i had a small leak on the back side of the tcase. I made a video for reference incase i have to do it again and for part number and what tools.

 

A few days ago the engine shut off driving down the interstate out of no where. it would start and run for about 3 seconds and die. did that a few times and realized it was either my AFM or COR. I think. someone can correct me if im wrong or have an idea. I put a wire in the odb plug between FP and B+ and runs fine now. at the time i also noticed the manifold was glowing red. Some research showed it could be the cat so I cut it off as well. Only change is its very loud so far. Yesterday I had a fuel leak from injector 1 (insulator split/o ring failed) so i purchased a kit on amazon to replace all the o rings/insulators and filters on the injectors.

 

Don't forget to wet the o-rings and insulator with gasoline as you install them. Yes, that's out of the FSM. NO SMOKING!

If it runs with the jumper in, I am pretty sure that indicates the COR. The AFM switch is super easy to check. It's nothing but a simple switch. No air through the AFM (vane closed), the switch is open. The vane opens, even a little, the switch is shorted.

Remember, when you take the plug off the AFM to test it's switch (Fc-E1), don't unscrew the two screws for it. Just open the wire bale and pull the plug.
If the AFM switch is good, it's the COR, no question.

I've seen my exhaust manifold glowing blue after an hour's drive at highway speed. That was more then 25 years and 250,000 miles ago. Haven't replaced anything in the exhaust system other than the muffler, and my pickup is still going strong. Same with the 4Runner, but a lot less mileage. Still 25 years, but only about 50K miles. It glows nicely after some highway time too.
Always at night is when I've seen the effect, though. Never bright enough in the daytime to see it.

Good luck!
Pat☺

 

thanks i will test it to make sure its working properly.

 

after doing the injectors and reattaching everything, it appears I left something off, disconnected or not hooked up right. with the AFM disconnected it will run but with very high idle. connected it will not run. cranks fine. its negative 3 and snowing now so im not going to mess with it til i can get it back in the garage. i should of parked it there in the first place.

 

i pulled off the intake manifold again to check the mating surfaces again and sure enough i left alittle gasket on one port so i scraped everything clean and reattached it. it runs and drives fine now.

also i just bought a house in omaha so i will have a nice comfy place to work on the 1uz swap. ive been telling myself i would have it done this year so we shall see.

 

I have acquired a 3D printer to start making my own interior pieces that have broken or did not have originally. I am currently getting it properly setup so I can for sure get pieces to come out right the first time. I have found a bunch of sites with some cool designs and ideas, and one of the first will be a speaker pod in the kick panel. my initial idea was to cut a hole in it and mold my own out of fiberglass but after getting this, i can make the entire pieces myself.

I was able to get an Artillery Sidewinder X1 v4

 

I used tundra/sequoia 2uz log style exhaust manifolds for my 1uz swap and they worked great. I love my 1uz in my first gen!
sweet rig!!