more pictures after work.
Old 08-22-2018, 07:22 AM
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I'm guessing you put a new pinion seal in there. It's often recommended that you use gasket maker only for sealing the differential up to the axle housing. I like Permatex Ultra Gray. Clean up both surfaces good and it seals up great. Make sure the axle housing breather isn't plugged. It's the little valve looking thing on top of the axle housing just off center. It can be unscrewed and checked/cleaned.
Old 08-22-2018, 10:27 AM
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Everyone that’s done this before is pretty certain that my breather is clogged , I’ll start working on it here shortly. And my question is should I stand down both the housing and chunck sides ? Of course using really find sand paper .
Old 08-22-2018, 10:59 AM
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I wouldn't think sanding the differential housing or the axle housing is necessary. Gasket sealer is pretty forgiving for uneven surfaces. What it doesn't like is oil, loose rust, or old gasket material. If the old gasket is super baked on there you might use a Roloc disk to get it off quick. Only problem with this is it throws dust everywhere.
Old 08-22-2018, 04:17 PM
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I'm with arlindsay on this one. I've had my rear diff out several times and only ever used permatex rtv, never had a leak yet. I scrape the surface and clean with brake cleaner to degrease and then apply to both surfaces.
Old 08-22-2018, 07:34 PM
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Well we hit it with some fine sand paper to get the 32 year old gasket off it was the original one on there without a doubt . After 6 hours of everything tonight we finally got it back together and the Mopar gasket maker is holding perfect , unfortunately the pinion seal i replaced is leaking now , it’s not bad enough for me to put it out of commission (it’s my daily driver and I refuse to allow it to fail me even once ) so tomorrow I hope that my local orileys has another national brand seal as their name brand one isn’t snug against that shaft . I’m also worrying about the pinion but , I’m not sure what the torque spec is . I can’t find that anywhere , and when we put the new seal in I didn’t even see an old seal whatsoever . , unfortunately I didn’t get any pictures tonight I was rushing to get everything put back together because between work and this Toyota and hunting season coming I’ve been swamped .
Old 08-23-2018, 02:20 AM
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There is no torque spec really. Check out GearInstalls.com for a lot of high quality write ups on Toyota differential setup. The pinion nut is as tight as necessary to crush the crush sleeve and achieve the proper pinion bearing preload. Unless you're replacing the crush sleeve, your final torque is going to be very low. Basically tighten it until there is a slight drag when you spin the pinion flange similar to setting up a trailer bearing preload then stake the nut so it doesn't back off. Loctite isn't usually needed but since you're not going to be getting the pinion nut very tight it might be a good idea.

The other option is that you actually replace the crush sleeve. It can be done, technically, without removing the differential from the truck. The problem is it's going to be really hard to tighten the pinion nut in the space you'll have under the truck. Crushing the crush sleeve usually takes me a breaker bar with a 3.5 foot pipe extension and lot of effort.
Old 08-23-2018, 05:32 PM
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Well here’s the update on my diff , got it all back together the truck runs and drives fine , no noise & is t leaking around the new gasket , come to find out after looking at that web page about the gears ; I left the old pinion seal on and put the new one on there so I’m running two pinion seals . It’s leaking where the pinion seal is so I ordered a new pinion seal and also a pinion nut from trailgear.com . I’m driving the truck because it isn’t leaking too bad at all .
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