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I removed IAC inner parts for cleaning and body repainting. Reinstalling here. I advise that before removal, you mark position or retaining nut and slowly bottom valve noting the number of turns. A better spade bit would be smaller than 1 inch I had. Had to grind down sides of bit. I think a 7/8 or 13/16 would be better.
Bottom of IAC valve housing. Pin goes in center hole
Removable internal parts of IAC. Used a ultrasonic cleaner on TB and IAC parts with Simple Green for Aircraft. Good for aluminum. Don't use regular Simple Green for aluminum.
This pin is inserted groove down into the center of brass housing at bottom of IAC. Total movement of this pin against valve is approximately 4 mm from full cold to full hot.
I measured thread pitch of IAV valve retaining nut and using a thread pitch gauge from tap and die set. Pitch was 1.0. So, one full turn of nut was a 1mm adjustment. After removing inner parts, there a pin that sits inside the brass housing at bottom of body housing. This pin extends based on temperature and moves the valve to closed when the engine warm coolant moves through valve. I noted that factory nut adjustment was between 1-1/2 and 2 turns from bottom. Curious, I put valve body in freezer and noted where the pin was, then in very hot water to extend the pin. It extend about 4mm. Not much. I noted that when the adjusting nut was set, the valve was very slightly open and only took less than a mm to close it. I now see why this valve is so finicky and hard to adjust resulting in high idle problems. There is little or no info out there on how to adjust these and I understand why people get frustrated and buy new expensive ones. Once we get the car up and running and tuned, I will post if we were successful or screwed this up.
6-40 x 3/8" oval head allen hex screws used to affix throttle plate to throttle shaft. Got them from Ace hardware
I went a bit overboard on the throttle body. In addition to using allen head screws on the throttle position sensor, I used them to replace Phillips cross-point screws and bolts for fasting the IAC to throttle body, the IAC valve cover to IAC body, and the throttle body assembly to upper intake.
Stainless oval head allen screws for IAC valve cover plate. You can use rounded allen cap screws here, too..
Oval head allen screws used to fasten cleaned, adjusted, painted IAC body to throttle body.
you can see the allen head bolts I used to fasten TB to upper plenum. I replace the one long stud in the upper plenum with a longer bolt. You can also see the longer Idle screw from LCE that permits side idle adjustment with one hand finger twist.
Good time to do a MarMount mod on the drivers side motor mount
Stud ground off
Used my friends drill press for drilling half inch bolt. Go slow through rubber.
Used a Grade 8 bolt. I have heard some MarMount mods breaking bolts. I'm guessing they were not Grade 8. I think length was 2-3/4 or 3". Did not tack weld bolt to bracket as I thought it would melt rubber mount. I used a ny-loc nut to prevent loosening and a 1/8" thick washer under the nut as I read somewhere that it cuts down on vibration. You can bench torque the assembly together. Don't know the torque spec, but if you get down on it hard you are just compressing the rubber.
Cover and frame side mount must be drilled to 1/2" to accommodate larger bolt.
Last edited by Herky; Sep 30, 2019 at 10:49 PM.
Reason: spelling
To clean cold start injector, I lopped off the head of the bango bolt... ...and epoxied it into a tire valve stem. I removed the Schraeder valve, drilled a small hole into the cap and JB welded a spray stem into it. Screwed the whole mess into the modified top of a Bell jar, hooked a battery to it and ran carb cleaner through it. I bought a bango bolt from LCE that allows attachment of a fuel pressure valve. The 90 degree brass 90 deg 1/8" male female obtained from Best Hardware. Gauge is oil filled Marshall's from Summit.
Cleaned, rebuilt, repainted power steering pump installed. Getting ready for p/s pump teardown. I followed FSM instructions. Edelmann repair kit included all seals. New bearing was a separate purchase. Pump torn down here. Looks disorganized here. Keep track of all parts and disassembly order. Extra careful of vane placement in piston. Rounded edges out! ll bolts torqued to spec.
The 89 junkyard engine came with all accessories. I rebuilt the 10PA17C compressor completely. Teardown for all new O-rings, shaft seal. The electromagnet tested good. I purchased a new clutch and pulley and correctly gauged clutch pulley placement. Painted bracket and mounted it to engine. Quite proud of my work...and then discovered the aa/c compressor out of the 87 4runner was a 10P15C. Oh...shoot. Completely different setup for bracket and hoses. So...I have a nice complete 10PA17C with pulley and clutch for sale. Also have the mounting bracket for sale. New clutch and pulley Teardown Used the FSM, parts from shopcenturyautoair.com and Century Auto Air youtube videos for assembly Assembly New o-rings and seal. This can be used for R12 or R134a (requires Schraeder conversion valve kit). This pic taken just before teardown.
Last edited by Herky; Nov 2, 2019 at 10:33 PM.
Reason: Add text
Thinking of posting some pics on how I cleaned up 87 wiring harness and a few things I learned as well as the finishes we used. If there is any interest out there, give a shout.
Chris and I will start the install on the 19th. Don't know how far we will get in four days. More picks to come.
Since this was a first build for Chris and I, we talked at length about what we would do. Talked a lot about and upgraded Toyota engine swap, small block Chevy and other things. In the end, we decided to do a stock build and learn as much as we could about the 22re. Looking back, this was important. We decided to build a solid, stock 22re motor. Since his original setup had some 200,000 miles and was still running, it convinced us to keep things stock. As an old hot rodder, I learned some things from others. We wanted to put our money where it would do the most good. Good quality components. Mostly Aisan. Didn't go overboard on machine work but decided to balance engine. Stayed away from expensive powder coating. We didn't have friends or a cheap way of doing our own power coating without buying the equipment or setting up a booth. Found a great paint guy at NAPA who advised us on quality hot enamels, prep and paint. Chris was able to save money by doing media blasting at machine shop at school.
From what I have read here and on other forums, there is only so much power you can pull from 22re. Yes, you can build it to 250hp, but expensive and likely not very streetable. Turbocharging doesn't seem to give much bang for the buck from what I have read. The design of the stock Toyota exhaust manifold is excellent. It looks like a free flowing shorty. We decided against a header. Chris already installed a CA legal larger diameter exhaust system and CAT. If we were to do this again, I would put the money into the head. Porting, bigger valves and cam is where I believe the power is at (coming from someone who knows little about this stuff). If you are looking for large power increases, I am guessing you would be better off swapping to a later, bigger motor. But that brings a host of other challenges. Chris has 32 inch tires on his runner and 4:10 gears. We are talking about 4:56s or 4:88s. This should give the feeling of more power. We have a pair of 4:88s. This will be a 90 percent street car with some light, occasional off-road. Looking for suggestions here. What would you do? 4:56s or 4:88s? How much will fuel consumption be affected?
Until we get this thing running, I have no idea if some things I did were mistakes. This engine was not torque plated when bored. I doubt they were at the factory when new. But, stock torque specs for head bolts are 58 ft-lbs. I'm thinking I should have stayed with stock Toyota head bolts. I used ARP head bolts torqued to 75 ft-lbs and a Toyota head gasket. Concerned that the higher head bolt torque and lack of torque plating when boring engine may result in block distortion. Comments?
Swapping to the later upgraded upper intake was a learning experience as well. Chris' 87 was a CA 22rec car and emissions stuff different from the 89. The 89 had air tubes, reed valve, intake resonator, a more extensive steel vacuum tree, and additional vacuum lines. All eliminated. We had to use block off plates on exhaust side due to lack of air tubes. Since the 89 was an automatic, the throttle body did not have a dashpot and the 87 (manual trans car) had a dashpot on the throttle body not adaptable to the 89 throttle body. Plan is to buy an 89 dashpot and install. We also had to purchase (cheap aftermarket, but reasonably good quality) an air intake tube to connect throttle body to rest of the intake plenum, airflow sensor, and air filter housing. We used the 87 steel vacuum tree, VSVs, sensors and vacuum setup. All vacuum hoses new silicone and all new coolant hoses from Gates. I had to slightly modify the 87 engine wiring harness to connect wiring to TPS sensor since 89 throttle body sits slightly higher than 87.
One thing I have not done but plan to do is test all sensors and VSVs. Some sensors have already been replaced new, such as the green temp sensor for the ECU. There are other sensors superseded by Tech Bulletins that are hard to source. We did install a new O2 sensor. Trying to keep cost down, I cleaned the EGR valve. It would be a shame to have put his all together, only to not have it not run right because 32 year old control components and sensors were marginally good or bad.
Prior to engine install, bell housing area cleaned, front seal cover removed, new trans front seal and housing gasket installed. Not shown is the installed clutch fork and new release bearing. The trans was drained prior to trans front seal replacement. Here Chris refills transmission the easy way. We installed as many parts as we could on the engine stand including heater hoses and clamps. Flywheel installed. Chris held front crank bolt with socket and breaker bar while I torqued flywheel bolts. Clutch and disc then installed with pilot centering tool. Chris making final checks before dropping engine in 4runner. Engine with accessory items installed just as we removed it. Includes engine wiring hardness and battery ground as well as firewall ground cables.
First go at dropping motor in. HUGE lesson learned. The 89 motor was from an automatic trans truck and the block lower bell housing attachments are different from a manual. Duh! After sorting the issue out, we pulled the lower attach mounts from Chris' old block and bolted them to 89 block. Torque to spec.
These are 1/2" NPT "push-loc" fittings for remote oil filter. Unlike fittings from the "kits", these actually swivel, allowing unscrewing of fitting without removing hose from barb.
"Push-loc" hose from Parker. Manufacturer said no clamps required, but Chris elected for some crimp clamps for extra security.
There were two holes in the side of the battery tray that were perfectly positioned to mount remote. One hole was also the stock point for mounting an air conditioning line bracket. We had some scrap 2" steel stock (1/8" thick) to make a 4" square flat mounting plate. One 4" square piece would save welding. Made a template of paper to mark holes. Painted and ready for install. Holes are slightly larger than 5/16" and holes in battery tray drilled to match. Here is the installed remote. We did not like the top mount fittings as they created a large loop for hoses. This was returned and a right port mount fitted.
Top mount remote swapped out for this Derale 25753 right port mount. Right port remote Derale 25753 solidly mounted to battery tray. Top center bolt hole of mount also accommodates bracket for air conditioning line. Remote sits 1-2" above level of block filter pad. Hoses will not drain when filter removed. Lines will be cut to length and "push-loc"d to fittings. Hoses 13-14" in length. Completing oil system upgrade is this Fumoto F103SX "quarter turn" banjo drain valve. Oil changes will be a snap! Attach drain hose to valve and empty into milk jug.
We talked about the benefits of stainless steel or black nylon braided hose and AN fittings for the remote, but decided it was easier to keep non-braided (smooth) clean. The barbed swivel "push-loc" fittings and matching hose was a great find and is consistent with the look of the engine compartment.
Chris upgraded his headlights to H4 housings and bulbs. Max benefit and brightness from new H4s with plug-n-play relay harness easily found on Amazon (for Toyota). Mounts neatly behind battery. Harness for drivers' side head light zip-tied under existing harness along underside of upper radiator core support.
Sep 30, 2019 | 04:07 PM
