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According to the FSM rod thrust clearance maximum is 0.012". I am ranging from 0.010" to 0.013+". I pulled the worst one and see no wear on the rod and it still measures to spec. Would this indicate wear on the crankshaft?
Sounds like at the very least the thrust bearing surfaces that are part of the number three main bearing may be worn excessively. If those thrust bearings are “into the copper” when you pull connecting rods number two and three that will confirm they’re worn.
Such a nice truck already I’m excited to see your engine getting new life. X2 on the new pistons. It’s only money 🙂
Sounds like at the very least the thrust bearing surfaces that are part of the number three main bearing may be worn excessively. If those thrust bearings are “into the copper” when you pull connecting rods number two and three that will confirm they’re worn.
Such a nice truck already I’m excited to see your engine getting new life. X2 on the new pistons. It’s only money 🙂
It's only money, you're right 🙂
I should have time this weekend to dig deeper and look at the thrust bearings. I'll report back.
Maaaaan I'm glad I found this thread! I learned a ton and you have an awesome yota!! I'm working on desmogging my 79' 20R and installing a weber 32/36 & new manifold this week. Hopefully I can get it tuned and timed by the weekend
I went to Bud's Machine shop in Lakewood for a 22re rebuild. They machined the block, rebuilt the head, and assembled the short block when we did the rebuild. Overall their work was great. Would recommend replacing the rocker arm shafts too. There is wear on the shafts not visible unless they are removed.
Maaaaan I'm glad I found this thread! I learned a ton and you have an awesome yota!! I'm working on desmogging my 79' 20R and installing a weber 32/36 & new manifold this week. Hopefully I can get it tuned and timed by the weekend
Sweet rig! Looks clean! Thanks for the kind words. Yotatech is all about learning and sharing, it's a great resource.
Mid morning update. Rod bearings show wear (didn't bother to plastigauge as I will be replacing them). And as Enzo predicted the thrust washers are worn into the copper, rear side shows significantly more.
I dropped the head, crank, block, rods and valves off at the machine shop yesterday. Going to get the block cleaned up and bored. Crank polished. Head cleaned and a valve job. The pistons were collapsed by a few thous. So new piston are in order. Machinist recommended stock. Also since the block has been milled before, he suggested that I use a thicker head gasket to maintain correct piston height clearance. Anyone have suggestions?
Lce has a big selection of gaskets for decked blocks. Youll need to find the stock block height and ask your machinist to measure yours, then calculate gasket thickness off that.
While I wait for the machine shop I thought I would have a look at the transmission. I've had noise in all gears except 4th, 5th being the worst. I hope replacing the input bearing will correct the issue. I've wanted to do it for a while and told myself that next time the transmission was out I would. So here we are.
Bearing, gaskets, seals - anything else I should be doing while I'm in here?
I"m a firm believer in using only Toyota head gaskets. I"ve done a lot of head gasket jobs do to people using after market gaskets (say no to fel pro). However, guys I know and trust have said very good things about cometic head gaskets. They may be worth looking into. I know very little about them but I believe the head needs to be surfaced with a certain finish for the cometic gasket. You might also discuss the use of an adjustable cam gear with your machinist.
Last edited by toyoda addict; Jul 7, 2021 at 03:41 PM.
I"m a firm believer in using only Toyota head gaskets. I"ve done a lot of head gasket jobs do to people using after market gaskets (say no to fel pro). However, guys I know and trust have said very good things about cometic head gaskets. They may be worth looking into. I know very little about them but I believe the head needs to be surfaced with a certain finish for the cometic gasket. You might also discuss the use of an adjustable cam gear with your machinist.
Autosport Seattle out in Ballard. http://autosportseattle.com/ So far, so good. I dropped it off last week so they haven't started yet. They seem old school and knew various 22r specs from memory. This is a simple job for them. I called around to a bunch of shops including the ones recommended here and another group I belong to. Either they weren't taking on work right now or were booked at least six months out.
As far as head gaskets go, I will go with Toyota if possible. I talked to the machinist about the possibility of going with a cometic gasket-seemed fine to them. They can be made in various thicknesses-just takes time and money. First step will be to measure and see where things sit. The block has been machined and bored some time in the past.
Autosport Seattle out in Ballard. http://autosportseattle.com/ So far, so good. I dropped it off last week so they haven't started yet. They seem old school and knew various 22r specs from memory. This is a simple job for them. I called around to a bunch of shops including the ones recommended here and another group I belong to. Either they weren't taking on work right now or were booked at least six months out.
As far as head gaskets go, I will go with Toyota if possible. I talked to the machinist about the possibility of going with a cometic gasket-seemed fine to them. They can be made in various thicknesses-just takes time and money. First step will be to measure and see where things sit. The block has been machined and bored some time in the past.
Right on, hopefully all goes smooth. I always enjoy seeing the updates on this truck.
I got the new input bearing pressed on today. Installed new seals and gaskets and reassembled the transmission. On to the next challenge. I am attempting to install a sky offroad transfer case parking brake kit. However, it is not compatible with my front range offroad crossmember. The brake kit is intended to bolt right to the back of the TC. The crossmember is 3/8" thick causing the brake mechanism to not line up with the rotor. Anyone come up with a clever solution to this problem? I've been staring at this for a while and best I can come up with is to cut the bracket apart, remove 3/8" and weld it back together.
Pressing the new bearing on. Misaligned rotor and brake.
Well, after much waiting the parts came back from the machine shop. Bored, honed and surfaced the block, polished the crank, setup the new pistons, surfaced the head, lapped the valves and hot tanked everything. Next step is to get the main and rod bearings in place and get the head gasket sorted out.
Jun 15, 2021 | 05:35 PM
