travis_h

If its a cv driveline from a stock ifs truck you should gain about 10 degrees. That's gonna equal about 2" of drop for every foot your driveline is. 1ft. = 2" drop. 2ft. = 4" drop.

brpaul

Awesome thread. Great job!

pitfallguy72

Thanks! I know it's Christmas and Merry Christmas to everyone! I've been spending most of my day looking up new truck mods for the new year and thought I'd share. Went to a local pick pull and picked up a black grill from an 84 2wd pickup and will be putting that on this week to match my black and blue theme. For Christmas I got new truck steps by Carr and installed one this morning. I didn't get sliders because I don't plan on taking the truck around anything huge and these work better.

I am planning on getting rid of my front fender flares and getting all new fenders because the passenger fender is cracking at the bottom and eventually wanna new paint job. I also dented my hood with my hi lift jack when I was installing my shims so I was thinking about this combination. What do you guys think?


This way i can fix all of my issues in one swoop. But then I need to fix my rear quarters because there is some slight rust on them.
Also this week, I will be attempting to clearance my CV for more clearance angle on my driveshaft and will keep y'all posted.
Merry Christmas!

pitfallguy72

Forgot to post this as well...any other crossfit lovers out there?

pitfallguy72

I went to the local shop that did my SAS and asked them about clearancing my driveshaft and they said that they would never recommend doing that because of binding issues. Any other expertise or experience in this area?

liveoffroad

as the previous post says, the straight axle driveshafts have a lot more angular movement than the ifs ones, i haven't read up on "clearancing" the ifs one, but i'm assuming Toyota made both driveshafts very similar, so i would think you can modify the ifs one to match the axle ones. in other words, clearance it or buy one from an earlier truck and pay to have it lengthened again. seems like your only options to me.
as far as the draglink issue goes, i don't know of any solution other than building custom, low-profile spring mounts. there might be a knuckle spacer of some kind out there that will raise the draglink up, but i haven't seen one. looks like you have a lot of spring up front there, what about taking a leaf out?
EDIT: looking at your pictures, it looks like you could pull that bottom leaf w/o messing with your spring rate too much. you could search for some longer shims to make up for the missing spring...

pitfallguy72

There is someone parting out an 84 pickup about 1 1/2 hours away I think I am going to pick up the front driveshaft from and hopefully get this driveshaft issue fixed. Along with that, this week I plan on removing the second to last leaf on the front just as 4crawler mentioned and also remove my shims. I'm hoping that this will help solve my issues. BTW the shims have increased my wobble up front tremendously as there is a slight pull when steering. This could also be because my drag link sometimes rubs on my leaf springs from being up so high. I will post my progress on Tuesday when I attack it.

As for a few other things, I decided to move one of my rear grab handles to the driver side and install a mag lite where the rear handle used to be. Believe it or not, the holes are already drilled on the driver side for a handle but was never installed, so all I had to do was poke through the headliner and match the screws to the front passenger handle and you got yourself a handle. As for the mag lite mounts, there is only one screw on each mount but still holds really well and they are a direct fit using the handle screws.



I bought 4crawlers mounting system to mount my hi jack lift to the roll cage rather than keeping it on my bumper and letting it rust and get banged around. Very easy install, but the screw was a little tight fitting into the roll cage so I did the best I could.


This week I also had some mods added to my bumper at a local hitch shop. They were a bit pricey for everything but was well worth it. It was raised to match the height of the grill up front, added some mounting points and front hanger support and also installed some new turn signals...$350





That's it for now, but looking forward to straighten out this front driveshaft issue.

1986 4runner, 5"HD trail gear front, 6" 63" Chevy lift springs rear, 5.29 open diffs front and rear, high pinion front, new 22re from 22reperformance.com, 37x13.50R18 xterrains on moto metals

pitfallguy72

I put this up in the truck tech section as well, but putting it in my build up as well. lately I had some problems with some wires shorting out and caused the truck to not be able to start and therefore removed a bunch of excess wires that were from previous owners mods and the problem disappeared. Now once I have removed a bunch of those random wires I am having a sputtering slow acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear. When I accelerate quickly it doesn't happen and it runs fine at idle. I had a loose injector connector but I replaced that and it didn't solve the problem and I have no idea what It could be. Any ideas?

Front driveshaft issue solved: extended the ifs section with the cv joint a couple inches and switched to an '85 high flex joint and BAZINGA! No more issues, only minor vibes above 10-15 mph and doesn't turn well in 4WD, rear tires start chirping and spinning when trying to turn. Do lockers solve this issue? I have open diffs front and rear as of now. Again my truck is a work in progress so a lot of this stuff I am new to and getting acquainted with. thanks for the help!

1986 4runner, 5"HD trail gear front, 6" 63" Chevy lift springs rear, 5.29 open diffs front and rear, high pinion front, new 22re from 22reperformance.com, 37x13.50R18 xterrains on moto metals

pitfallguy72

Just bought me some tube doors from 4xinnovations with the quick release hinge kit. I've taken the stock doors off and put the tube doors on. I tried switching back to the stock doors to see how easy it would be and WHAT A PAIN IN THE A**! Anyways here are some recent pics. Any ideas on a quicker way to swap these doors out?

Also, anyone looking for bushwhacker fender flares? I'm looking to sell mine










Here is a pic of what the hinges look like from their website


1986 4runner, 5"HD trail gear front, 6" 63" Chevy lift springs rear, rock assault front housing with high steer and dirty 30's, k&n intake, LCE headers-cat-muffler, 5.29 open diffs front and rear, high pinion front, new 22re from 22reperformance.com, 37x13.50R18 xterrains on moto metals

rustED

iTrader: (2)

Your runner looks sick with the tube doors and soft topper! Nice work. For the hinges on my old 83' I made a set of half doors for it, I just cut and notched out the top hole on both hinges to make a "U" shaped notch so all I had to do is loosen 2 bolts (without taking them all the way out) and I could just lift the door off. I don't think I ever put the bottom hinge bolts back in (i'm to lazy, lol) but the yota doors are so light I never had a problem with them with just the two bolts holding the door on.

The front bumper looks good sitting up closer to the grill, I like how your hi-lift jack mount turned out also!

Erik Hinch

iTrader: (3)

Hey Pit, the truck looks GREAT, also fabulous thread. I sold my blue '86 with all the fiberglass, and found a diamond for a deal. Getting it built up slowly.
I am interested in the fender flares. I live in Abingdon VA 24210. You willing to ship them?

'85 Yota

Nice 4runner! I want one pretty bad. How do you like tube doors? Id make them, Im just worried about stuff flying/falling out.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Sexayyyyy! Lol. ... Sick Rig, man!