Another "service" upgrade was to replace crappy plastic "spray everywhere" radiator drain petcock.

Fumoto did not make a size valve for the radiator, so Chris sourced a banjo bolt and bell. Not shown is the AN cap for this fitting. Draining radiator will be less messy now.

 

Starter was cleaned and contacts were replaced. The old ones worn.

Just the contacts and plunger replaced. The started was not completely rebuilt. Replacement contacts are cheap. Worn contacts are a frequent cause of start problems.

 

Long extensions and swivel used to start bolts from bell housing to block. Here, Chris shows our method of final tightening top two bel housing bolts. Swivel head ratchet and strap.

Chris gets those pesky top two bolts tightened.

 

Going to backtrack a bit and post some pics on the electrical work done on the harness.

 

32 years of rock hard and broken boots. Could not source Toyota boots. I found suitable replacements from Prowireusa.com.

Carefully unwrapped some of the old, deteriorated wrapping.

Another broken boot.

Cheap "de-pinning" tools via Amazon. About 5 bucks.

Of all the de-pinners, the 1.5mm did the trick. It was a learning process. Go gently. Push in, slight gentle twist, push-pull wire.

De-pinned! Take lots of pictures and reassemble correctly or your injectors won't work.

 

Main injector connectors type C center lug. White. All my connectors were de-pinned and cleaned in ultrasonic tank.

Cold start injector type C center lug. Black.

Cold start timer sensor type C center lug. Brown

Standard makes the correct type C center lug plastic connector if you have broken plastic. Available only in white.

Green ECU connector has an offset lug. I could not find the Standard replacement for this connector.

 

De-pinning ECU temp sensor connector.

New 90 degree boot on VSV.

Carefully cutting off old hard boot.

I used 90 degree boots on ECU and Cold Start Timer sensors. Also used a 90 on cold start injector.

I used straight boot on injectors 2,3,4

A 90 boot worked better on injector 1.

 

Single wire from sensor (idle up?) on top of thermostat housing nearly broken.

De-pinned and plug removed.

New 90 deg boot and shrink insulation placed on wire. Wire resoldered.

Shrink insulation.

Re-pinned in plastic connector and replugged.

Boot installed.

 

Nice wiring work, very clean looking.

 

Very nice build. Really like the way the valve cover and throttle body turned out. May have to do the same when I finally get around to building my 22re.

 

Thank you. Powder coating was beyond budget. Paint shop at NAPA was a great help in selecting paints that would resist oil and grease. Custom mixing colors is very cheap (about 20 bucks for a custom color enamel in a spray can). We used a self-etching filling primer. Prep included degreasing in solvent tank and media blasting exterior surfaces only. Internal areas taped off. The parts I painted were the valve cover, throttle body and IAC housing, upper and lower intakes and the exhaust manifold shield. Prep work may also be accomplished by jet washing at engine rebuild shop, but I had a parts cleaner and Chris had access to a blasting cabinet.

Good luck on your build!

-H

 

After 14 months, Chris and I got the Silver Pig running. Having trouble uploading a video, but it runs great and thankful there were no problems.

-H

 

Looking forward to the video!

 

I'm looking for white connectors and can only find black. Where did you get your white S697 connectors?

 

Here are two similar connectors where one is notched L and the other notched R. These have a different back end design, but might work without any modification. They're available on ebay.


Above - Coolant Temp Sensor & Idle AAC IACV Plug Connector for Nissan 300ZX




Above - Fast idle / Air Regulator connector for Nissan 300zx

 

White was not available, but black center lug plastic connectors are exactly the same. My white ones were undamaged originals that I cleaned in ultrasonic tank.

Herky

 

Yes. I have seen those but did not try them. I think you can make them work. My goal was to use original pin connectors and no splicing if possible.

Herky

 

Okay...followup on the IAC. Car starts and runs great. Cold start no problems and idles right at 875 rpm, but no slight high idle on initial start then idle down. Thinking my IAC adjustment a bit off. No Hot start or hot soak start problems. Fires up immediately. Does anyone think there are any issues without the cold start idle up? Engine starts easy, idles great and runs great otherwise.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Herky

 

Update: The rebuilt 22re runs great. About 1200 miles now and broken in. The gas mileage is BAD. Engine running very rich. The old motor was 20 mpg and now 13.5 mpg, but as I said, engine performance excellent. We used a new (green) ECU temperature sensor, a new O2 sensor and I rebuilt IAC valve (see thread). Tailpipe is black. Plan on checking the O2 sensor and putting the old green ECU sensor in to see if that is the issue. Welcoming any ideas here as we don't want to destroy the catalytic converter. 84 yota dude (my cousin) posted same question on thread "Recent Rebuild Poor MPG." Only other symptom is very slight vibration at idle when engine warm but not when cold idling.

Thanks

H

 

Well, I think we found the problem. Seems like one of the "rebuilt" injectors we bought is stuck open, This was determined by jumping terminals, turning ignition switch ON (not starting car) and running fuel pump. You could hear one injector running (could not determine exactly which one. Got some more injectors coming. Will let you know how it turns out.

-H