One more thing The diesel 4runner this guy brings in aren't actually labeled 4Runners, they are actually labeled Hilux Surf

 

Sweet man, glad you grabbed those rims, those SR5 rims are great looking. Good work on the engine, I'm sure you'll get it going by the 4th.

 

Just thought I would post some uninteresting photos of my recheck of the connecting rod journal when i plastigaged it for the 3rd time just to make sure.
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I used Lucas assembly oil to lube it all up. As well I pour it in the oil pump. The stuffs pretty good some what like Honey thick and kind of tacky.



Here's a picture of the SR5 Rims i purchased for $75.00. You can see the center cap has the logo which I believe wasn't introduced until 1989.

 

The runner is called a Surf and the pick ups are Hilux. How does he get the diesels overhere? I dont know the diesel that they put in our generation of trucks, but the diesels I drove overseas that were Toyotas were the late 90s or newer and they are great on power and mileage. We are missing out over here. I see gas only going to go higher and would like to eventually convert one of mine to diesel in hopes of getting my cost per mile down.

Watch using just plain old water out of the facet for cleaning your rims. The chlorine in the water will bleach your rim. I let mine soak in a tub of water and is how I found out the hard way. Something I didnt know and wound up just getting another rim. The SR5 rim is hard to come by around here. Same with the center caps.

 

Hey Terry,
Thanks for chiming in. The Hilux was the label of the Pickup truck for the most part of everywhere else except USA and a few other places. The Hilux Surf was the label of the 4runner and the same as far as the labeling around the world like the pickup trucks. My understanding is that the Hilux Surf was discontinued, but continued the line of 4runner sales in the USA so after the 4th generation of Hilux Surf there is no more.



You are probably right as to the 2l diesel no being offered in the first generation Hilux Surf, but if you take a look at the wiki and notice that for the 1st generation label 4Runner a 2L model was marketed. My understanding is that Australia and maybe a bunch of other regions got the diesel version with the label 4runner with very little diesels entering into the USA if at all. Again I am no expert or actually know all the historical parts of the truck, but it is interesting. It seems that Most of the Hilux trucks got the 2l engines and the second generation Hilux Surf got the turbo 2L-T engines.



Which all this makes sense, if you can find a 4runner overseas diesel you can probably bring it in as or as like a 4runner (that means very little epa changes) plus because of the age of the vehicle you can also by pass a few of the regulations on them as they are over 25yrs. I’m sure I’ll find out more when I see the guy next time. He said he’s bringing one in next year, I asked him about just bringing in the 2L motors instead of the whole truck he said which I find hard to believe it’s cheaper this way. If you where to bring in a motor I’m you can by pass a whole bunch of customs and what not, plus shipping should be cheaper than a whole truck, you can have it shipped LCL (loose container load) instead of RORO (roll-on/roll-off). Yeah I would love to get a diesel 1st gen 4runner myself, plus the fact of 30 to 40 miles to a gallon seems interesting.


As for the rims, I am trying to figure out the best way to clean the rims, but some say to sand, I think buffing it a little will help, but most get into clear coating it. I not clear on which route I’ll taking right now.

 

Hey all,

Given the fact the weather looks bad today and may not have a chance to continue work on the truck I figured I'd at the least give a little update.

I have everything bolted up and done so far. Over the weekend I cranked the truck a few times to actually try and prime the oil pump through. Everything seemed fine. Yesterday I figured I'd charge the battery up since it was sitting so long and I gave a good couple of cranks the day before so I put it on the charge and off I went to doing some other things.

Well came back after a short time and plugged in the spark plugs cables and tried firing it up. It did, but only for a few seconds then died. tried a few times more and then noticed the dash flickering then the dash light just went out. Figured the battery cables where loose and tighten them up. went back and turned the key and the dash lit up, but tried cranking and the dash flickered and died out. I checked the fusible links to see if I had fried those, but they looked fine, then looked under the box to see if any of the wiring had come loose, nada everything was fine. Hooked up the battery and notice a sound coming out of the engine kind of a sparking sound like when you strike a hot wire on to ground, but didn't see any actual sparks. It sounded as if it was coming from between the plenum and the valve cover. Removed the ECU just in case so I don't fry that. I didn't get around to looking at it as it was getting dark and starting to rain.

Today I was going to remove the plenum and look through the wire harness to see if I had exposed something that may be grounding out. I had done some work this past weekend on the wire running from the water temperature sensor which had finally broke off since it was on it's last strand. I soldered the wires, but tugged a little (maybe to much) so I could move the shrink tubing wouldn't be so close to the soldering heat that would stop me from sliding it over the solder area. Hopefully it is something as easy as that a bare wire grounding.

If I see a little bit of clearance this afternoon I'll try and get that much in as it takes about 10 minutes to remove the plenum.

Sorry about that guys I know pictures are great and I promised to do better in that area, I didn't get pictures of the work, besides those pictures are boring considering I have them already of the engine going build and installing through out this thread.

 

Okay as I mentioned earlier that I had finished installing the motor into the truck and got everything. Turns out I have another problem that I need to resolve. I have a electrical problem somewhere, what I thought was a short between the plenum and the valve cover was just the injectors clicking because of the electrical short somewhere causing the injectors to fire. I thought it may be in the harness, but I checked continuity and all seems good.

I disconnected the injectors from the harness and the injector’s resistor as well.






I disconnected the coil as well.



Heard the EFI replay clicking as well so I took it out then I heard a hissing on the fuse panel after I took the EFI relay off so I decided to remove all the relays.




Still saw the surging so I went and pulled the harness from the front side of the fuse panel.



Disconnected the ECM



Disconnected the COR



Went back up front and disconnected the Alternator just in case something was happening with that.



Then went over and removed the battery cable to starter as well.



Along with all this I disconnected the Fuel Pump at the pump. Disconnected the transmission and tcase cable as well.

Nothing has worked so far, but I guess my next approach is to check the iginition.

Here's a short clip of the surging, watch the voltage on the dash and watch red lights on the dash and you see how bright red they get.
By the way the truck is not running just the key in the ignition in the on position.



Any help on this would really be appreciated. Thanks

 

Come on anyone have any idea as to what could be causing the electrical surging?

 

Okay, I have been through this in my head and actually Coryc85 maybe 100% correct my battery maybe the culprit on this electrical issue. Should have been the first thing that I headed for.

You are the MAN... crossing my fingers that this is the problem even though it would set me back a c-note/Benjamin. I will put the old battery on the charge by it self and charge it up (should a few, but still getting a replacement), while its charging, I will start putting parts back together.

 

that's definitely a fubar battery

 

Thanks bbrideau, i need all the help I can get. It seems I'm a blind man when it comes to my one stuff.

 

Okay, The battery was on the charger for about 1hour or so starting from a slow charge. Popped it into the truck and tried cranking, after 3 tries the batteries dead. Off to get a new battery. CORYC85 was spot-on. Thanks...

 

Update 07/04/2013....

HAPPY FORTH OF JULY TO YOU ALL...

I have an update for you all. The battery was the source of the problem as Coryc85 originally point out to me. I thank him for this as I should have myself not been so blind to this simple issues even after disconnecting everything there was.

Moving on, I got things button up and the little stuff taken care of and cleared everything for a ready to crank and crossing my fingers. I crank the truck up and it starts on the first turn. Not bad, but I rev it just a little and what do I hear. Knock knock knock... at idle no knocking, nicely running rev it just a little and knock knock. It can't be the rod bearings on the first start can it?

I'm thinking maybe the Cam or the Rockers, this would the easiest to do, but the hardest would be the Rod Wrist wrist pin bushings. If you're wondering why i think it could be the wrist pin bushings, the bushing where never changed. I betting its the wrist pin bushings, but praying it's not.

 

Sorry guys no update on the truck, but I know what I have to do and should have done from the beginning. Take the motor out and change to wrist pin bushings.

On a different note, I had to work this weekend up north, but i was able to score tranny/tcase for free off a 89 Pickup Truck. I was working at a scrap yard and saw this pickup truck there and it turned out to be a 4 wheel drive truck, pretty much much stripped out. Interior missing A/C, and heater core, (I thought i could get a few nicknacks off the interior, but not so, cab was actually crushed already and the interior was pretty bad, stripped. It still had the tranny so i tried looking, but since it only had one wheel it was hard to see. I got it pulled out with a Bobcat and lifted up to see. Looking good, the tranny was a W56-C forward Shifter. Still didn't know if it was any good. Based on what Philbert mention early on about rotating the drive and shifting, it spun pretty smooth. Decided to take good or bad as the parts maybe use full (gears).

Well Bolts were so badly rusted the thread where stripped and they didn't back out. Plus one of the bolts was welded to the frame as right next to the bolt they patched a rusted hole in the frame and accidentally welded the bolt. Got the guys in the yard to drag it about 50 yards close to the Torch they had and with the torch cut cross brace and removed the tranny mount bolts and the tranny just hung from the boots. i turn for a second to find something to cut the rubber boot and a guy helping me out grabbed a knife and cut and let the tranny drop. Didn't notice it before , but the tranny had cracked or better put chipped a 1" hole in the housing. Noticed when i was trying to take off the bell housing to put in the car. Decided not to take it home with me, but leave it up there on hold for me to pick up later. Doesn't bother me that it had been cracked because I was thinking I could convert this to a W56-B as I have that other pitted rusted gears tranny that I bought for $35 bucks last year and could use the housings and the shifters for the conversion.

Took the front differential as you see in the picture as well.


Also notice the Manual locking hubs on it, so i tried taking it off, but i only got one side off with all the cone washers. I would have like to taken the entire knuckle(the 54mm locking nut needed to be removed), but that was impossible. Tried to take the other side off, but no such luck, that side had a rim and being as I really didn't have tools or the lack there of it was impossible. I could have torched out the forks on the IFS and just be done, but time and tools was an issue in this case time since I had the torch at my disposal.

I got a call from the owners of this scrap metal recycling yard early Sunday morning and they asked me if I was able to get what i needed out the truck I said yes I got the tranny, but I would have like to get the hubs, they really didn't understand what I was talking about since they are a scrap yard and not a auto salvage yard so they ask if I could send them an email with the description. I sent them a photo and they will try to have it cut out early in the morning before they crush the truck.

Here's the image I sent them of what I wanted:



Maybe I'll get the parts I need or maybe not. It really doesn't matter, they said that I can have the stuff.

 

I missed your having electrical issues. Glad to see you got it fixed and was an easy fix at that. Electric is not my strong area. Even if the tranny is bad, there are still somethings that can be used off of it. Nothing else a way to learn to disassemble a tranny. Great score on that.

 

nice score on trans n t case and the manual hubs are a bonus too, even if it is only one side. glad the battery problem is all sorted out

 

Terry - Thanks for chiming in, electrical is not my strong part either neither is mechanics...Hahaha. The tranny will be good for parts. If you remember I bought one way back that was in pretty bad shape. I still have that one and plan to use the housing from that plus a few other items hopefully to practice making up a fairly decent one.

bbrideau - thanks I think one of the most common issues with these trucks is the tranny as they have been through a lot since they are more than 20yrs so having an extra is always a plus. I was looking for a set of manual hubs to replace out the auto locking hubs as I personally don't like the auto. I heard they fail more so than the manual, but that's just hear say. It was to bad I wasn't able to get both of them, actually I got the manual locking hubs, but wasn't able to get the housing as I wasn't able to remove the cones as easy with the rim on that one side. So basically i was able to get 1 1/2 of the pair. It surprised me how blind I was to the battery which should have been the first thing I looked at. The fact is it is easier for me to see someone else is problem than my own.

 

I pulled the engine out this week and tore down everything piece by piece and couldn't find anything wrong. I got to the piston connecting rods and checked out the wrist pins. There wasn't any play on them, had them double checked with my neighbor the airplane mechanic and he said the same thing. He came over and we went through the block and head and he couldn't see a thing that would cause the knocking.

Yesterday I was able to put that engine back together and drop it back into the engine bay and bolt everything backup. Had a few hiccups along the way as some of the wiring I guess due to age and the putting on and off times I worked on them caused some of them too frail the broke apart which left me soldering them back together. Eventually I would like to replace or repair all the adapters with decent ones.

Wish me luck today that it starts and runs with out any hiccups.

 

Man I'm rootin for ya! That's always the make it or break it time, and hopefully it'll go off w/o a hitch

 

Wishing you the best of luck. Will check in later today for some good news from you.