corax, you sir have me hunting for a sr5 cluster now :-(

will a supra cluster fit? or celica?

 

no and no haha, but you can get an SR5 cluster pretty easily, and for a reasonable price.

and if you get a V6 cluster, you won't even have to calibrate it!

 

Yeah I have an SR5 cluster, I might try to recalibrate the tach but I've heard it's easier to just buy the v6 tach. Does anyone know whether the B+ add or Component power wires are supposed to be thick gauge on the truck side?

I do have a check engine light on my cluster as well. According to haynes it's supposed to be a black wire as well.

 

Well, I made some progress on my wiring today, the starter signal wire is black on the engine (22re) side of the harness and then turns to black/white on the car side.

I found another connector sitting in the kick panel area, it's one of the connectors that went to the 22re ecu, there were 3 and only 2 came out with the engine harness. After looking at the wire colors it looks like I can get engine light, speed sensor, and tach from here. Can anyone who has done this swap confirm this?

Also, I am having trouble finding B+ and component power on the truck side, putting a multimeter on it didn't reveal anything. Can anyone help me out.

Here's a pic of my progress if anyone is interested.

 

i think your b+ is in that third connector that was in the ecu, but the the engine harness

 

Thanks, I'll look at it tonight, it should have power all the time except when the EFI relay is pulled, right? Where is that relay? fuse box?

 

no, should only have power when key on, or key start.

it will not have power in acc.


note: when key on, your coil's will be on, and heating up. so dont leave the key on to long.

 

Awesome, thanks man.

 

my fan doesn't fit.....

 

behind the radiator? It looked like it would be a tight fit. I'm just going to run a pusher.

 

well every thing is soooo close, i had to clip a couple of thing's off the fan.


well if i hit any thing to hard with the front to hard , well the best way to describe it, is hittin the fan. in my case, the water pump and rad.....

 

well thats the other problem, is in front of the rad there isn't alot of room either, will have to do alot of cutting to fit a pusher fan.

 

i couldn't get it to fit into the spot i wanted untill i started to clip off the plastic gaurde to keep hands out of the fan.




the pictures above, shows only 1 cut, in the end i decided to cut all three to help clearence it the best, and allow to change belts with out pulling the rad and fan out.


i haven't secured the fan to the rad yet, and i might run into the issue of not being able to remove the unit once together....








this next picture shows how i cut the upper rad to help water flow and to help keep the upper hose form collapseing, i still wish to put a sping into the upper hose.

 

remember that the engine is also going to move front-back a bit while driving -- I did the same thing with the fan when I first got it together
(puller fan) and found the crank pulley kept bumping the fan even with the rear guard cut up. Later I ended up cutting the front body cross member just a bit, drew a line and cut 1/2 way through all the spot welds - got me an extra 1/2" - 3/4" in front for a pusher fan.

BTW, I'm looking to swap out my 19"hx22"w Griffin for this 19"hx24"w AFCO Dual Pass from SpeedWay Motors for $235 -- it gets rid of the upper radiator hose / alternator pulley clearance problem (just flip the T-Stat housing 180*), I need to call to confirm but it should be 2.25" thick

 

thanks corax,

i'll keep a good eye on those close area's as it get's started up.

i'll probally box in the stock motor mounts so their solide, to help keep the engine where i want it.

 

If you're interested . . .
Rockstomper sells these solid motor mounts

and Marlin Crawler has these HD Transfer case mounts

 

Well I was a dumbass earlier when I said the stock 22re radiator wouldn't fit around the crank pulley. I had the crank pulley on wrong, so it wouldn't go on the pulley all of the way. It fits fine with about half an inch to spare, I might even try to fit a v6 radiator in there.

However, without a body lift the radiator outlet comes right next to the thermostat housing. Not sure what I'm going to do about this. Here are a few pics.

 

what about your lower rad hose?
that looks worse then the upper...








aslo, if any one is interested, i have a good lsd from a mk3 turbo 109k on it.

i know it'll work in the rear end's of most trucks, i think it would work for the front of straight axles...

 

i did the wiring for my fal fan still haven't mounted it, just soldered all my wire's and connections, and made to length. just need to mount every thing when i have some time.

the last week i have felt like crap with a stupid cold...

 

Lower radiator hose is fine, its just the angle in that pic. Anyone know how thick the v6 radiator is compared to the 2cyl one?

I hope you start feeling better man.