1985 4runner Build
09-02-2013, 01:04 AM
#21
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I am trying to make my steps on pulling a body/frame off a little more easier or understandable. If you see something that I missed or would be a little simpler, let me know and I will add it to my earlier post. I copy and paste it when I see someone wanting to do a frame/body swap and am always looking for suggestions that migt help the next guy.
Last edited by Terrys87; 09-02-2013 at 01:05 AM.
09-02-2013, 03:30 PM
#22
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This is the kind of builds I like to see. You will find it rewarding when done knowing that you have touched about every nut and bolt when done. As far as the frame, I just paint mine and clean inside it real well with high pressure air and water and a few times a year I clean it out again. After the first time of cleaning it, it isnt to hard to keep clean after that. Otherwise I might would suggest a spray on bed liner or something similar in an aerosol can, I have never used it so not sure how that would work.
I have never used Old Man Emu but hear great things about them. I asked jason in tn and he likes them really well and has used them and suggested it. The 86 and newer is IFS and is alot different then the 85s solid axle. I can ask a few that would know that better then me and see what they suggest.
One thing I would suggest while you have it this far down is to go thru your fuel system. The fuel tanks I clean out by filling them with white vinegar and letting them soak for a few days. The return line or the fuel pump assembly is most likely gong to be clogged. Here in the midwest, the humidity really puts rust in the tanks. Be very careful with the fuel pump assembly as they are hard to find and expensive. The metal line that connects to the rubber line likes to twist if not careful.
If the fuel pump is in bad shape (most likely), you can get a fuel pump off of ebay for $25 shipped. Toyota wants $300 and parts stores want $150. The ebay pumps work great for me and I have never had a problem with them.
It looks like you are soaking the bolts that hold your tire carrier. The tire carrier assembly is most likely all rusted up. I have gotten some really bad carriers working by soaking several days in PB Blaster and then gently working the lifting assembly until it frees up. Just takes some time and paitience.
I just know them in stock condition, but if you let me know ahead of time where you are going next in your next step for parts or teardown, I will try and give you a heads up on what to look for or where to get the best parts for cheaper then the dealer or parts store in some cases.
Taking the frame off may have seemed intimidating at first, but if you had to put it back together, I bet you feel real confident about it and it would go alot quicker for you then what it did coming apart as it is still fresh on your mind and the nuts and bolts arent frozen.
I have never used Old Man Emu but hear great things about them. I asked jason in tn and he likes them really well and has used them and suggested it. The 86 and newer is IFS and is alot different then the 85s solid axle. I can ask a few that would know that better then me and see what they suggest.
One thing I would suggest while you have it this far down is to go thru your fuel system. The fuel tanks I clean out by filling them with white vinegar and letting them soak for a few days. The return line or the fuel pump assembly is most likely gong to be clogged. Here in the midwest, the humidity really puts rust in the tanks. Be very careful with the fuel pump assembly as they are hard to find and expensive. The metal line that connects to the rubber line likes to twist if not careful.
If the fuel pump is in bad shape (most likely), you can get a fuel pump off of ebay for $25 shipped. Toyota wants $300 and parts stores want $150. The ebay pumps work great for me and I have never had a problem with them.
It looks like you are soaking the bolts that hold your tire carrier. The tire carrier assembly is most likely all rusted up. I have gotten some really bad carriers working by soaking several days in PB Blaster and then gently working the lifting assembly until it frees up. Just takes some time and paitience.
I just know them in stock condition, but if you let me know ahead of time where you are going next in your next step for parts or teardown, I will try and give you a heads up on what to look for or where to get the best parts for cheaper then the dealer or parts store in some cases.
Taking the frame off may have seemed intimidating at first, but if you had to put it back together, I bet you feel real confident about it and it would go alot quicker for you then what it did coming apart as it is still fresh on your mind and the nuts and bolts arent frozen.
Is there any other suspension lifts that you know of that is made for 85s.
I will be sure to check the fuel tank. But I have already the metal gas line going to the engine and it looks good. How do you know if the fuel pump is bad or not? And do you have a link for a fuel pump that I could get. Actually the tire carrier kinda work but I will still have to soak it in something. I will let you know next time too. Yea the frame did take a while to get off since we didn't take out the engine and we didn't have a lift.
As far as your early post I think you got it all covered except a lot of the tubes that go to the engine have to be disconnected like the power steering and radiator hose.
09-02-2013, 03:37 PM
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Since I have got the body off the frame I have taken the fuel line and brake lines running along the frame off. Also I have taken the gas tank and exhaust off. I have also started do grind the frame from rust to bare metal. i still don't know what to paint it with. I want the paint I use to last a long time.
If you you guys have any comments or tips please say them since basically all I know came from this website.
If you you guys have any comments or tips please say them since basically all I know came from this website.
09-03-2013, 06:40 PM
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does anyone know what other toyota models have the same stock seats as an 85 4runnner?
ive heard dual cab hilux's and surfs may fit.
ive recently purchased an 85 and the previous owner has removed the seats to make storage boxes but now im taking them out because i want more seating capacity.
ive heard dual cab hilux's and surfs may fit.
ive recently purchased an 85 and the previous owner has removed the seats to make storage boxes but now im taking them out because i want more seating capacity.
09-04-2013, 01:54 AM
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The sock on the pump can be in bad shape or just a lot of corrosion built up on the pump and pump assembly. I will post a link later when I get to my home computer as far as the pump. There are other sites, but Yotatech has about all the information you will need to get thru your project except maybe bodywork if you go that far, then you would be better off with Youtube or similar sites and this site is alot friendlier then some of the others.
If you do find something you want more information, Google the question with Yotatech in the question and it will usually take you to a thread somewhere on here with what you are looking for. YTs search bar isnt the best, but with Google it works great.
cummo85... You are lucky to get the 4 door trucks, I have seen them but not here in the states. As far as seats, 84-88s are what you will need. There is a thread on here somewhere about using 89-95 Runner/Surf seats. It takes a little modification but can be done. 2nd gen runners interiors tend to be a better built interior. The front right front seat wont have the sliding mechanisim for the rear passengers and I am not sure if you can add a first gen runners sliding mechanism to the 2nd gen runners seat.
If you do find something you want more information, Google the question with Yotatech in the question and it will usually take you to a thread somewhere on here with what you are looking for. YTs search bar isnt the best, but with Google it works great.
cummo85... You are lucky to get the 4 door trucks, I have seen them but not here in the states. As far as seats, 84-88s are what you will need. There is a thread on here somewhere about using 89-95 Runner/Surf seats. It takes a little modification but can be done. 2nd gen runners interiors tend to be a better built interior. The front right front seat wont have the sliding mechanisim for the rear passengers and I am not sure if you can add a first gen runners sliding mechanism to the 2nd gen runners seat.
09-05-2013, 04:21 AM
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The sock on the pump can be in bad shape or just a lot of corrosion built up on the pump and pump assembly. I will post a link later when I get to my home computer as far as the pump. There are other sites, but Yotatech has about all the information you will need to get thru your project except maybe bodywork if you go that far, then you would be better off with Youtube or similar sites and this site is alot friendlier then some of the others.
If you do find something you want more information, Google the question with Yotatech in the question and it will usually take you to a thread somewhere on here with what you are looking for. YTs search bar isnt the best, but with Google it works great.
If you do find something you want more information, Google the question with Yotatech in the question and it will usually take you to a thread somewhere on here with what you are looking for. YTs search bar isnt the best, but with Google it works great.
Thanks Kiroshu and grizler00. I think have decided take the frame to a shop near me so they can sandblast and powder coat it. So I will have to take everything off of the frame like the engine and the diffs. I will do some tonight and try to post some pictures.
09-06-2013, 04:16 AM
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Removing engine and transmission
The other day I pulled the gas tank, some break lines and fuel lines, and the exhaust.
Yesterday we took off the engine and the transmission.
I was also wondering if it would be a good idea to go ahead and replace the clutch disk and all that. And how hard it would be.
That is about as far as we got because the transmission took around 2 hours to do which was way longer then I thought it would take.
Yesterday we took off the engine and the transmission.
I was also wondering if it would be a good idea to go ahead and replace the clutch disk and all that. And how hard it would be.
That is about as far as we got because the transmission took around 2 hours to do which was way longer then I thought it would take.
09-06-2013, 06:36 AM
#31
Looks great!!
I would most definitely replace the flywheel(or machine it), and get a clutch kit if you have the money. You dont want to go through all this work and have a clutch fail after its all back together.
I would also suggest that you replace the rear main seal as well as the trans front seal.
Save you alot of headaches later on.
I would most definitely replace the flywheel(or machine it), and get a clutch kit if you have the money. You dont want to go through all this work and have a clutch fail after its all back together.
I would also suggest that you replace the rear main seal as well as the trans front seal.
Save you alot of headaches later on.
09-06-2013, 10:25 AM
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Looks great!!
I would most definitely replace the flywheel(or machine it), and get a clutch kit if you have the money. You dont want to go through all this work and have a clutch fail after its all back together.
I would also suggest that you replace the rear main seal as well as the trans front seal.
Save you alot of headaches later on.
I would most definitely replace the flywheel(or machine it), and get a clutch kit if you have the money. You dont want to go through all this work and have a clutch fail after its all back together.
I would also suggest that you replace the rear main seal as well as the trans front seal.
Save you alot of headaches later on.
Do you think I should get a OEM kit or upgrade kit.
OK where could I find those two seals
09-07-2013, 10:06 PM
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Getting frame ready for sandblasting
Today got a little bit done. We took everything off the frame to get it ready for sandblasting.
Took steering box off
Now on to the springs. They took for ever to get off. The first one we cut off. Then we heated the rest with a torch.
We had to cut 2 of the 4 ubolts to get the rear diff off.
Then we started to take stuff off the rear diff.
After we got everything off the rear diff we started on the front.
And that is as far as we got. Do any of you have suggestions on what i should replace while I have the body off. Also do any of you know of a good around 3 inch suspension lift kit that would be a direct bolt on.
Took steering box off
Now on to the springs. They took for ever to get off. The first one we cut off. Then we heated the rest with a torch.
We had to cut 2 of the 4 ubolts to get the rear diff off.
Then we started to take stuff off the rear diff.
After we got everything off the rear diff we started on the front.
And that is as far as we got. Do any of you have suggestions on what i should replace while I have the body off. Also do any of you know of a good around 3 inch suspension lift kit that would be a direct bolt on.
09-11-2013, 05:41 PM
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Not much has been getting done during the week since I am still in school and I play football. But I do little thing like I have been cleaning the rear diff down to bare metal. I have two questions for you guys on here one is what paint do you recommend for the diggs that will go on bare metal. Also what is a good 2-4 direct bolt on Suspinsion lift. If you have any ideas please tell me.
Thanks
Thanks
09-11-2013, 08:49 PM
#36
There is a paint called POR-15 and I have read it works really good. Also for a lift an old man emu will give you like 2 inches of lift. For a bigger lift you can go with a procomp 4 inch kit
09-12-2013, 04:07 AM
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I was looking at the old man lift but can't find one for an 85 only 86-89.
I will have to check the pro comp lift out. Thanks for the reply.
09-12-2013, 05:46 AM
#38
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I would suggest replacing the clutch while in there unless it was replaced fairly recently. OEM is what I would use. I will see if I can find where I bought my last one. Might take a while as it was online, but there is cheaper then the dealer.
For paint, I just use Rustoleum for myself. Seems to hold up well. POR gets great ratings, is fairly expensive but supposed to be great. You are getting it torn down and should be a sweet truck when completed and you can get all of the weak links out when coming back together.
For paint, I just use Rustoleum for myself. Seems to hold up well. POR gets great ratings, is fairly expensive but supposed to be great. You are getting it torn down and should be a sweet truck when completed and you can get all of the weak links out when coming back together.
09-12-2013, 02:46 PM
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I would suggest replacing the clutch while in there unless it was replaced fairly recently. OEM is what I would use. I will see if I can find where I bought my last one. Might take a while as it was online, but there is cheaper then the dealer.
For paint, I just use Rustoleum for myself. Seems to hold up well. POR gets great ratings, is fairly expensive but supposed to be great. You are getting it torn down and should be a sweet truck when completed and you can get all of the weak links out when coming back together.
For paint, I just use Rustoleum for myself. Seems to hold up well. POR gets great ratings, is fairly expensive but supposed to be great. You are getting it torn down and should be a sweet truck when completed and you can get all of the weak links out when coming back together.
09-12-2013, 06:20 PM
#40
No prob
