A few more pictures of what I've got

 

Also, does anyone know what these hoses are for? They are hooked to the heater core lines but run to the back of the truck. Any problems if I remove them?

 

those rear lines probaly went to a rear heater core for rear control heat, or to better heat the high end luxury packages. you sure they dont go any where?

i bet if your truck has a/c you may have some a/c lines running to the back of the truck aswell. my suburban is like this, good thing to, it's like a burban ice box.


i'll do some re-search and see if i can identify any of those plugs.

 

That's what I'm guessing on those lines as well. I might have to remove them because There isn't a wholt loe of space around the intake manifold for heater lines. If you can find any info on the pre-90 ih1 and ih2 connectors please let me know, I'm having a tough time finding anything

 

can you take a picture of how those lines run up the fire wall?

 

It was pretty tough to take a pic, they dont really run up the firewall right now because I have all of the heater lones pulled out, but here is what I've got.

 

ok guys well. after some consideration.









i decided the ecu box was a stupid idea and was going to take to long for my impatient arse.



fyi dont put to much greese into the hubs or they may not disengage correctly

 

Lol That's good. I figured it would go that route but I was waiting to see the lunchbox ecu results. lol j/k. looks like it's ready to crank already.

 

sounds like a much better idea honestly... Glad you went that route

 

i've already had it cranking for a bit now, i just need to get the fuel tank droped so i can install the fuel pump and fuel line set up i have.

i have a bolt that has broken it's factory nut from the weld. so it just spins.. i have to weld it again so i can finish lowering the tank either that or cut it off.,






ya know, i am glade i did too.

 

If you really want, you could put the ECU in the glovebox (like 4Crawler did) to lift it up off the floor a bit -or- it will fit in the stock location, just mix and match ECU mount brackets and trim off the extra wire on your connectors

4Crawler's glovebox mounting

it will fit in the stock location

 

Good luck on the fuel tank, I had to pull mine and all of the bolts were rusty. Ended up breaking 2 of them off.

 

Man I've been watching this build for a while now and I need to tell you two things.

1) It makes a lot of us happy that you're saving a yota truck from death.

2) If I had your skills I'd have a side business fabbing up stuff for rock crawlers just for beer money.


Keep up the great work!!!

edit: Oh and I forgot to mention that you need to start collecting 82 Supra MAF's (AFM/VMAF/MAF/what-the-hell-ever-they-are-called) and start selling them to those of us with 22re's. The part number is 22250-43110 I think, and I need one.

 

only have 1 bolt giving my problems i'll get to that in about 30 minutes.


but i was out figuring out where i needed to route my new hydrualic hose, and i realized this truck has been totaled before, and fixed. well sorta..






second batterie now.




driver side , not where the hose's will come through. i need to drill holes at a wider location.



Notice the spot welds.....

 

i have an afm from a 5m, p/n 22250-43150

haha i have done alot of side job's saving old supra's from sure death.

 

I believe I've found IH1 and IH2, Pictures of IH1 are attached. Notice they are yellow, and not gray like the later trucks.

Here is the wiring info for IH1 according to supracharged:

B+ Power: should be white/red: I don't have white red on mine should this be one of the thicker gauge wires, anyone know what color?

Component Power: black/red: Don't ave this guy either, should this be a ther gauge wire? Anyone know what color?

Starter: Should be a large gauge black/white wire: looks like I'm good here, I've got that one

Speed sensor: should be green/blue: don't have this guy either

 

Here is the info from supracharged on IH2 (Pics attached):

Oil pressure: should be yellow/light blue: don’t have this but I have yellow black, this should be it, correct?
Water temperature: should be yellow green: good here I have that

Engine light: should be violet or dark blue, don’t have this but I have blue/black, that it?,I also have purple on IH1, that it?

What about the tach?

Does the ground for the cluster need to be spliced across here?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

yellow black is oil pressure, yellow green should be gauge water temp.


look on your cluster to see if you have a check engine light. im not sure if carb modle's had this feature.
if you dont, you can wire up a 12v light to the wire and use the ecu as a ground. IIRC.

i'll double check the ewd for the supra.

 

yes i was right about the light bulb.

veiw this link to a 7mge simple ewd;
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...l.aspx?S=D&P=5

in the middle of the page on the right you'll see the check engine light, "from gauge fuse" other word's it's powered by the same fuse that all your gauge's are powered from.


does your truck have a tach in it?

if so you may need a tach adaptor, or just run an aftermarket tach.



Also, you have two choice on the starter wire, you can splice it to work on the 7mge engine harness or just extend the stock wire to reach the other side of the engine bay. (thats what i did.)

 

I used a 4cyl SR5 cluster (w/ tach) and had no problems - just need to "recalibrate" the tach - take the cluster apart and look for the tiny screw on the backside of the gauge itself (inside the cluster shell) - this is what you will turn to calibrate the tach. I hooked up a tach and drove around, tweaking the screw as i went, until the tach was accurate - check it at idle, mid rpm and wide open.