Is that some kind of e locker plug on the diff?

 

LOVE that rig! Dangit, ...now my Toyotamodticulitus Virus is acting up again hahaha.

 

Glad to hear that the engine is doing good man. Now I really can't wait to get my engine. haha

And I love that Crown Royal shift boot.

Cheers!

 

Haha thanks! Not sure of it is an e locker plug or not. Being that it is a high pinion diff and they are normally found in land cruisers,mother it probably is.

 

I finally redrilled my t case flange and mounted up my driveshaft. The angle is still WAY horrible, so don't hate me on that. I'm not running the driveshaft or using it, I'm just keeping it mounted up until I get some shims to help with the angle, so that's what's next n my list.

Engine is running awesome and only has 800 miles on it so far. Just did an oil change with 10w-40 and will be doing another oil change at 1000-1500 miles.

 

Just picked up some 4 degree shims from low range offload to put up front. Figured that should be enough before the high steer starts to rub on the leaf springs.

 

Nice wrx man let me know if you have any question once you start modding it. Ive owned 5 in the past everything from a 91 bc legacy with a jdm ej20g swap all the way up to a fully built 05 sti.

 

Just put my 4 degree shims on the front the other day to hopefully decreasethe angle a little bit on the front drive shaft. I didn't go with the 6 degree because of the steering drag links and good thing I didnt go with the 6 because the 4 is making them rub a little bit. I need some help trying to fix this problem...any advice is awesome.

Has anyone ever heard of lowering the drivetrain by throwing some washers or spacers on these bolts? I was thinking of loosening the engine mounts and these drivetrain bolts, throw some washers in there to lower it a little and then tighten everything back up. I know it sounds sketchy, but has anyone ever heard of this?

A picture of my steering arms, how can I fix this rubbing?! :-/



Hardly any difference in the angle compared to before...AHHH!

 

your drive shaft is on backwards

 

Yes I know...that's the only way it fits on.

Previous post from page 5:
"Got my front driveshaft lenthened from stock from when the IFS was on. Place charged me 200 bucks, which I thought was decent to reweld and replace the joints and whatnot. HOWEVER, when i bolted it up with the universal joint at the t case, it did not fit. But when I put the CV joint at the t case, it fits right with no flexing issues. Has anyone else had to do this? I haven't bolted it up this way yet to test but I'm just curious as to why it fits this way and not the other and just to see if other people have had to do this? Any comments or help on this is greatly appreciated..."

 

what do you mean by "it doesn't fit"? are the flange holes not lining up?
the driveshaft angle doesn't look that bad to me, mine's that steep and i have much less lift than you. i'm sure the high pinion is helping a lot

 

The flange holes for the cv joint at the bottom didnt line up on the high pinion flange and also if the universal joint is at the top, it doesn't provide enough angle for the cv joint to reach the bottom. I'm not sure why it doesn't fit the way it's supposed to so I had to put it backwards. I had an extra t case flange in my garage and redrilled it fit the cv joint at the top. The high pinion definitely helped a lot but there is still crucial vibration

 

Holes don't line up or don't flex down enough? Ifs drivelines the cv don't flex as much about 10 degrees less than straight axle drivelines. ifs trucks the diff never moves so they don't need to flex. If flex is your issue then you might look for an 84-85 cv or take yours apart and clearance it for more angle.

 

The holes didn't line up at the cv on the flange on my high pinion diff and there wasn't enough flex in the u joint to let it reach

 

I'm probably going to have to weld a cv from an earlier model like you said on the end where the u joint is

 

Why not do it like this:



Obviously it would be longer than pictured but that would eliminate the stress on the driveline and you could remove the shims. You could even put one of those joints on the rear shaft and remove any shims back there.



(Also I could be completely wrong. I am by no means a professional when it comes to driveshafts)

 

I just wanna make sure I understand what you're saying.....just have two u joints rather than one cv and one u joint like I have now? It seems right now that the cv joint has more play on the angle than the u joint so it seems the u joint is the weak link, or do I have it completely opposite? And then you're saying move the cv joint to the rear driveshaft?
Not to mention that driveshaft pictured is 700 bones :-/

 

As of now you have 3 u-joints. I'm saying get another front shaft remove the cv off of it and put it on the lower end of your shaft. Then let the machine shop balance it and theoretically you should be good to go.

Then you will have 4 u-joints.

Like I said before I'd really like more input on my idea but if they sell them premade I don't see why it wouldn't work.

 

That is because you should have clearanced the cv joint. You had a long slip joint added too right?

Edit: link http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/

 

Both joints are stock except for the driveshaft being rewelded, extended, and balanced. S how much more angle do you get from clearancing the joints like shown in the link?